Heavy or Light Bench Work

My framing is 1 x 4 with a 1 x 2 L girder.  1 x 2 lumber - even select grade - is too warped to use by itself.  The screws I use to hold my L girders together unwarp the 1 x 2.

I used the Mianne benchwork as a base, then built on top of it.

I built my benchwork mostly out of 2x4 lumber and I don't at all regret doing so: the structure is solid and heavy, and over the last 20 years there has not been any distortion or movement in the track. I liken it to building a very solid foundation for a house so that the walls don't crack and the doors continue to close nicely. A bonus was that 2x4s were a lot less expensive than good quality 1x 4 or 1x6 boards.

Following... I'm getting ready to build benchwork.I have just purchased 2x4's for a fence project. Wood is nice and straight.

Richard

Another bonus of the 2x4s: Now that I am getting older and less agile, which makes it harder to crawl around under the benchwork without banging into something, I only suffer a mild concussion when I smash my head into a 2x4 joist, instead of messing things up topside!!

My entire layout is L girder construction. 1x4s, 1x2s for the girders. For the legs I purchased a laminated beam (2x12x8) and ripped it on a table saw. I can't remember the thickness of the beam (1.875?) but I cut the legs to be square, there is absolutely no warping.  My longest span is approximately 20'. It only has four legs and is plenty strong enough for the task.

If you're looking for lumber at the big box stores, try using a local lumber yard instead. Chances are the lumber is a lot straighter, no matter the dimension, and the cost is typically negligible.

Not sure why you would want to use just Homasote sheeting as your only tabletop. That requires a lot of extra work to install bracing. Why not just use 1/2" plywood and lay the Homasote on top of that. 

My layout was built using L-girder construction. This was the first time building a layout with this method. I used 1x4s with 1x2s to make the girders with 1x2 cross braces. The joists are all 1x4s, except where the O gauge portion of the layout goes over the standard gauge portion. There I used 1x3s. and box type construction. The legs are all 2x3s bolted to the framework.

On top for the standard gauge part, I used 1/2" plywood with Homasote on top. This is plenty strong. I climb up and stand on it all the time. The O gauge portion just utilizes 1/2" plywood sub-roadbed.

Don't buy lumber from the big box stores. You will drive yourself crazy. Find a lumber yard and get it there. It still won't be perfect but it will be a lot better. Also, based on how L-girder layouts are construction, slightly bent lumber can easily be brought back into shape during construction.

Yeah, there's a lot of ways to skin a cat, as others have already illustrated.

I think the first question you have to answer is, what are your plans for your layout? Is it going to be a permanent installation, which will only need to be moved or disassembled rarely or far in the future, if ever. Generally, the lighter and cheaper the better IMHO, but it will need to be strong enough to move (perhaps with rollers or levelers on the leg bottoms, for mobility or adjustment) and with bolt-on legs and/or sections for easy disassembly, if there's any possibility of future change.

As to leg and frame material, I used 1 X 3s for both in my 8 foot by 8 foot main layout, with legs bolted to the two-section framing with wing nuts, for easy disassembly (ditto between the two sections), and levelers at the bottom, since it resides on an uneven concrete slab floor. By contrast, when I decided to elevate my old around-the tree seasonal floor layout and use it as a test platform, the original 2 X 4 frame was quite a bit heavier, so I opted for 2 X 3s for legs, bolted to the frame with rollers on the bottom since the layout needed to be easily moveable.

If you fail to find 1 X 3s or 1 X 4s of sufficient quality, consider ripping 2 X 4s lengthwise, to create 2 X 2s for legs. Properly secured in the frame, they have plenty of compression strength and even enough resistance to flexing to allow the layout to be rolled or moved IMHO.  Good luck!

L Girder construction using 1x4's for framing, legs and risers for grades. Sub-roadbed is 1/2 inch A-C plywood. No Homasote. Midwest cork roadbed under Gargraves Phantom rail track, Ross Custom switches, and Tortoise switch machines. 37 years old and still going strong. No need for 2x4's. Legs are two 1x4's at right angles. Buy Linn Westcott's book on L Girder construction. Find it on Amazon.

I used 2x3 construction and 1/2 inch plywood on top.

Traditional

I knew my layout would have to support me at times (too often).  I built the frame with 2x4's.  Because I had it on hand, I covered the deck with 1x6's.  I placed my original 4x8 plywood layout on top of that.

Yes, overkill is your friend.

Use what you need to do the job.  After all most of it will not be seen and this is one place to look to save a little money and buy more trains and gear.

My layout was to be portable, made in two sections to allow being moved, on the floor and have a recessed turntable pit.  That required 1 x 6 inch  lumber for framing the outside perimeter and 1x 4 cross braces.  It was covered with 1 inch recessed, 3/4 inch bagasse particle board (made from sugar cane residue) as that is what I had access to in Jamaica.  It is plenty strong and heavy and wooden 6 inch diameter wheels were installed on some board edges to allow me to move it around by my self.

It was build to allow expansion (which was done to make and L layout) and is now installed on legs, to be a permanent layout, and is now 44 years old.

Charlie

Here's an alternative method - not plywood and lumber. I respect hobbyists who choose to "overbuild" benchwork, but I didn't need that much strength.

I used standard hollow-core 36-inch wide doors as the platforms with each panel by supported by two plastic SKIL sawhorses held in position with quarter-round guides on the underside.  Admittedly, not strong enough to walk on, but it provides sufficient strength for tracks, trains, accessories, structures, and such. I pugged the doorknob hole in each door.

I spliced another foot onto each door to produce platforms 48-inches wide. That's the max width possible in my train room  while providing walk-around aisles. That width accommodates 42-inch curves of Lionel tubular track -- sufficient for many of my locos, although my trains that require large curvatures must "rest in place" on wall shelves.

I covered the platforms with green patio carpeting as a scenic effect -- and perhaps provide some sound deadening. I don't require "silent running" of trains. After all, real trains aren't quiet running along the rails. The upper level rests on 1x12 white laminate-covered boards supported by MTH Elevated Trestles. It's the "Christmas division."

My home layout is placed in an L-shaped home office created by the former owner -- a draftsman. That room is all I had to work with. In central Arkansas there are few basements and the attic of our ranch-style house isn't very tall. So my trains must work and play within those boundaries.

Layout diagrams are attached, plus some pics.

Mike Mottler   LCCA 12394

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I used the Mianne benchwork as a base, then built on top of it.

I am in the same situation as the OP trying to figure out what to do.

My previous layout was built in 1994 and was moved in 1998 (across town) and torn down in 2017.  I took the 2x4 approach.  It served me well.  It was built for HO, but easily would have supported O and possible full scale equipment (just kidding, I guess?).  When I moved it, and tore it down, said to myself going to take a lighter approach next time.

I was at Amherst this past Saturday and got to see Mianne up close and personal.  It is great, although being so darn cheap I was looking for alternatives.

Anyhow....A guy from one of the clubs was displaying his handiwork.  I said "where did you get the plans for this construction?"  He said "One of the other clubs had developed it, and I just followed their lead".  He said "Take all the pictures you want".

He told me to use 1/2" Birch Plywood, it works the best.

Be sure to use gussets.

Clamp everything together and use lots of Weldwood.

This is designed to be a "portable" layout.  Note the alignment peg in photo 5.  Anyhow what do you guys think?  Have any of you done something similar?  Do any of you know what club in MA or CT developed this?  Did someone create a construction manual?

Not sure if this helps, or just confuses the OP?

I just finished the new benchwork for what will probably be my last layout.I am already 74, just had knee surgery, and figured I would never climb on top of the layout again. I also went as cheap as I thought possible, without surrendering some basic.  strength. mY framework consists of about 6 large sections all screwed together. Framework is 1x4, with a couple of small areas where I used 1x3's, which I already had on hand. Cross bracing is every 12" for the most part. I know, this is probably overkill, but I did find a lot of good 1x4's on sale at Lowes. The legs are a mixture of 2x2 and 2x4, depending on how large an area they are supporting. I can easily add some 2x2 legs if I see an area starting to sag. I used 3/8" exterior plywood for the top. Have never gone this thin before, but weight was a big factor. This is all topped by a layer of 1/2" Homasote,( which I will never use again due to weight}. Lowes will let you sort through their stacks for good straight wood. I spent almost 1/2 day picking and sorting their 1x4's, 2x2's and 2x4's. I even had them cut the straps on a couple of bundles of 1x4's so I could find nice straight, knot-free wood. I bet they were glad to see me go, but I got really nice wood by taking the time to do that.

My layout is in my basement and I try to keep the dehumidifier set around 50. I believe this layout will hold up pretty well. If not, then it will look like a typical underfunded shortline with dips and sags everywhere. Time will tell.

Jeff

Mine is ugly underneath and pieced together.  I keep it under 36” so I minimize crawling on it.

Braces along the walls since my layout is primarily along the walls, and scrap lumber from pallets.  2x3’s are just as good as 2x4’s.  I already had one piece of 3/4” plywood from our childhood layout so I bought a second to match it on the lower level.  Upper level will have 1/2” and more foam.

For my layout, started by making 8x3 frames using 1x4s with a 1/2” MDF top and 2x4s for the legs. The leg height is 48” so it was easy to get underneath. The 3’ depth also allows me to reach to the furthest part of the table without needing a step stool. As the layout took shape, I made angled frames to connect the tables together.

My layouts are seasonal and modular, so a future "permanent" layout will be assembled from modules.  I have helped disassemble a couple of fixed layouts and there are lessons learned.  First, we age and may need to downsize or move, or worse yet, our survivors are faced with selling a house and have to remove the layout.  (Home buyers do not appreciate an existing installed layout.)  I can attest that a layout built "heavy duty" by a framing carpenter following building code is a major PITA to pull apart.  My Sawsall worked overtime and I smoked a drill removing hundreds of 3" coated screws.  Forget about salvaging anything useful.  So, plan ahead for eventual disassembly and removal of the layout using a modular design approach.

Modules or sections ...

I have lightweight modules that travel several times a year to club events.  1x3 and 1x4 framing, 1-3/8" legs.  1/4" to 1/2" decks.  These are quite suitable to assemble in a fixed layout and I may do so in the future.  Deck sizes start at 2ft x 4ft up to 4ft x 4ft. turntable.  (I have a couple of 3ft x 7 ft modules that are retired as too heavy).  I have walked on top of my modules with 1/2" decks.

I also have a set of tables built from 2x4s and 5/8" decks that were used once a year for a multi-day event with extended setup and teardown days.  These are 4ft by 4ft and supported by 2x4 legs.  Heavy, and two persons are needed to move these.  The ply is supported by the edge frame without interior braces.  Very stiff and walkable decks which supported additional layout levels on top.  If 1/2" ply were used, I would add interior 1x3 braces.  These 4ft square tables are simple to build and appropriate for assembling a permanent layout.  The 4x4 is the max section size I would consider for a permanent layout if the site involves stairs for access.

I have seen sawhorses with stringers supporting layout decks.  Fast and simple construction.   A friend builds a seasonal layout using a layer of Homosote on top of the stringers and covers the deck with quilt insulation for a white snow village base.  With the stringers spaced close enough, the Homosote doesn't sag.

I have a "Time Saver" switching layout built with 1-1/2" foam modules supported by adjustable height folding tables.   I edge the foam with 1x2s.  My largest rigid foam module size of 32" x 72" is light and easily handled.

So after several decades module-based layouts and several moves, I still have most of my modules stacked in storage available to use if I choose to build the next grand layout.  If I had built permanent benchwork similar to the layouts I disassembled, I would have filled a few dumpsters with scrap at my moves.

An interesting thread about how layout builders use materials best for their situation. My medium-sized layout was built over 12 years ago and I’ve never had any problems with its construction or materials.

It consists simply of 2 4 x 8 and 1 4 x 6 tables built from scratch and arranged in a backward “J.” I used 2 x 4s for the legs and bracing, because they were straight and inexpensive. Then 1/2” thick plywood for the deck (3/4” is overkill and more difficult to cut). Then I put 1/2” Homasote on top of that for sound suppression and painted all of it white, because it’s a winter-themed layout.

Then, I found some white facia boards at Home Depot, cut them to length, and installed them. Wifie had several yards of red skirting which she donated to the layout, so we heavy-duty stapled the skirting to the back of the facia boards for that finished look. We enjoyed doing it and it’s a sturdily-built layout you could dance on, although I’ve never had to do that. 😉

@Tracker John posted:

My layouts are seasonal and modular, so a future "permanent" layout will be assembled from modules.  I have helped disassemble a couple of fixed layouts and there are lessons learned.  First, we age and may need to downsize or move, or worse yet, our survivors are faced with selling a house and have to remove the layout.  (Home buyers do not appreciate an existing installed layout.)  I can attest that a layout built "heavy duty" by a framing carpenter following building code is a major PITA to pull apart.  My Sawsall worked overtime and I smoked a drill removing hundreds of 3" coated screws.  Forget about salvaging anything useful.  So, plan ahead for eventual disassembly and removal of the layout using a modular design approach.

Modules or sections ...

I have a "Time Saver" switching layout built with 1-1/2" foam modules supported by adjustable height folding tables.   I edge the foam with 1x2s.  My largest rigid foam module size of 32" x 72" is light and easily handled.

Thanks for the insight into your different modules.  If you could post some pictures it would be helpful.  (You know the old saying about 1 picture).

I have thought about Rigid Foam Table Top construction, but was wondering how it would work out?  Lots of pluses: light weight, warp resistant, seems like it would be quieter than a wood top, my biggest concern was wiring.   What did you use between the track (type of track?) and the foam (cork roadbed, or nothing)?  Any description (including pictures) of what you did would be most appreciated.  Thank you!

I went overbuilt, mainly because of the materials I found.  Got a deal on hollow core doors, office cabinets, and recycled porch columns from a habitat store.  Added some 4x4 cutoffs and plywood scraps from an old projects laying around. I now have a table you can stand on for very little investment.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I used the Mianne benchwork as a base, then built on top of it.

Ditto for several earlier layouts and for the currently-under-construction all-tinplate layout I am building. I am a big fan of those Mianne components, which are extremely easy (actually fun) to work with and, if necessary, change or dismantle and use again. I use 1/2" (or close to it) plywood on top and use extruded Polystyrene sheets or pieces for scenic features such as mountains, valleys, etc.

Yes, the Mianne foundation benchwork is probably the best and easiest to put together. However, it's super-expensive. I didn't mind doing my own custom designing, cutting, drilling, and sanding. If I ever build another layout, which is highly unlikely, I would use Mianne just for the experience.  

Re: foam core layout ... my switching layout is a Fastrack carpet central implementation that is tabletop and designed to travel.  All the switches, sensor tracks, and other stuff with wiring is on a single 75" long module built from 1-1/2" foam edged with 1x2s.  The ends of this module sit on folding tables and the middle is unsupported.  It is very rigid.  A layer of carpet is stapled to the wood frames.  I may add a layer of underfloor noise supression and glue the whole sandwich together.  I considered drilling holes for wires and routing grooves on the underside of the foam for wire runs, but since I may adjust the track plan, I'm leaving all the wires on the surface.  I found a Cable Raceway Kit on the river that mounts nicely on the module edge and deals with wiring clutter.

The 1-1/2" wood frames are glued to the edge of the foam.  For this build , I used Gorilla clear glue and it appears to have bonded well to the foam.  Years ago, I used yellow carpenters glue and pinned the frames to the foam with 3" drywall screws.  The green painted frame in one of the photos is a section repurposed from one of the 30yr-old modules and the wood edges remained glued during the cutting and trimming.

@Tracker John posted:

Re: foam core layout ... my switching layout is a Fastrack carpet central implementation that is tabletop and designed to travel.

John - Thank you very much!  The description and photos are very helpful.

My first layout was 28' x 40' using Mianne Benchwork. Tim Foley designed the benchwork to fit the track plan I had made. A few years ago, the layout came down as well as the benchwork to be replaced by a 22' x 30' layout. Gave Tim my new track plan and he again designed the benchwork using just about all of the benchwork from the previous layout. My wife and I assembled the benchwork for this layout in 18 hours. No power tools were used unless you call a #3 Phillips screwdriver a power tool. No sawdust was produced. Zero trips to the lumber yard for wood and zero trips to the hardware store for fasteners was made.

@Cape Cod Northern posted:

My first layout was 28' x 40' using Mianne Benchwork. Tim Foley designed the benchwork to fit the track plan I had made. A few years ago, the layout came down as well as the benchwork to be replaced by a 22' x 30' layout. Gave Tim my new track plan and he again designed the benchwork using just about all of the benchwork from the previous layout. My wife and I assembled the benchwork for this layout in 18 hours. No power tools were used unless you call a #3 Phillips screwdriver a power tool. No sawdust was produced. Zero trips to the lumber yard for wood and zero trips to the hardware store for fasteners was made.

Pretty darn good stuff, isn't it? Until I first tried Mianne benchwork a number of years ago, you never would have been able to convince me that benchwork construction could be easy and fun (and clean).

I have to admit that for the longest time, I was not a fan of pre-built benchwork.  My grandfather was a carpenter, cabinet maker, and wooden ship builder.  But as I get older and time becomes more critical, I have changed my mind.  Yeah, it's not cheap.  But it is a lot less important as compared to getting trains running.  I am very happy with my own benchwork and it truly meets all my needs, but it has been time-consuming to construct.  And the cost issue becomes much less critical given the rising cost of quality lumber. 

Definitely worth a re-think for those who are "carpentry challenged" or pressed for time.

George

@NJCJOE posted:

My layout was built using L-girder construction. This was the first time building a layout with this method. I used 1x4s with 1x2s to make the girders with 1x2 cross braces. The joists are all 1x4s, except where the O gauge portion of the layout goes over the standard gauge portion. There I used 1x3s. and box type construction. The legs are all 2x3s bolted to the framework.

On top for the standard gauge part, I used 1/2" plywood with Homasote on top. This is plenty strong. I climb up and stand on it all the time. The O gauge portion just utilizes 1/2" plywood sub-roadbed.

Don't buy lumber from the big box stores. You will drive yourself crazy. Find a lumber yard and get it there. It still won't be perfect but it will be a lot better. Also, based on how L-girder layouts are construction, slightly bent lumber can easily be brought back into shape during construction.

...

Excellent use of materials - enough but not too much.  My benchwork is similar.  In addition to holding up well, it is quick to build and relatively easy to disassemble, and many of the components can be reused.  I've reconfigured my layouts multiple times, and I'm still using pieces and parts from 35 years ago.

I agree that finding straight pieces can be challenging, and I like the suggestion of using a "real" lumberyard.  I'll check that out if I do a major rebuild. 

L-girder has been a staple in the model railroad world for over 50 years - I'm always puzzled that more O-gauge folks don't use it. 

@triplex posted:

L Girder construction using 1x4's for framing, legs and risers for grades. Sub-roadbed is 1/2 inch A-C plywood. No Homasote. Midwest cork roadbed under Gargraves Phantom rail track, Ross Custom switches, and Tortoise switch machines. 37 years old and still going strong. No need for 2x4's. Legs are two 1x4's at right angles. Buy Linn Westcott's book on L Girder construction. Find it on Amazon.

Yes, the book I followed was the same one: Linn Westcott's book on benchwork. Followed it to the letter, can't go wrong with that.

@Mallard4468 posted:

L-girder has been a staple in the model railroad world for over 50 years - I'm always puzzled that more O-gauge folks don't use it.

I think the answer is fairly simple: cost and complexity.

Most L-girder pieces I've seen basically double the board feet of lumber needed to span a given length, using two lengths of dimension lumber at right angles,  joined together at one edge. Sure, the result is stronger and more dimensionally stable than a single board, but if you really *need* the extra dimensional rigidity and strength, it'll probably be easier and cheaper to use a single length of 2 X 3 or  2 X 4 lumber. Sure, the resulting structural member will be a bit heavier, but so will your wallet! Plus, that's one less joint you'll have to glue and screw together before incorporating it into the layout structure.

I appreciate the elegance of the Mianne structures, and the homebrew versions that emulate their emphasis on lightness and strength, but sometimes plain old overbuilding is the easiest path, one that can be just as effective in the long run. YMMV . . .

If you are thinking about grades on your layout the easiest way to build them is with L Girder construction. The graduated risers are easily attached to the vertical part of each L girder. They also make it easy to do scenery as plastic screening can be easily stapled to the risers. Of all the features on my 37 year old layout that still provokes the most interest is the varying levels of tracks and the hidden storage yards that a multi-level layout allows. A flat level layout is OK, but a graded layout can be spectacular. Remember, 1x4's and 1/2 inch A-C plywood. No glue, everything held together with drywall screws.

@Steve Tyler posted:

I think the answer is fairly simple: cost and complexity.

Most L-girder pieces I've seen basically double the board feet of lumber needed to span a given length, using two lengths of dimension lumber at right angles,  joined together at one edge. Sure, the result is stronger and more dimensionally stable than a single board, but if you really *need* the extra dimensional rigidity and strength, it'll probably be easier and cheaper to use a single length of 2 X 3 or  2 X 4 lumber. Sure, the resulting structural member will be a bit heavier, but so will your wallet! Plus, that's one less joint you'll have to glue and screw together before incorporating it into the layout structure.

I appreciate the elegance of the Mianne structures, and the homebrew versions that emulate their emphasis on lightness and strength, but sometimes plain old overbuilding is the easiest path, one that can be just as effective in the long run. YMMV . . .

With all due respect, I think you're either looking at it backwards or perhaps you've seen some bad L-girder (@NJCJOE's is textbook perfect).  The L-girders actually use LESS lumber and are extremely stable - a 1x4 and 1x2 glued and screwed together keep each other straight and strong, and you can support a 12 foot wide span (maybe more)  with just 2 of them running the perpendicular length - way cheaper and stronger than 2x4s.  And it's fast and simple - I assembled my 16x20 benchwork in about 16-20 hours of actual work - took a few days between things like waiting for the glue to dry and having a job.  (The L-girders are the only glued parts; everything else is just screwed.)

@Mallard4468 posted:

With all due respect, I think you're either looking at it backwards or perhaps you've seen some bad L-girder (@NJCJOE's is textbook perfect).  The L-girders actually use LESS lumber and are extremely stable - a 1x4 and 1x2 glued and screwed together keep each other straight and strong, and you can support a 12 foot wide span (maybe more)  with just 2 of them running the perpendicular length - way cheaper and stronger than 2x4s.  And it's fast and simple - I assembled my 16x20 benchwork in about 16-20 hours of actual work - took a few days between things like waiting for the glue to dry and having a job.  (The L-girders are the only glued parts; everything else is just screwed.)

With all due respect, I stand by what I said.

I just peeked into the Home Depot website, and they listed "prime" quality eight-foot 2X4s at $3.35 each. By contrast, "premium" quality 1 X 4s of the same size are listed at $8.87 each, while "select" quality 1 X 2s of comparable length are listed at $7.68., for a total lumber cost of $16.55, more than four times the cost of a 2 X 4. I suppose you could rip the 1 X 4s down into two 1 X 2s, but that is still $13.30 compared to $3.35.

Moreover, you are only saving roughly one-quarter of the wood in a 2 X 4 by using a 1 X 4 and a 1 X 2 instead, at the cost of having to buy *two* boards for each span (O.K. one and one-half, if you decide to rip a 1 X 4 down!). Moreover, the extra strength of the L-beam girder is mostly the increase in height from putting the 1 X 2 under the end of the 1 X 4 (effectively making it a 1 X 5), together with the 1 X 2 resisting sidewise twisting and deforming forces on the 1 X 4 (similar in effect to the top and bottom flanges on an I-beam). So, yes, the fabricated L-beam may be a bit stronger and lighter than a comparable 2 X 4, but I have yet to see non-industrial scale layouts that require a 12-foot span (and if they did, a 2 X 6 or laminated beam would do just fine).

Look, you build as you see fit -- I was just providing one possible answer to the question posed, and I see nothing in your response that falsified anything I said.

This is what you can do with L-Girder construction:

My new layout will use Mianne Benchwork, too. I just placed the order, and my benchwork will arrive later this month.