The magnetic encoder ring on one of my engines cracked and I understand the Cruise Commander would fix the situation.
Looking for comments from other that have made the upgrade as to operation of their locos after the switch.
Thanks.
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The magnetic encoder ring on one of my engines cracked and I understand the Cruise Commander would fix the situation.
Looking for comments from other that have made the upgrade as to operation of their locos after the switch.
Thanks.
Replies sorted oldest to newest
I've installed the Cruise M is about a half dozen engines but in your case why not just get a new ring? About 10% of the cost.
Pete
I've installed the Cruise M is about a half dozen engines but in your case why not just get a new ring? About 10% of the cost.
Pete
Pete - Part #?
This is one of them but will need the part number of your engine (6-xxxxx) to verify.
Pete
Couldn't you just super glue it back together???
Marty
That does appear to be different. I am not aware of replacement flywheel though you can get the whole motor assembly for $32. Not sure it makes sense though given their propensity to fail.
Pete
That does appear to be different. I am not aware of replacement flywheel though you can get the whole motor assembly for $32. Not sure it makes sense though given their propensity to fail.
Pete
Their propensity to fail is what had me looking at the Cruise M.
In this case I would go for the Cruise M. Like Andy says speed control is better than Odyssey. I have a bunch of the later Odyssey engines with the solid magnet and while not quite the equal of the cruise M they are good enough to repair if you had the solid magnet. All my Cruise M upgrades were to replace non Cruise DCDR modular boards.
Pete
Thanks Pete!!
I've replaced a couple of Odyssey I DCDR-S units with the ERR Cruise Commander M. For reasons I've never figured out, some Odyssey I units work fine, while others have lousy speed control. The ones with the poor speed control get the CCM upgrade.
I added the Cruise Commander M to my Lionel Scale T1. What a difference, especially on my grades. The Grandkids select the T1 for me to run because of it's size and great "steamboat" whistle. With Cruise I can now let it go and concentrate on other layout activities. I believe it's my only 'upgrade'.
I added it to my SMR tahoe and it runs very well (electroncis in the baggage car.) Another option you might want to consider is that I had my TMCC Kline Hudson and Reading Tank engines converted to Proto2 which worked as expected as well.
I added it to my SMR tahoe and it runs very well (electroncis in the baggage car.) Another option you might want to consider is that I had my TMCC Kline Hudson and Reading Tank engines converted to Proto2 which worked as expected as well.
Having someone convert the TMCC to PS/2 is a lot more expensive than bolting in the CCM yourself.
This looks like the flywheel magnet that you are looking for. It is only $3.50. Save your Cruise Commander money.
Now that I know how to take it apart!!! Hero of the day!!
Is there a setscrew in that flywheel? If it's pressed on, you may not get it off that easily.
Good point. Time to take a look...
I wouldn't think there would be a set screw or pressed on, too brittle. I suspect maybe a thin film of glue or silicon.
I wouldn't think there would be a set screw or pressed on, too brittle. I suspect maybe a thin film of glue or silicon.
Once the motor is out, does the flywheel just pull out??
My experience is its easier to pull it off, assuming you have a mini gear/wheel puller with the center screw machined down slightly smaller than the shaft diameter. Its harder to press the flywheel back on without bending either end of the motor shaft. Once the shaft is bent its very difficult to straighten it. If its not straight then the resultant vibration will quickly destroy the bearings.
Pete
There is a reason I love this forum. The collective knowledge of it's members!!
With this particular loco being a favorite and therefore a workhorse, I guess I know which way to go.
Decision made. CCM for me...
Thanks everyone!!!
I wouldn't think there would be a set screw or pressed on, too brittle. I suspect maybe a thin film of glue or silicon.
You're missing the point, the flywheel has to come off to put the magnet ring on!
Jeff, I'd ask Lionel how they recommend getting that part in.
The main issue with Odyssey 1 performance is actually the CAB-1 controller. Original Odyssey 1 units can access the full speed curve when used with a CAB-2 and the mode is set to TMCC or from a computer interface that can access the absolute speed step commands instead of the +|- commands the CAB-1 generates.
The ring is ceramic and it won't glue back together because the magnets in the ring are what's pushing it apart.
Jeff, I'd ask Lionel how they recommend getting that part in.
John - If the CCM eliminates the need for the ring I'll probably go that route.
Well Chuck, we'll have to agree to disagree on that point. I've used Legacy and TMCC mode for a long time with the Odyssey locomotives, that doesn't yield a universally good result for me. Some work a lot better than others.
Jeff, I'd ask Lionel how they recommend getting that part in.
John - If the CCM eliminates the need for the ring I'll probably go that route.
Yep, the CCM doesn't use any of that feedback stuff, it uses the motor back-EMF to regulate speed.
And Bill is a good place to get your CCM!
Well, to be truthful, you have to do a bit more for an Odyssey I locomotive, but it's still pretty simple. You will have to deal with the six pin connector. I personally pull the pins out of the Odyssey connector and not splice the wires, I think it makes a neater installation.
Unless money is not a problem, buy the ring. It is well known the ERR products are good. They do work well. To get your locomotive running fast, a new ring is the answer. When you order a ring, order two. You will be surprised how many of your other locomotives it might fit. I always like to pull all the Leoco plugs on the DCDS and plug them back in.
If you want to go ERR, it is very easy to contact Boxcar Bill. Aside from selling you the product he is a forum guy and can be a help for any questions.
Marty, how do you get the flywheel off and back on? That seems to be the sticking point for installing a new ring.
John
This is how I do it
I also use it for pulling gears. I have a press for putting them back on.
Bill
Same here
Hi, To put them together, heat the flywheel and cool the motor. Then carefully using gloves put them together. We did this in the 50's with model gas engines when putting the engine sleeve back in the block after porting it.
I figured you guys had the tools, which is why I asked. I suspect for someone without the tools, either the complete motor assembly or the CCM is the answer.
I figured you guys had the tools, which is why I asked. I suspect for someone without the tools, either the complete motor assembly or the CCM is the answer.
You are absolutely correct.
Bill
To answer your question, I have installed the CruiseCommanderM is a few locos. Its easy, and works well. Be sure to read and re-read the instructions and understand which parts are which, and which side of the board is the "front" and you'll have no issues.
Jon
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