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I know this is supposed to be an O Guage forum however, my current focus these days hase been doing some 2 rail HO modeling, mostly European trains.  I recently got a passenger set of cars that the seller didn't know had bright led lighting installed from the PO. 1 of the cars didn't light, and since these were for vintage EU, I thought it best to remove them. The PO had cobbled a simple LED conversion using a MB6S (rectifier I think), capacitor and diode.  The install was crude at best, using liquid tape around the bare wires; aother reason to remove.  So now I'm looking to change and use a warm set of LED lighting. Given this is HO, I need something small.  It looks like the LM2596 series of boards will work, provided I either get the one with the build in bridge or add one. Here is what I found.

Mini

Popular

Valefod-8-Pack-LM2596-DC-to-DC-High-Efficiency-Voltage-Regulator-3-0-40V-to-1-5

With bridge rectifier

LM2596-Adjustable-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Voltage-Regulator-24V-to-12V-3A

My concerns are

1. Sized to fit (I think any of these will fit) 

2. Anti-flickering

3. Bridge to allow the lighting to work in reverse mode. Need for option 1 and 2.

Looking for recomendations, thanks !

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ho led options

Over what DC voltage range do you operate your HO?  As you know, some HO engines will operate down to, say, 2V DC track voltage.  

What I consider the reference O-gauge LED circuit is the one from Hennings Trains shown on upper right.   The typical LM2596 module is about the size of the middle module.  The small DC-DC module on the left is the one you show based on the MP1584 regulator IC chip.  As you say, you would need a bridge to handle both DC polarities.  You would need a capacitor to handle anti-flicker.  Those components would be about the size shown but those are surface-mount which can be difficult to work with.  But of course they are available in wire-terminal form.  Note how your MP1584 module has extra pads on the inputs so could be a good way to mount the capacitor and bridge.  The MP1584 design is not suitable for AC O-gauge due to voltage limitations...but OK for DC HO.  So given the options presented, I'd go with the MP1584 module with an added bridge and cap.

I'm assuming you're driving individual warm-white LEDs … NOT a 12V LED strip?  

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Last edited by stan2004

Understood.  Well, the most common/popular LED strips operate off 12V DC.  Experience in O-gauge suggests between 10-11V DC is what they end up being set at for passenger cars.

Here's the thing.  A bridge rectifier between the DC track voltage and the regulator circuit drops the voltage by about 1.5V (two diode drops).  Then the regulator module itself imposes a voltage "tax" which can be around 2V.  So your 12V LED strip would be starved for voltage when the track voltage is low.  

Not to worry!  The 2nd most common LED strips operate off 5V DC.  These are also available in all colors (e.g., warm white).  Probably a bit more expensive per meter than the 12V style but prices are rapidly dropping after "someone" discovered 5V DC is everywhere there's a USB port.

Anyway, just search for "5V warm white LED strip".  They are available in the "standard" 60 LED per meter density.  So that would be maybe 10 or 11 LEDs in an 8" car.  With the 5V strips, you're not constrained to multiples of 3-LED sections either; in othe words the "cut-lines" are each LED rather than every 3rd LED.  In practice, based on the O-gauge experience, you'll probably find driving the 5V strip at somewhere between 4 to 4.5V DC will be appropriate for passenger car lighting.  That's where the adjustable output regulator module comes in.

I'm not familiar with the size of capacitor needed for anti-flicker in HO.  But I'd think something in the few hundreds of uF would be a good starting point.  10 cents.  Bridge rectifier, another 10 cents.  What are you waiting for!

I'm waiting for your pictures!   

Note that if you choose to work with the tiny surface-mount components for the bridge and capacitor, GRJ has made a circuit-board that mates with the MP1584 converter.  Refer to following thread:

https://ogrforum.com/...87#82100772862896887

It appears you still need to source the components and blank circuit board yourself (I don't think a kit with the board and all components is available).

 

 

Last edited by stan2004

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