I need to buy a Motor Mite by Digital Dynamics, but can not get through to anyone (Ed) there. Does anyone know if DD is still in business? How best for me to pursue and purchase a DC Motor Mite? The can motor in one of my converted AF SP GP9's seized and fried the Motor Mite while run as part of a four-unit multi-engine consist. Thank you. I converted several engines with MM's 6-7 years ago, and this is the first one to fail (all though I don't think it was the MM's fault).
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DD is no more. Check out electricrr.com and see if any of the mini commanders will work for you. The Motor Mite doesn't have an equivalent at the moment.
Pete
Thanks Pete. Sorry to hear of DD's passing. ERR makes good products too, but their mini-commander for similarly small spaces is rated at I believe 1A whereas the MM was 4A which for engines is (was) reassuring. A MM would also be my first preference because the other engine in the lash-up has one. Thanks again, however, for your prompt and informative reply.
I think Ed just decided to give up the business. Too bad as he had some innovative products. ERR used to have the beep and buddy commanders which had a similar footprint and features. As you can appreciate there is a need for for smaller drivers boards.
How bad was the board fried? Maybe you can replace the transistors?
Pete
I have a couple of the DD MotorMite boards in some stuff here, I was sorry to see them go, they did fill a niche for TMCC conversion boards.
ERR still has the MiniCommander 2, and it's usable for dual motored engines. I think the MiniCommander ACC (with the ENG code) may be limited to 1A, but I'm guessing the larger board is more capable. Perhaps you should call Ken at ERR, he'll give you some guidance on what to expect out of the board.
The thing I liked about the DD MotorMite is it was different dimensionally than the MiniCommander 2 and allows choosing the form factor for difficult installations at times.
For your unit that got cooked, have you considered trying to replace the drivers? That's probably the part that was taken out when the motor died.
If you can't repair the MM; then a Mini2 *may* be OK. The only issue that would be of concern is if the speed profiles match exactly. Basically the Mini2 is a radio with a 4 amp (peak) driver integrated into one PCB. The motor drive levels should be close, as the designs are both FET based. Also, set the Mini2 to 32 speed step mode.
Thanks Jon, I thought the Mini2 had more capability than 1A.
How can I tell what part(s) of the MM failed (e.g. the drivers)? Thanks.
How can I tell what part(s) of the MM failed (e.g. the drivers)? Thanks.
The four large packages laying flat are the drivers. What part number is on those components?
WOW, I don't know how to find that one, are those the only numbers on those?
Here are the three main component part numbers on the Motor Mite.
The opto couplers are S2S3LA0F Mouser part number 852-S2S3LA0F
The Triacs are MAC4DLMT4G Mouser part number 863-MAC4DLMT4G
The Shottkey Diodes are B540C-13-F Mouser part number 621-B540C-F
These are what I have used for repairs
Carl
I think Carl has supplied all the answers. Those parts are all pretty cheap, I'd probably just get a "kit" and start with the triacs and work my way back.
Carl,
When you say Triac, I'm assuming you are referring to the four large flat 4DLM components we have been talking about - - correct? What are the little blue components then across the Triac leads? Resistors? If I replace the Triacs, should I also replace them? If so, can you provide a p/n or spec for them? Thanks. What are the odds based on your experience that replacing the four Triacs might fix this MM? Thanks everyone for your help. I'm considering putting this engine back to conventional operation with its original Lionel reverse unit, but would like not to if possible, especially since it runs so well with an AF SP GP20 that I also converted to TMCC with a MM (not to mention how with the dummy GP9 they make a nice triple-header of "bloody-noses").
Carl,
Can you provide the Mouser P/N for the tiny blue components across the leads of the Motor Mite Triacs (see attached photo)? I am going to replace them along with the other 3 main components that you so generously provided the specs and Mouser numbers for. Thanks. I believe they are 5-band resistors with br/br/bk/bk/br stripes - 110 ohm 1% tolerance? But not sure what power rating or how to be sure they'll be the right size. A Mouser part number would be terrific. I'd like to try repairing this Motor Mite before giving up on it. Thanks.
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I can't imagine they're resistors, more likely ceramic capacitors. A 110 ohm resistor there would be cinders in a hurry. Ceramic capacitors come in that package with color coding as well.
Since you're going to replace them, I'd take one out and stick an ohmmeter on it. If you have a capacitance meter, that would probably be more telling.
Since I do not have a board on hand I can't be sure but if it is a resistor it probablly some kind of snubber.
Mouser part would be 270-110-RC if it is indeed a resistor.
Do a check with an ohm meter on the parts to possibly find a faulty one?
Sgaugin, the Mini Commander 2 is your best choice. The Mini ACC w/ ENG code would work as well, but you only get 1/2 wave sourced DC to the motor. Drop me an email and I will review your needs and assist resolving your dilemma.
Sgaugin, the Mini Commander 2 is your best choice. The Mini ACC w/ ENG code would work as well, but you only get 1/2 wave sourced DC to the motor. Drop me an email and I will review your needs and assist resolving your dilemma.
Jon, I thought you guys were not going to sell those anymore. Did you make a breakthrough?
I don't think so. I had one of those that I wanted to convert, but after looking at the space available, I just couldn't see any way to get it in there without cutting away a lot of metal.
Sgaugin, the Mini Commander 2 is your best choice. The Mini ACC w/ ENG code would work as well, but you only get 1/2 wave sourced DC to the motor. Drop me an email and I will review your needs and assist resolving your dilemma.
Jon, I thought you guys were not going to sell those anymore. Did you make a breakthrough?
No breakthrough on the Mini ACC w/ ENG code. The boards work well and is functioning as designed.
Your speeder ran poorly in one direction, and reversing the Mini Acc outputs did not change the direction of the rough running; so the issue was inside the speeder; not the electronics. Running your returned Mini Acc's with other vehicles also did not exhibit any issues like your speeder.
However, the speeder ran better with the Mini Commander 2, and the Mini Commander 2 is basically the same physical size; so the best application of the technology is to use the Mini Commander 2 in small motored vehicles.
There may be folks who want to use an Mini Acc to maintain some sense of compatibility with previous installs where they used a Mini Acc, so we won't stop selling them.
Jon,
Thanks for the offer to assist me. Sorry, but I don't know your email address. Please provide me that. Thanks. The last time I did this (2007) with engines for which a Motor Mite was not the right form factor, Jon Zeke at ERR specially ENG coded Mini Commanders for me. I need a fairly compact unit - no larger than the original Lionel electronic reverse unit. 1"x2"x.75" ought to work. Perhaps again it is an ENG coded MC that I should use. OTOH, the MC2 appears to have the same dimensions as a MC, but with a steady power rating of 2A whereas the ENG-coded MC was/is 0.8A. I'd prefer the 2A over 0.8A (Motor Mite was 4A) even though this engine doesn't draw 2A. Look forward to your help getting this clarified and my ordering the right item. Thanks.
One other thing. Which unit is the MC2 on the ERR Purchase page? Is it the second one listed?
Mini Commander ACC - accessories and operating cars | 39.95 | <form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post" target="paypal"><input align="top" alt="Make payments with PayPal - it's fast, free and secure!" name="I3" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/sc-but-01.gif" type="image" /></form> |
Mini Commander HC v2 - high current output (milk cars, etc.) | 44.95 | <form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post" target="paypal"><input align="top" alt="Make payments with PayPal - it's fast, free and secure!" name="I3" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/sc-but-01.gif" type="image" /></form> |
Mini Commander EX - dummy engine (lights/coil cplrs) | 34.95 | <form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post" target="paypal"><input align="top" alt="Make payments with PayPal - it's fast, free and secure!" name="I3" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/sc-but-01.gif" type="image" /></form> |
The MiniCommander 2 is not on that page, it's on it's own page. Click Products, then MiniCommander 2.
Right. That's why I asked. It's the Mini Commander 2 on the Products page with specs dimensions, etc. there, but no price or purchase button are provided. Then on the Purchase page there is nothing listed called "Mini Commander 2".
Oh hold on. Found the cause of confusion. The Mini Commander info on the Purchase tab does not list a Mini Commander 2, but if you click the Ordering Info link at the bottom of the Mini Commander 2 page under Products it does list it with a price and purchase button. $59.95
It's there, it's listed under TMCC driver board products.
Jon,
Thanks for the offer to assist me. Sorry, but I don't know your email address. Please provide me that. Thanks. The last time I did this (2007) with engines for which a Motor Mite was not the right form factor, Jon Zeke at ERR specially ENG coded Mini Commanders for me.
Sgaugina - that person from ElectricRR was me! My email is in my profile for contacting me, please check there as posting an email on a forum can get you on a spam list.
I am not sure what I did special for you way back then... but certainly I can help you get running again!
Jon,
Thanks. Nice to get reacquainted. Congratulations on your sale of ERR to Lionel and your role there as CTO! I opened your OGR profile and can see when you joined, when you last logged in, all of your posts, etc., but not an email address for you. Would like to communicate that way. Any tips on what I'm doing wrong? I am logged in. Thanks. Andrew at ERR in the meantime has been emailing with me. He recommended I use a MiniCommander 2 version 1 (supports lightbulbs which this Lionel AF GP9 uses). That sounds like it might be what I need - - does it support directional lighting of those bulbs? Thanks again and I look forward to direct email communication with you soon.
Hi,
Checked my profile, and see the email, but could not see yours. Perhaps a security feature of the board? Anyways here it is: replace the (at) and (dot) to generate a real email address: jonzroute-lionel (AT) yahoo (DOT) com
Lets connect and go over your options; appears Andrew has you headed the right direction.
jon
I opened your OGR profile and can see when you joined, when you last logged in, all of your posts, etc., but not an email address for you.
You need to click on the Extended Profile link in the user's profile to see the email addresses.
Thanks. Don't see an Extended Profile link. Does that require a Premier Membership (i.e. $25.year)?
I have a plain 'ol membership, and I see it, this is on the right side of the profile screen. If your screen resolution isn't sufficient, you may have to scroll to the right. Jon's email address in in there, same as he posted above.
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Gunrunner - - thanks. I didn't scroll down far enough past the ads for Ross switches, Atlas, etc, on the right to see the additional information about him listed next to the log of his posts. Kind of an obscure location for additional information, but thanks much for the clue on where to look for it. I had clicked on his name and then the little-man icon next to his name which pops up a bubble with supposedly more information about him as a member, but nearly as much as what lies in the right margin.
Yep, it is a bit obscure.