I like to scratch build stuff - particularly when I can't find exactly what I like in the shops.
People (including me 'till now), are put off making their own goose neck street lamps because of the perceived difficulty in bending the goose neck.
Anyway, here is my process. It's not necessarily for everyone, but it might create a spark for others to try.
Here is the stuff needed for my project . . .
Pretty much self evident. I included the rainbow wire, so everyone can see what I mean when I mention it.
There is the K&S pipe bending spring set, and a roll of 0.25 mm 30BS 26 gauge armature wire, which has a plastic coating for insulation.
I'm making eight lamps, so there are eight x 3 mm brass washers and eight 6 mm brass washers for the reflectors. There are eight 3 mm x 5000 mcd warm white super bright LEDs and eight 1 kΩ x 1.5 mm diameter resistors. The poles consist of eight 18 cm lengths of 2.0 mm OD x 0.45 wt (wall thickness) brass tubing and eight 6 cm lengths of 3.0 mm OD x 0.45 wt brass tubing.
The 2 mm tubing slides neatly into the 3 mm. You can see that I made four goose necks while I was developing the prototype, which has been painted green.
To make the bends, I heated the 2.0 mm brass tubing over the gas jet in my (wife's), kitchen. I started about 20 mm from the end and worked back towards the middle for about 6 cm; heating the brass until it began to turn red. It doesn't seem to matter whether you quench it or let it cool. Once it's cold, it bends nicely in the spring.
Then I cut the bends, allowing for the LEDs to form part of the curve, and then chamfered the ends.
I cut the legs off the LEDs like this . . . The (+) long leg I cut off just below the crimp mark, so it left about 3 mm. Then I cut the (-) short leg off half as long. Although the LEDs come tinned from the shop, I always tin them myself as well.
Then I filed the inside of the curve at the end to brighten it and tinned that as well.
Holding the LED in needle pliers, I soldered the long leg to the inside of the curve, and then pushed about 150 mm of the armature wire up the tubing until it appeared in the gap at the end.
The end of the armature wire needs to be tinned as well, for about 1.0 mm. To tin the wire, simply make a blob of solder on the tip of your iron and plunge the end of the armature wire into it. The heat from the solder will melt the plastic coating and the solder will adhere to the wire. It will look silver for about 1.0 mm if you have been successful.
Here you can see the result of all that verbage above. 
The long leg is fixed solidly to the tube and once it is encased, nothing will move.
At this point I connect 3.0 Volts DC (-) to the end of the wire and the (+) lead to the brass tube. Test as you go. Very important.
Here you can see the end of the armature wire protruding from the bottom of the 2.0 mm tube. I've soldered the resistor to it and soldered about 40 cm of black (brown is next to the red in the rainbow wire, so it will do), rainbow wire; to the other side of the resistor. The bare ends shouldn't be able to touch the inside of the 3.0 mm tube, but I always put PVA on them just to be sure.
Test again. This time using 12 Volts.
At this point you can turn the lamp upside down and fit the reflector (washers).
The 3.0 mm washers fit nicely over the LED. Then I just sit the 6.0 mm washers on top and slide them around until they are central. Then I drop one large drop of CA on to the end of the LED. The CA will flow down and wick between the washers and between the washers and the LED.
Give it a good twenty minutes to set up before you touch it.
This is one of the 6 cm lengths of 3.0 mm tubing I intend to use for the bottom section of the pole. I have taken a diamond Dremel wheel and cut a slot in the end of it. This is tinned and a 40 cm length of red rainbow wire is soldered into the slot.
Once it is filed off, the pole will fit neatly into its hole in the baseboard without jamming on the soldered joint.
If you've done it neatly the black/brown wire will pass it OK.
Another shot of the washers being glued on. It also shows the development of the construction.
Now the 3.0 mm tube has been slipped over the brown/black wire and is being offered up to the 2.0 mm tube.
. . . and soldered in place. The overlap will be down to your individual preference, so long as the resistor is safe inside.
A piece of shrink tubing is installed to anchor the red wire to its mate.
Using a Fine Tip Applicator (my most favourite tool), I filled in the space around the connections on top of the LED with PVA, which encases it and provides a fair moulding for the head of the lamp. It will take about an hour to set up.
Here is the lamp prior to painting . . .
Using a piece of 3.0 mm shrink tube for masking the LED, the whole thing is sprayed with grey etch primer. Now you can see the light showing through the top of the LED. It will take a couple of coats of flat back to shut the light in, but it must be done before the final colour is applied.
I'm happy with that. 
