height of second level

Are you building a layout that is around the wall? Or is this a table top layout?

I built my double decked layout using shelf brackets. the second deck is 23 inches above the lower deck.

 

I really long for a trestle set, fairly inexpensive, that will span existing track...like an elevated trestle. The available spans like that cost way too much...like $10 each or so...when a trestle set by say MTH is about $50 for a whole set. But they are solid and don't span track.

Chuck these are would be pretty cool in O scale wouldn't they?

 

 

My elevated tracks are 10" high. I uses 2" wood dowels, plywood, and edging material that make a good looking, low cost system.

 

 

J Daddy it is an around the wall type,here is  some photos of what it will look like. 

 

 Passenger Train Collecter, your idea is good one using 2'' dowels.

 

I had the same concern when I added my simple second level.  I wanted it structurally sound, but the least obstructive.  So I used 3/4 inch dowels cut to 9 inches long and for the roadbed, 1/4 inch press board that is finished with a laminated white on one side.  All from Home Depot.

 

All supports are screwed down snugly on top and bottom.  The Polar Express runs elevated at fairly fast speeds and has not tumbled down from the track yet.

 

 

Very good ideas!  What would be the best way to trim the plywood in the turns? I'd like to do something similar on my layout but I don't know the best way to make the curves work. Thanks!

That would be great. They look expensive, but some of the mass produced trestle sets could be open in the middle.

A jigsaw is what I used for the curves. Quick, precise, and easy.

The trick is laying out the shape / turns you need with black marker then removing the piece and cutting it off site.

I am at this point with my double decked layout where my upper deck will have a dual elevated main line going all away around the room.

It would be cool to have elevated stations at different locations to service the elevated (passenger?) trains. I like the 3/4" dowel idea - clean, minimal, maybe painted concrete gray - and some posts with cables around the elevated track bed perimeter would make it even better. 

Gary, here you go. This is an example of station platforms on elevated tracks. Works like a charm. They measure 12 ft. long and handle those 21" K-Line cars nicely (as you can see). These platforms were custom built by Alex Malliae.

 

 

It certainly does look good.   Mind if I ask what you used for the curved sidewall/edging   (whatever it's called exactly) sections.

 

- Mike

Mike, I got this material at the Home Depot and it came in 12 ft. sections. It is 2" wide and very bendable. The simulated girder effect was created with wooden match sticks. The pieces were sprayed with flat black water based paint. The deck is 1/2" plywood and is extremely strong with the 2" dowels supporting the decking.

 

There is a 10" difference between the winter scene part of our layout and the lower portion. Since the elevated tracks mate to the higher level, The elevated tracks are 10" above the lower section. I would use this same height again if I were to do it over again. The 10" height does not obstruct the scenery below.

 

Hope this helps.

Well,it looks to me that the way to go would be with 2'' wooden dowels,but what do other forum members think of the 16'' height that i have proposed? I haven't committed myself to this height,i could change it when the time comes.

 

If you mean that the second level will be 16 inches above ground level of the main line(s), that seems pretty high. So naturally, the higher you go, the larger the diameter of your dowel supports should be. It also depends on how much mass you are supporting.

 

On mine, the grand kids wanted the Polar Express to have its own loop, without interference from the other trains. So it runs on its own elevated single track using the thin roadbed and smaller dowels for support. I know that in the photos, it looks a little rickety. But the elevated track is tight, level, and solid, with no "flexing" as the train runs along.  I should have painted the dowels and edges of the roadbed gray, but was in a hurry to get it done before last Christmas.

 

If you are going to have a double track with station platforms then you'll want to go with thicker dowels and roadbed.

 

Yellowstone  Special, thats what i was talking about,i am using 3/4'' plywood  { Got it for free],and there won't be anything heavy up there,i will not be buying any Big boy engines,or putting any heavy buildings,there will be some sidings where i will be parking some short trains,other than that i don't see weight being a problem,using 3/8''threaded pipe with floor flanges would be plenty strong ,but that can be expensive,i would rather use the wooden dowels.

I also used dowel to support the upper level on my old layout.

1/2" plywood with Johnson rubber roadbed finished it off...

I'm using 1-1/4 in wood dowels for my second & third levels.  I'm using double end furniture screws to attach the dowels to the plywood first level base and multi-purpose screws to attach the plywood to the top of the dowels on the levels.  I went with 8 inch length for my second level and 16 inch for my third level. Lay out your upper level on plywood and trace it out. I cut mine with 1/2 inch overhangs on each side of the track using my jigsaw. I also am using dowels of different heights to elevate from the first level to the second level.  I primed them and then spray painted all of them with stone paint to make them look like concrete pillars.  Good luck!

Height for Elevated Lines.

 

I have two elevated lines about the main line.

 

Rust colored trestle is, 15 inches.

 

Green colored trestle is, 24 1/2 inches • Above the main line

 

See Photo below

Click photo to enlarge

Gary P, I should make myself more clear,the second level will be anywhere from 18'' to 23'' deep,it is not just the with of 1 track,i will have to make sure i use enough of the dowels to support the second level.

 

    Trainroomgary,I really like the look of your 3 level layout it looks really cool,believe it or not,i was at first thinking about doing 3 levels,now that i have seen how yours looks , you have really seriously got me thinking about this again,we will see what happens in the comming weeks.

Gerald, I would suggest using 2" diameter dowels for the width of your elevated sections,  I would also suggest for extra support at both base and under the elevated track to both screw and glue the dowels with drilled out centers of wood blocks ( like a 4 inch circle from a 2 x 6 of wood)  with the 2 inch center drilled out using a double ended furniture screw and gluing the dowels to the blocks at the bottom.  At the top I would support using a 2 x 4 with the center drilled out, screwed & glued.   You can taper the ends of the 2 x 4 so it's harder to see it supporting the elevated track.  Just a idea I had for it. Good luck with however you do it.

Thanks Gary P, You make a good point with the idea of putting a base at both ends of the dowel for more support,i think thats what i will eventually wind up doing when all is said & done.

My upper level is 8" above my platform.  I chose this height because I wanted to connect the two levels with 2 graduated  trestles.  I was able to achieve a reasonable grade,though not prototypical, over about 25'.

I used 1.5" wood strips to support the elevated portions of my layout.

Norm