@Erik C Lindgren posted:Cool 3/4 3600 prototype SP dome built by the guys at Bayshore Car Foundry (Mike Mangini and Bill Brisko).
http://bayshorecarandfoundry.com
If you are at the Chicago Meet or O Scale West I'll tell you a story about that.
@Erik C Lindgren posted:Changing the subject entirely; Scott is THE MIRACLE WORKER. Dear gawd look at this. I was investigating doing some upgrades. Painting the seats etc to correct shades and level of interior on this model is easily on par with my Euro Modelle pieces from Switzerland. This car is absolutely gorgeous in so many ways. Wow Scott. Wow.
Wow indeed. But, @Erik C Lindgren, have you worked out how to remove the body shell to get at the interior? I am not sure exactly how it is fixed to the frame. There are 8 small screws on the underside of the frame that might be the fasteners, but they don't look to me to be in the right place(s) for that purpose.
Also, I am not sure that the ends of the car come off, so I have assumed that the shell is affixed to the frame like most 3rd Rail tenders, which have a one piece body.
@Hancock52 posted:Wow indeed. But, @Erik C Lindgren, have you worked out how to remove the body shell to get at the interior? I am not sure exactly how it is fixed to the frame. There are 8 small screws on the underside of the frame that might be the fasteners, but they don't look to me to be in the right place(s) for that purpose.
Also, I am not sure that the ends of the car come off, so I have assumed that the shell is affixed to the frame like most 3rd Rail tenders, which have a one piece body.
Pretty much all GGD aluminum cars the bottom slides out from the ends after the ends are removed. And not easily. It is usually a tight fit so the floor doesn't slide easily. Also, the interior elements tend to catch on things fixed to the interior like the lighting bar. You will probably need a block of wood to place against the floor ends. to minimize damage when whacking the end with a hammer to slide it. There are two screws on the bottom of the ends that keep them attached. They are also usually a snug fit and they may have things attached to them, like lights, so they have to be wiggled out slowly.
@rdunniii posted:Pretty much all GGD aluminum cars the bottom slides out from the ends after the ends are removed. And not easily. It is usually a tight fit so the floor doesn't slide easily. Also, the interior elements tend to catch on things fixed to the interior like the lighting bar. You will probably need a block of wood to place against the floor ends. to minimize damage when whacking the end with a hammer to slide it. There are two screws on the bottom of the ends that keep them attached. They are also usually a snug fit and they may have things attached to them, like lights, so they have to be wiggled out slowly.
Thanks. I can see that with aluminum cars, where the body extrusion has U-shaped channels in the sides for the stamped metal frame to slide into. This is actually the same as Lionel and K-Line scale aluminum cars, which I have taken apart and reassembled numerous times. You also have to detach the trucks to avoid snagging on skirting where the model has any. But these models are brass and I thought the design looked substantially different.
And yeah, taking out the frame with the interior assembly attached to it is no easy feat. A shot of WD40 in the U channel helps. But again, with a brass construct, I wonder if it was made to minimize assembly effort at the factory.
In due course I’ll ask Scott if no one has already done a disassembly of one of these dome cars. (Years ago he was able to guide me through taking the body shell off a 3rd Rail brass steamer, which is somewhat more involved than taking apart most die cast models.)
The recent Viewliners were much easier to take apart than part cars. Haven't tried these yet.
@Erik C Lindgren posted:I would love to hear it. Doubtful I'll make it out though.
Changing the subject entirely; Scott is THE MIRACLE WORKER. Dear gawd look at this. I was investigating doing some upgrades. Painting the seats etc to correct shades and level of interior on this model is easily on par with my Euro Modelle pieces from Switzerland. This car is absolutely gorgeous in so many ways. Wow Scott. Wow.
Check out the trim around the dome ends inside.
The model ☝️ and the prototype :
Mind blown! 🤯
The new bar has been set. I sort of feel bad for Roger Lewis, his job just got a little bit harder on the CZ. 🤭
PS: yeah, the cup holders are spot on. 👍😊
In the modern vernacular: "That's just sick!"
Phenomenal, indeed.
Some quick pics of the amtrak
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Wishing I had the funds to add this to my fleet now. These cars turned out fabulous!
@Dj'sOgaugetrains posted:
Some quick pics of the amtrak
Yes absolutely beautiful !!!! The comparable SP silver/red stripe model was done with side ribbing. It would be Nice if we also could eventually get the SP silver/red WITHOUT the ribbing. Anyone regret Not picking up one/some of these domes ??? Email Scott and let him know you are sore from fence sitting but would step up for a run 2 !!!
And Perhaps Scott might also consider offering a SP smooth sided articulated 2 car offering (aluminum).
Emails get attention !!! 😜
Cheers !!! 🙂
So, did you ask Scott about SP silver without the ribbing? Brass models require a lower livery minimum than aluminum to get them done.
2-car smooth sided articulated what?
All these requests should have been submitted months ago.
Will there be a round 3? This round 2 (with the dome) was a decade after round 1 so extrapolate accordingly.
Never hurts to ask!
a short encore run with articulated silver/ red coaches & single cars plus the smooth silver SP dome might get enough orders. I would love a set or two of silver articulated cars. I have one of each SP, I haven’t unboxed my silver & yellow domes yet
@rdunniii posted:So, did you ask Scott about SP silver without the ribbing? Brass models require a lower livery minimum than aluminum to get them done.
2-car smooth sided articulated what?
All these requests should have been submitted months ago.
Will there be a round 3? This round 2 (with the dome) was a decade after round 1 so extrapolate accordingly.
As Soon as Scott posted Daylight run 2, I emailed him about adding all the domes - including Even long shots CP and KCS (Panama Canal RR). I figured with luck we Might get 2 or 3 examples. Wow !!! Was I surprised !!! 5 options !!! The silver and red example/picture shown WAS the SMOOTH sided version. I thought Great !!! Nice match to the smooth “finish set” that I Have !!!! No need to petition. We’ll surprise surprise the ribbed sided version was done. I’m FINE with that !!! I’d still like a smooth sided version !!!! These brass cars don’t Need the big numbers to “fly” like the aluminum or plastic car do. So Why Not another short run of these brass cars ??? Now that Everyone has seen these BEAUTIES, Why Not ??? I bet the fence sitters will finally get off the fence and will line up - and others will too
My previous comment on a two car articulated car was perhaps an incomplete comment. Let me try again here.
Perhaps Scott could off a SP smooth sided red with silver stripe 2 car articulated chair car/coach. This is a later day recycling of the Daylight 2 Car Articulated chair/coach with the ribbing removed because of corrosion problems. Oh !!! While I’m at it !!! Why don’t we see if we can add a silver with red/stripe Smooth Sided 3 Car Articulate kitchen - dining complex !!!!!!!!! Do them Both at the same time !!!!
So. What do you think folks ????
A SP dome rerun With an added silver with red stripe smooth version, A run of SP silver with red stripe SMOOTH Sided 2 car articulated, 3 car articulated cars. We don’t always need to be buying 8 car sets !!!!!
Email Scott !!! Let’s see if there’s support for this. The SP O gauger base is probably the largest group of buyers out there. I can see them jumping all over this !!! I don’t think this would take that long to fly. If I’m on the money about this - nice. If this falls flat - no biggie. We still have lots of toys.
Cheers !!!!!!
Well, I have emailed Scott - not about the (to me) arcane variations described above, but instead (a) making the original shorter #3600 10 window dome and (b) how to remove the body shell on this run, to get access to the interior that really offers great potential for extra historical/prototypical detailing. I am confident he'll eventually make another run of these some day but I hope it's not 10 years, which not all of us may have left!
Hi folks, I'm so glad those that ordered these are happy. Since the SP Daylights were a 3rd run for us, and we have almost no stand-by orders for a 3rd run and still some cars and sets in stock, I think we have filled this market as much as one can. I thank all of you that bought these to make this a successful project. Since our builders have limited time and resources to make these projects, each project has to be big enough in quantity and total cost price for them to make ends meet during the production period. Same here. So it is doubtful we will pursue another rerun anytime soon as there just aren't enough customers left that want this kind of model at these prices.
I am hoping Mike Mangini and Bill Brisko will move forward with their unique production of the original and unique 3/4 Dome Car. We will not be doing that one.
So onward we go, in search of more projects that can meet our needs, your needs and the factories needs. That's how we keep this ball rolling.
Personally, I don't know how to take these cars apart, but it's usually just a screwdriver job. Pour 1 screwdriver with ice and then try all to take all the screws out of the bottom of the car before you finish your cocktail. The top should come off but you might have to take a nap during the procedure at some point. 
All kidding aside, it's not complicated.
I just was asked, "How many 2 rail and 3 rail 1948 20th Century cars do we want to make." by our Korean production Manager. So that means the clock is ticking on the closing of reservation for the 1948 20th Century project. Get your reservations in. We plan on making accordion style, magnetically attached diaphragms for this project as well.
Right now the factories are working on the EA/ E1 Diesels, 120 Ton Gondolas (almost done) and the Milwaukee Hiawatha 2.0. All of which will be delivered this Summer. Oh, and the Milwaukee EP3 electric, which may take a little longer.
We are awaiting design drawings from Korea for the SD40-2s so we can give them the corrections and painting and lettering information. So that project will be the next diesel. E5/E6 Run #2 Diesels perhaps just after that. Things are moving a little slower over there because we can't be there to supervise, streamline and push schedules, but from what I've seen QC is not suffering and we are still getting great quality models from them. We are so lucky to have such good people over there making these models for us, year after year.
With the slower production and delivery schedule and no ability to travel to Asia right now, I've found that I have ample time to pursue my hobby, R/C Planes. You can find me at the flying field of the "Livermore Flying Electrons" 2-3 days a week. I have about 10 planes now. I started by converting my 40 years old planes from the 1970s and 80s from gas to electric with my newly attained 3D Printing skills. When I brought these planes out there the guys would come over to see what I brought and say, "We haven't seen planes like these in 20 years..." I was instantly an old timer. I have since built and flown many of these planes, some are made of Balsa and Spruce, others I 3D Printed and glued together, others are newly acquired "Foamys". I can't tell you how much fun it is, but eventually everyone crashes something and either buys / builds it again or buys/builds something new. Too bad model trains last so long... Little to no recurring sales in model trains.
Here's a couple of pics for your enjoyment.
This is the Sig Kougar (Gray Colored Plane), a fast 40-60 size low wing pattern ship. Top speed so far, 103.7mph, then it crashed because of tail feather flutter and ran into a barbed wire fence at full speed, OUCH. But glued it back together, and here it is, flying again. The ceiling in my garage is where I display and gaze at my creations. It has given me new respect for modelers of all kinds. I share the same passions you do, just about planes, more than trains. In the garage pic there's an Airtronics OLY II, Electra, Carl Goldberg Falcon 56, Anniversary J3 Cub, Sig Kougar, new P38 foamy and in the left corner an Eclipson Model A, 3D Printed plane.
I finished the 3D Kougar, it's awesome and I will be assembling an Airbus 321, 3D Printed plane with 8 foot long fuselage over the next few months. Plenty to keep me busy while I wait for these models to arrive.
So to all of you, happy modeling and have a great summer.
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Pretty Cool Scott.
PS: Absolutely happy with this project. Bow and tip my hat dear sir. Standing applause. 👏👏👏👏
@Erik C Lindgren posted:Pretty Cool Scott.
PS: Absolutely happy with this project. Bow and tip my hat dear sir. Standing applause. 👏👏👏👏
Same here; thanks again. I'll report in after I try the cocktail approach - as they were put together they must come apart.
I wanted to add carpet so I tried the cocktail approach as well. Scott can I get an RA#?........... 🍹
jk.
but seriously these cars are stunning. Many many thank you’s for making this & so many other projects happen!
here’s my run 1 daylight with the 3/4 dome & sunset F3’s. Yes...... it’s a sin to run a set like this on the floor. However Plans are currently underway to build a real layout in my garage this coming summer.....
@Dj'sOgaugetrains posted:I wanted to add carpet so I tried the cocktail approach as well. Scott can I get an RA#?........... 🍹
jk.
but seriously these cars are stunning. Many many thank you’s for making this & so many other projects happen!
Have you actually tried it? I haven't - yet . . . I think we may have to start up a support group!
P.S. Nice video. I have about the same group of cars from this and an earlier run - also presently floor-bound as what passes for my train table is too small.
Have you actually tried it? I haven't - yet . . . I think we may have to start up a support group!
P.S. Nice video. I have about the same group of cars from this and an earlier run - also presently floor-bound as what passes for my train table is too small.
here is a link to a GGD silver meteor set I detailed & added carpet to the Sun Lounge car. I haven’t tried adding carpet to my domes yet but I definitely will soon. I used dollhouse carpets to do the lounge in the pictures. A support group would be great. soon as I get around to trying to open one of these cars I’ll post how..... the silver meteor cars were very easy. Just unscrew about 8 screws and the shell just lifts up off of the frame & floor. I’m thinking these domes may be similar in how they open.
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OK, you go first, and I’ll follow! The GGD domes also have 8 screws, but of itself that does not tell you anything. I agree that it would seem that the body should just lift up and off, but some of the seams in the interior assembly that I can see through the windows are so closely fitted that I wonder if they were glued in place during the assembly process. That might complicate matters.
I also have the Silver Meteor set, but have not thought about adding details like carpets, fabrics and more passengers. Yours looks great.
Wow spectacular
A bit off-topic, but Scott started it: Hey Scott - a proper Piper Cub lightning stripe looks like this! Graphics on both from Callie Graphics - she also did my Erie-Built cigar band and some red Sunset Limited stripes for my Budd cars.
Oops - mistake - the big one got stick-ons on the fin and rudder after this photo was taken.
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Spectacular Scott. Work of art. Thank you.
Scott:
How long do you recommend soaking the screwdriver in ice before it is ready to remove the screws from the bottom of the car ?
😆
@Ulus Ekerman posted:
Those cars are beautiful. It's a shame the diaphrams take away some of the "awesomeness".
T F S
Those are great buildings, did you make them? I assume that head unit is Premier?GS2
@Bigboyrich posted:Those are great buildings, did you make them? I assume that head unit is Premier?GS2
I don't know about those fantastic buildings but, I'm willing to bet that the steam locomotive model (NOT a 'head unit') is a high-end brass model, and NOT an MTH model. Note the 2-Rail SCALE track.
Wow - beautiful engine. I have that image of the "Noon Daylight" GS2 pulling out of San Francisco in 1946. Image came through on the email, looks like it was removed in the post.
Oops, sorry I was wrong..Still like the buildings.
@Erik C Lindgren posted:That’s funny, they removed photos of my models thinking they were prototype 😆🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ LOVE IT!
Well, there were some prototype photos. I remember seeing them.
WHY DO I WASTE MY TIME SHARING MY CONTENT ON HERE 😣 censored of my own intellectual property because they think it’s a real train photo. 🤭
Sorry you feel that way, but there were some photos of the prototypes.
@Erik C Lindgren Eric I hope you keep posting. I figured the 1946 image would get removed - I have a poster of that one so probably under copyright. Some of the black and white images look like prototypes and given the probable date taken, you are doing great if you were the photographer. It may help if you add you are the copyright holder or used by permission when you post those kind of images. I am surprised the entire post was pulled, but jut repost your images, they are worth sharing.
I assume the close-up of the engine running at speed is your model. Blurred image is great with stack smoke and piston steam trailing behind - looks like its running full out. My only clue is the engine looks too clean to be prototype. The two similar images in color and B&W are great too. I assume you used post processing to change from color to B&W. I have an Amtrak image taken in New Mexico crossing a spider bridge. My bro-in-law who is a rail photographer took his image on a Hasselblad with B&W film while I took mine on an Olympus with color film nearly simultaneously. Really interesting to see the image differences between what color and B&W film picks up.
@ScoutingDad posted:@Erik C Lindgren Eric I hope you keep posting. I figured the 1946 image would get removed - I have a poster of that one so probably under copyright. Some of the black and white images look like prototypes and given the probable date taken, you are doing great if you were the photographer. It may help if you add you are the copyright holder or used by permission when you post those kind of images. I am surprised the entire post was pulled, but jut repost your images, they are worth sharing.
I assume the close-up of the engine running at speed is your model. Blurred image is great with stack smoke and piston steam trailing behind - looks like its running full out. My only clue is the engine looks too clean to be prototype. The two similar images in color and B&W are great too. I assume you used post processing to change from color to B&W. I have an Amtrak image taken in New Mexico crossing a spider bridge. My bro-in-law who is a rail photographer took his image on a Hasselblad with B&W film while I took mine on an Olympus with color film nearly simultaneously. Really interesting to see the image differences between what color and B&W film picks up.
I’d love to see the two NM/Amtrak pictures. The differences are always intriguing !!!
@ScoutingDad posted:
Thanks. 🙂.
I went there - enjoyed and commented. 👍
Hello All— just received my set— does anyone have a picture of where the separately attached stirrups go? I believe it’s under the doors looks like a hole there and again on the end but doesn’t seem to line up— thanks!
