How do I jump from pre/post war era to LC+2.0

If you buy a Lionchief set or loco or Lionchief + loco from previous catalogs or a new Lionchief + 2.0 loco, as long as there is about 8-10 volts on the track, you can operate any of these locos in what is command code (independent control of speed, direction, whistle, bell, etc. for each loco).  Control can derive from the LC or LC+ remote that comes with each loco, with Bluetooth and your free Lionel app on your phone or tablet (iPhone or iPad in your case) for all Bluetooth equipped locos (which includes all new LC+2.0 in the catalog, all new LC locos in the catalog, and all new Legacy locos). It's pretty simple and intuitive as each loco comes with its own remote (LC, LC+) or can be controlled by your smart device (any Bluetooth equipped loco, which is everything in the new catalog and much of the last catalog).

You can also purchase a Universal Remote which will control up to three LC, LC+ or LC+2.0 locos and any Bluetooth loco (including Legacy).  This remote puts out both Lionchief and Bluetooth commands.  It costs about $40 at most hobby shops and is in the catalog. 

Hope that gives a simpler path forward for you.  Bottom line is you can combine your conventional locos to some extent with any of these command locos as long as about 8 volts or more is on the track,  and you'll have independent control of each loco.  Or you can set up two independent loops and use one for conventional (e.g., postwar) and one for command (LC, LC+, LC+2.0 or Bluetooth).  That may be simpler.

It occurs to me I may have misinterpreted your request.  If you are asking about updating your postwar locos to LionChief +2.0, the answer is simple. It cannot be easily done at present as Lionel has not seen fit to make upgrade kits available for LC, LC+ or LC+2.0.  The upgrades would probably not be simple in any case, except for technically skilled individuals.  You can upgrade to command control (TMCC) (but not Bluetooth) through 3rd Rail's ERR kits, but these are not for those without soldering skills and can be rather expensive (figure $100 for command and at least another $100 for sound, plus the cost of someone doing the work if you are not doing it yourself).

So bottom line, for most folks is to dedicate the postwar stuff for conventional running, and buying new for LC+, Bluetooth, etc.

I think Landsteiner has great advice.  You might want to look for a LionChief Plus w/ Bluetooth engine out of the last couple catalogs.  It's a great way to get your feet wet with command control.

As long as you apply proper voltage to the track, you can use the remote that comes with the engine (or your smartphone).  And you can run it conventionally like your dad's trains.  

Trainworld has an awesome sale on LionChief Plus w/ Bluetooth engines.  Pacifics, Hudsons, and A5's for $299, RS-3 & GP38 diesels for $229.  I don't think you'll beat that.  Good luck!

You can also set your layout up for the new stuff, but still be able to run your dad's old stuff in what we call "conventional" format meaning just through a transformer like you would have before. I think one key is if you do want to run some newer stuff, you should either use modern transformers for power or install some fast acting circuit breakers to protect the new trains from the inherent spikes from the old transformers and power grid.  Your dad's 226E is a Wonderful loco, definitely a keeper.

Thanks to both for the advise. Landsteiner, you were correct, maybe I wasn't very clear. My thought was not to upgrade my old engines with newer technology, but to be able to run them all on my o gauge layouts.

I understand I will have to run on totally separate loops with engines of different technogies, or take turns parking on blocked sidings, before switching to a different engine/train each time.

I'll check out Trainworld too, Beachhead2, thanks!

Lion L 226E

No you do not have to run separately.  With LC as long as you stick with one using remote or Universal Remote you can run together.  Transformer controls your trains, and remote controls LC+.  Now if you want to change voltage of PW stuff, or hit direction button, the LC+ will be effected because track voltage goes away momentarily or changes voltage level; so an adjustment of LC+ required after track voltage change.  Just depends on how you run your trains.  G

Lion L,

Some excellent advice above.

I have a postwar style layout and run 99 percent conventional so I know where you’re coming from. I also have a handful of Lion Chief + locos (steam and diesel) and they are great. As noted above, just stick them on the track and they run. And just to re-cap LC+ locos can be run conventionally or with the supplied remote.

 I’d look at some of the LC+ offerings from the past few years to get started. Most likely you can snag a new LC+ for a very good price for those that have been out for a while. This will give you a good intro as you look to adding more in the future.

Lion L 226E posted:

Thanks to both for the advise. Landsteiner, you were correct, maybe I wasn't very clear. My thought was not to upgrade my old engines with newer technology, but to be able to run them all on my o gauge layouts.

I understand I will have to run on totally separate loops with engines of different technogies, or take turns parking on blocked sidings, before switching to a different engine/train each time.

 

I'll check out Trainworld too, Beachhead2, thanks!

Lion L 226E

Yes, you will have to run post-war and LC+ on separate loops.  To run LC+ the track voltage must be set at about 18 volts.  So if you place a post-war loco on this track, it will likely try to act like an airplane.  Your original assumption is correct.  Park the LC+ on a siding that has an on/off switch.  Turn the voltage to the rest of the layout down and run your conventional post-war stuff.  

The one big plus with the Lionchief system is being able to spot cars precisely.  Particularly if you have operating accessories.  Another advantage, if you run LC+ exclusively, is that power to O22 switch tracks is at a constant 18 volts, so no need to use the fixed voltage plugs.  

Dan Padova posted:

 To run LC+ the track voltage must be set at about 18 volts. 

Not accurate. To run LC+ you only have to have the track voltage a little bit higher than you want the loco to run. The loco has to have a little voltage headroom, but the track does not have to be all the way to 18 volts.

This is a common misconception that probably started when TMCC came out. The track does not have to be at full 18 volts to operate TMCC or Legacy locos either.

Welcome Lion L 226E, I’m glad that red and green chart was helpful.  

The first question to ask yourself is, “which specific engines do you like and expect to purchase in your expansion?”

The answer to your thread topic question will differ based on the control capabilities of those engines that you expect to buy and how exactly you would like to control them. 

With the advent of Bluetooth control, you can have a simplified system - transformer and hand held remote. There are limitations to the current Bluetooth system ie control of only 3 trains at a time from a single universal remote, you can not access all TMCC / legacy features. 

If you wish to control many engines, access all legacy features, or wish to buy older TMCC / legacy without Bluetooth, you will need either the legacy base and remote (best) or the TMCC Base-1L and remote Cab-1L (2nd best).

During my transition from Post-War to command control trains (I only had several command engines at the start - now more than 50 down from 70), I would set up my conventional engine to run at a reasonable speed between 16 and 18 volts by loading up with cars and then after getting that train running at a speed I could accept, I would start my   command engine and vary its train speed  to avoid a collision with the conventional train.  I thought it was nice to have my 50 plus year old train running with my recently purchased command engines on the same loop. I ended up using MTH initially because I thought that the variable TIU power channel was easier for me to understand and purchase than all the components required for the Lionel command system (then TMCC).  I currently purchase my engines based on the engine's feature set and not the operating system with my Lionel purchases about 25 % of all my engines with the roster consisting of SMR, Kline, Lionel and MTH engines (sold my 3rd rail SF 2900 due to drive train issues.)  SMR engines converted to Proto2 and TMCC (ERR kit), and my Kline engines converted to Proto2.  My conventional engines and cars are now at my son's house with the operating accessories  still on my layout.

Other things you will need to run modern trains are TVS diodes and fast acting inline circuit breakers. These will help protect the sensitive circuit boards inside the trains. 

Now that I've had some time to ponder the suggestions above, I wonder...

1. "Entry level" (sorry about this particular terminology) what would be the absolute minimum investment for me to use my iPhone/iPad for remote control of my conventional trains and a LC+Bluetooth train on my layout? As stated above I have a 5x10 main loop w/two reversing loops near each end, 9 switches (half manual) and 4 sidings with blocks

I'm guessing I have an adequate level of track power, (no accessories at this time) with the 3 post war transformers which can each produce 18VAC. The bluetooth must require a command module or Power Master or something to communicate and provide track power settings...true?  Do I need  Powermaster (or) Powerhouse, (or) both?

As I read it, I don't need the protection of the Direct Lock-on if I have either a Powermaster or Powerhouse.

Sooo... Command unit of some kind with or without/remote and a Powermaster at least?

Fortunately, I get to attend a train show this weekend...whoooo...whoo, recommended by the local hobby store. I just hate to walk in there with the word "SUCKER" on my forehead

Your thoughts???

Comments from the last several posts noted! All good suggestions and information. I was wondering about the 18V track power "requirement" myself. Thanks Dan and RoyBoy for your input. Appreciate you all.