how about a listing for best small transformers to operate the older PS-1 trains ?

Any Pure Sine wave transformer with a Bell and whistle button.  G

I don't know why the Z500/750/1000 wouldn't work.  If you use an older Lionel or Marx transformer, be sure to include a 5 amp circuit breaker in the line to the track.

Remember, you are powering a locomotive with two motors and the electronics to operate it.  I am a more is better guy.

Überstationmeister posted:

the Z-500/750/1000 should work fine for "older" PS1, but "ancient" PS1/QSI (before 1997?) sometimes does not like its "wave".

Hello Uberstationmeister,and guys and gals.

That is interesting, I didn't know that    Will the PS-1 system of 1999 NW-2 work well with the MRC throttle pack 100AC transformer ?  The model # MRC1311(100 watt model).   I am looking for a small transformer for the small layout of 36 by 78 inches. ( its easier for me to handle it due to less transformer weight as the Z4000 is 22 pounds its kind of heavy for me to carry out from the closest and to put away in the closest after use).

Tiffany

I have been using an MTH Z-1000 with my MTH PS-1 4-6-2 steam engine and it works very well. Have also used the Lionel post war ZW with that engine before.

Lee Fritz

For a small floor layout a MTH Z-1000 or Z-500 will work

Thanks

Pat

WWW.PATSTRAINS.COM

ZOOM	$59.95	MTH Z-500 Hobby Transformer http://www.patstrains.com/View...Details=View+Details	Stock Number: 40-500 Gauge: O/O-27 Gauge Manufacturer: MTH RailKing Product Type: Transformers Availability: In Stock
<input name="View_Details" type="submit" value="View Details" />
ZOOM	$99.98	MTH Z-1000 Hobby Transformer http://www.patstrains.com/View...Details=View+Details	Stock Number: 40-1000 Gauge: O/O-27 Gauge Manufacturer: MTH RailKing Product Type: Transformers Availability: In Stock

I already have a MTH Z1000, so that is suggestion #1. For MRC, I'd be looking at the THROTTLEPACK 1301. The one transformer I would urge you to avoid is the Lionel CW80. 

I have been using a lionel 1033 post war for my PS1 Hudson.   I had to add the external Lionel horn button since the 1033 only has a whistle control.   Working great for 10 years!   I do need to add a 5 amp breaker per all the advice I read on this forum.      See my video:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3L_63AsrME

A little information on the MTH Z-500; it only has 50 watts, it's more of a starter set transformer then anything and don't have much power. I would get the MTH Z-750(75 watts) or Z-1000(100 watts) as they have more watts. Also the Z-1000 has an accessory voltage output.

Lee Fritz

MTH Z-1000 gets my vote. powerful and versatile w/ accessory port.

Drummer3 posted:

I have been using a lionel 1033 post war for my PS1 Hudson.   I had to add the external Lionel horn button since the 1033 only has a whistle control.   Working great for 10 years!   I do need to add a 5 amp breaker per all the advice I read on this forum...

A 1033 will probably not trip a 5 amp breaker fast enough(if at all) to provide any protection to the wiring or transformer and will not provide any protection at all to the electronics.

A 1033 should work fine.. Just use a 5amp external fuse or breaker as stated above..

Woodson posted:

... Just use a 5amp external fuse or breaker as stated above..

For what purpose?

ADCX Rob posted:

Woodson posted:

... Just use a 5amp external fuse or breaker as stated above..

For what purpose?

My understanding is that the breakers in the 'pre-electronic' transformers were slow to react.. An external breaker or fuse would do it's job so as to not 'fry' the electronics in the newer equipment.. I think all the older transformers, LW, ZW, KW etc. fall in this category.. You electronic experts chime in as I do not wish to put out bad information..

Woodson posted:

A 1033 should work fine.. Just use a 5amp external fuse or breaker as stated above..

hello guys and gals........

A postwar # 1033 is rated INPUT of 90 watts, OUTPUT is about 60 watts. All of the postwar transformers are rated for input not output. My favorite postwar transformer is the "LW" type  label says 125 watt  that means INPUT so the OUTPUT is about 75 watts.  I think it be wiser to use a modern transformer for trains of today where the electronics cost more than the engine itself if replacing the boards.  I think 100 watts OUTPUT is plenty don't ya think for small 36 by 78 using NW-2 diesel and 4 cars and few buildings with lights and remote switches ?  perhaps I am wrong here so chime in guys.........

Tiffany

Of course a "modern transformer" would be your best bet, IMO..

Woodson posted:

ADCX Rob posted:

Woodson posted:

... Just use a 5amp external fuse or breaker as stated above..

For what purpose?

My understanding is that the breakers in the 'pre-electronic' transformers were slow to react.. An external breaker or fuse would do it's job so as to not 'fry' the electronics in the newer equipment..

OK, that's a different issue. You need Transient Voltage Suppression to protect electronics from voltage spikes.

A 1033 will probably not trip a 5 amp breaker fast enough(if at all) to provide any protection to the wiring or transformer, and will not provide any protection at all to the electronics.

So is a Z1000 transformer 100 watts input or 100 watts output?

:

I assume the 14v is the variable output, and 18v is the fixed?

No, other way around.

Woodson posted:

ADCX Rob posted:

Woodson posted:

... Just use a 5amp external fuse or breaker as stated above..

For what purpose?

My understanding is that the breakers in the 'pre-electronic' transformers were slow to react.. An external breaker or fuse would do it's job so as to not 'fry' the electronics in the newer equipment.. I think all the older transformers, LW, ZW, KW etc. fall in this category.. You electronic experts chime in as I do not wish to put out bad information..

That's correct, the circuit breakers in the old post war transformers were mainly to keep the transformer from overheating from a dead short and won't won't protect your trains. For most post war transformers it is best to add a 6 or 7 amp external circuit breaker to the positive side and use a transient voltage suppressor or TVS rated at 32 volts AC bi-directional. Mouser or one or 2 other electronics companies have these and the price is around $3.00 each for a TVS. A small investment against peak voltage spikes.

Lee Fritz

Woodson posted:

Of course a "modern transformer" would be your best bet, IMO..

 

A more modern transformer(like the Lionel ZW-L or the MTH Z-4000) may not always be best with PS-1 from MTH. The sign wave shape might be off and not work with the PS-1 engine or cause it to go into rocket sled speed without any speed control other then a complete turning off of power.

An older transformer(like the post war transformers) should have the correct wave output and not cause problems for the PS-1 engines.

Lee Fritz

"That's correct, the circuit breakers in the old post war transformers were mainly to keep the transformer from overheating from a dead short and won't won't protect your trains. For most post war transformers it is best to add a 6 or 7 amp external circuit breaker to the positive side and use a transient voltage suppressor or TVS rated at 32 volts AC bi-directional. Mouser or one or 2 other electronics companies have these and the price is around $3.00 each for a TVS. A small investment against peak voltage spikes."

"A more modern transformer(like the Lionel ZW-L or the MTH Z-4000) may not always be best with PS-1 from MTH. The sign wave shape might be off and not work with the PS-1 engine or cause it to go into rocket sled speed without any speed control other then a complete turning off of power."

"An older transformer(like the post war transformers) should have the correct wave output and not cause problems for the PS-1 engines."

Thanks for the information, Lee!! How should the TVS be hooked up??

To me the toughest problem with ps1 loco is operating the codes with a small or postwar transformer you had to do a series of on/off to operate a code. The Z4000 you can operate the codes digitally   which makes it the best choice for a ps1 loco. They never made a smaller transformer with this option because they moved to the ps2 system and it was not needed 

Franktrain

The TVS units should be hooked up at the hot terminal across the common, it would seem like you will have a direct short but it won't happen as long as the TVS unit is good.

Circuit breakers get hooked up; one wire from the hot terminal and the other wire then goes to the track. NO common wire hook-up on a circuit breaker!

Lee Fritz