The post the screw goes into to hold it to the frame is broken...how do you fix it ? It was glued but when the screw was put back in, it broke off again. Any ideas ?
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Photo would help.
It's a fairly common problem. Depending on the specific design, the surgical choices may vary.
I've done a couple on diesel shells, a few more on steam loco tender shells. The 'fix' is not always pretty, but then it's not to be seen, anyway.
Also, the underlying cause may be, how should we say?, 'screwing etiquette'!
...substituting the wrong screw, double threading a self-tapper, over-torquing, etc., etc...which is a whole different subject covered in prior searchable threads. After all, even the best of fixes can succumb to further errors of our ways.
Just suggesting...
What kind of glue did you use? A solvent glue (Plastruct Plastic weld, or MEK) that actually melts and fuses the styrene pieces together is best. Clamp together with a clothespin, let it dry overnight and hand turn a drill bit in the hole to open it up. It should be as strong as the original part.
Bob
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The metal cap type is pressed on after you glue repair a cracked post. The idea is it holds the tip of the post together to prevent the screw from cracking the post again. Also good to install before a post cracks in the first place since they are so cheap.
The other type is meant to slide over what remains of the original post. You may decide to cut the original post shorter to a nice straight cutoff point. That said, this post can also be cut to length. I've even used these on Lionel engines- example the Phantom with it's red plastic body posts to prevent them from splitting or repair one after being split.
Also, the slot in the repair post allows it to be installed on one like this with a rib that is part of the body
Wow quick responses...thank you. I think he used hot glue which is why is probably why it didn't stay. Thank you all who answered and I will see if I can order those parts from MTH for myself. I don't have a need just yet but seem pretty handy to keep around.
I typically repair these using the correct sized brass tubing and JB-Weld epoxy to put everything together and to fill the tubing. Once the JB-Weld sets up, I drill a new hole in the post for the screw I'm pretty sure most of my repairs are stronger than the original post.
John so the brass tubing is held on with jb at the same time you fill it up or do you attach the brass with something else 1st ?
It assumes you have part of the post still available to center the brass on. I would also form a bead to the shell and brass tube just like the original plastic is formed to the shell. Just make sure you poition correctly and get the right height so it goes to frame evenly. Especially if you have any lights driven off the spring and pad assembly on a post. G
