how to operate the proto-sounds PS-1 coupler when you cannot hear the sounds prior to opening the coupler?

When in neutral, after coming out of reset, raise voltage above 14-15V and press whistle once.   Now operate train at any voltage.  Next time you press whistle the coupler should fire.  G

Dumb question, why can't you hear the sounds?

John she is hearing impaired! 

OK, I guess that's a valid reason!

When I want to open the coupler, I just always raise the track voltage to max and bush the whistle/horn button twice.

chessie1971 posted:

John she is hearing impaired! 

Thank you chessie1971 .    Seems like you're the ONLY one here in OGR that knows I am deaf !!!!

Tiffany

Well, gosh Tiffany, you don't look deaf!   Sorry I didn't realize it, I don't recall seeing that mentioned.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Well, gosh Tiffany, you don't look deaf!   Sorry I didn't realize it, I don't recall seeing that mentioned.

Hello gunrunnerjohn

My husband is also deaf too.  We been deaf since birth.   We didn't purchase the Railking NW-2 for sounds as we don't care for that at all but for simple running switcher that would go on 031 tracked 36 by 78 door layout.  What matters to us is the couplers to operate and to run in both ways without electronic problems to deal with.  When or if the PS-1 system goes KAPUT, we will just replace it with the Dallee # 400 and change to manual type couplers and hope to find a LOUD simple 2 wire hook up electronic horn ( who makes those ?)  then we are happy campers !!!

Tiffany

GGG posted:

When in neutral, after coming out of reset, raise voltage above 14-15V and press whistle once.   Now operate train at any voltage.  Next time you press whistle the coupler should fire.  G

Hello GGG

What do you mean by "after coming out of reset" ?  I am not sure I understand this ?

Tiffany

Tiffany posted:

GGG posted:

When in neutral, after coming out of reset, raise voltage above 14-15V and press whistle once.   Now operate train at any voltage.  Next time you press whistle the coupler should fire.  G

Hello GGG

What do you mean by "after coming out of reset" ?  I am not sure I understand this ?

Tiffany

 

Ok . when power is first applied to the track the engine dings 2. This is what is called reset and a number of engine features may be  programmed in this state.... (you can't hear the dings)  Once the engine is  moving it is no longer in reset state  and you can now  run the engine in forward /neutral/  reverse,    This is when you need to put the engine in neutral, raise the voltage and hit the whistle button to "arm the coupler. The next whistle press will fire the coupler. (hopefully)

Your welcome Tiffany!

What Oman and Gregg say.  You need to have train move at least once before going to neutral and arming coupler.  Once armed, fire when ever even in motion.  G

GGG posted:

When in neutral, after coming out of reset, raise voltage above 14-15V and press whistle once.   Now operate train at any voltage.  Next time you press whistle the coupler should fire.  G

Hello GGG............

(Up-date) I received the J&W BCR-1 about 2 hours ago and installed it for first time, charge it for 2 mins at 12 volts.  It runs good but about the same as the one Pat put in (unknown black type bcr with no name) and its no differences between them 2.  I tried open coupler at 14-15 volts pushing the whitsle button twice (1-2) seconds and it worked !!! sometimes (1-2----3) seconds it worked but at once push nothing.    One of the coupler is sticking so put a drop of oil seems to help some what. Should I do a reset 18 just to be sure the board is working as its suppose to ?  I am using the z4000. (another Up-date few hours later) there seems to be a problem that after charging the BCR for 1 min then runs but I tested by turning off the Z4000 for few mins then back on again, seems to not run after moving throttle on and off few times then on again then it runs.  I not happy with that but I am willing to GUT it and install a Dallee # 400 to keep it simple (don't have one), and change the couplers to manual type.  I just have no faith in fancy ps-1,2 or 3 system and don't want to fool with it either.  I lost faith in those systems 25 years ago in troubles they gave me with those early railking/ permier engines and this one now is starting to act like that.  I have already spend 35 dollars for the BCR (shipping cost too).   It really is a nice switcher but not going to let the PS-1 control me as that spoils the fun out of it.  I just want to put the engine on the track and turn the throttle the engine goes just like the postwar days.  Would you happen to have a Dallee #400 E-unit as those I have faith in it because I have use them before in 3 rail brass locomotives and one railking steam turbine they never gave me trouble.  what can I do ?

Tiffany

Hi Tiffany, You may have to return the BCR for another. I had trouble with one that would discharge very rapidly when power was turned off.  J&W exchanged it with no problem. I personally still like the green MTH batteries. You may have to go back to the battery for that particular engine.

I think The longer you hold the whistle button down when arming will give you  a better coupler fire. Give it a try. There must be a capacitor that charges up that fires the coupler.

Hello guys and gals.......(UP-DATE Aug 10 2016)

I put it on the track running without the shell to break in the gears at 12 volts for 15 minutes each direction for a hour this evening.  I had to charge up the BCR-1 each time the direction was changed and if I don't, it wont move at all (I charge it up 12 volts @ 1 minute first time, it will run).  It seems to draw 1.8 to 2.0 amps running by itself without the bulbs, boards do get warm but I just found out that when turn down the vol., amps goes down to 1.5 amps. There is no mechanical binding of the motors or gears or axles (motors get luke warm, gears axles free).  Is it normal for the boards to draw that much ?   I am slowly getting frustrating to a point of giving up PS-1 and getting RID of it and replacing with a DALLEE #400 E-unit and fix it once for all.  I am thinking of selling the whole boards and new BCR-1 to pay for the Dallee #400 E-unit as it is 44.95 plus shipping.  How about 55 dollars for the whole mess ( 2 boards and BCR-1) to cover the Dallee e-unit and shipping ?  I am at the end of the rope !!!

Tiffany

Seems a little high for a switcher.  Do not know why the BCR is draining so fast.  That is not right.  G

My BCR lasts for 30+ min after I remove the locomotive from the tracks.  Sounds like something is wrong.

Oman posted:

Tiffany posted:

Hello Guys and gals.........

This Southern switcher # 30-2157-1 was made in 1999 and the PS-1 system worked perfectly much to my surprise using the unknown or no name black BCR type.

If what you said at the start  of this post is true, then most likely your new BCR is defective. I would just go back to the original BCR or IMO put in a new green MTH battery.

Hello Oman

Well I was wrong as I ran it yesterday the PS-1 system is not working perfectly after running for hour ( my mistake). Do you think the green battery will fix this and is the green battery better than the BCR-1 ?  I really don't know but know that I am at the end of the rope.

Tiffany

Oman posted:

Tiffany posted:

Oman posted:

Tiffany posted:

Hello Guys and gals.........

This Southern switcher # 30-2157-1 was made in 1999 and the PS-1 system worked perfectly much to my surprise using the unknown or no name black BCR type.

If what you said at the start  of this post is true, then most likely your new BCR is defective. I would just go back to the original BCR or IMO put in a new green MTH battery.

Hello Oman

Well I was wrong as I ran it yesterday the PS-1 system is not working perfectly after running for hour ( my mistake). Do you think the green battery will fix this and is the green battery better than the BCR-1 ?  I really don't know but know that I am at the end of the rope.

Tiffany

Not very probable that 2 BCRs could be bad, so not likely the battery would help. I'm just not a fan of the BCR, especially the 9 volt one, as it requires stacking 2 or 3 Super Caps in series and then adding zener diodes to keep the voltage across the Super Caps balanced. IMO, what's wrong with a battery that you replace once every 5 years or so? Some of the service techs on this forum agree with me. If you put your locomotives on a shelf for long periods of time, then maybe the BCR is the way to go.

Hello Oman

It looks like the BCR-1 is not that good after all.  This is my FIRST BCR-1 purchase I ever made !! It has let me down !! I didn't buy this railking engine for a fixer upper but to put it on the track and run it so I will never deal with PS1 and BCR's again. I am trying to fix my railking NW-2  so I thought the Dallee #400 e-unit would fix it ? ( I don't need the sounds because I am hearing-impaired) but want to run it just like the postwar days !!  What a FINE MESS I gotten myself into !!!!!!!

Tiffany

Tiffany if its a bad BCR then get a hold of modeltrainstuff to replace it and your engine may not be charging up the battery. I would get a hold of Pat see if he can repair it. Things happen and Keith i don't believe half what you say and i shake my head sometimes at you guys.   

chessie1971 posted:

Tiffany if its a bad BCR then get a hold of modeltrainstuff to replace it and your engine may not be charging up the battery. I would get a hold of Pat see if he can repair it. Things happen and Keith i don't believe half what you say and i shake my head sometimes at you guys.   

Hello chessie1971.

I have sent a E-mail to Vincent Rose of modeltrainstuff.com this afternoon about this asking if I can return the BCR-1 and replace it with the Dallee #400 e-unit and letting him know what going on by telling him to check out this posted thread so that he can be aware  of what's happening ( I am hoping he would help me out with this) We shall see soon enough.  I REALLY loved this Green NW-2 a lot and trying to fix this once for all.  It is a beautiful green switcher to my eyes (very pleasing to look at the green color and gold pin stripes in the sun shine). I just want it fixed that's all.

Tiffany

Tiffany no need to rip all that out. Get it fixed and it is a very tuff system and i got two engines with PS1 and BCR-1 and the F3 i got i bought in 2004 or 05 had a BCR for 10 years and not have problem at all and also both my PS1 boards get warm and pull 2.0 amps.    

chessie1971 posted:

Tiffany no need to rip all that out. Get it fixed and it is a very tuff system and i got two engines with PS1 and BCR-1 and the F3 i got i bought in 2004 or 05 had a BCR for 10 years and not have problem at all and also both my PS1 boards get warm and pull 2.0 amps.    

Hello chessie1971

That is good to know, but how do I fix it then ?  The boards appeals to be new or original for this engine, I really want to fix it without spending any more money on it. The J&W BCR-1 didn't seem to do much good on it.  (UP-DATE) well if someone would help me out with this then I happy to keep the PS-1 system in my NW-2. I just checked the J&W BCR-1 with the volt meter much to my surprised it says 3.31 volts since it was charged last night during the break in period and the black one (no label) says 5.04 volts since it was charged few days ago.  Could this mean that the J&W one is bad and to put the black BCR back in the engine ?  How do I do a reset 18 feature as I cannot hear the clinks or dings or bangs !!

Tiffany

Tiffany get a hold of Pat and see if he will fix it. Sounds like the charging circuit is not working and GGG on here maybe able to fix it at component repair . Tiffany piece of advice quit bad mouthing everything about BCR and Pat.    

Just a thought, but going another direction, are there any of the l.e.d. gurus who can advise Tiffany how to connect an colored l.e.d. to light up on top of the engine or in the engine compartment for Tiffany to know every time the couplers are unlatching.

chessie1971 posted:

Tiffany get a hold of Pat and see if he will fix it. Sounds like the charging circuit is not working and GGG on here maybe able to fix it at component repair . Tiffany piece of advice quit bad mouthing everything about BCR and Pat.    

Hello chessie1971

yes sir !!!! loud and clear

Tiffany

EML posted:

Just a thought, but going another direction, are there any of the l.e.d. gurus who can advise Tiffany how to connect an colored l.e.d. to light up on top of the engine or in the engine compartment for Tiffany to know every time the couplers are unlatching.

hello EML

OH that would be very coooool !!!!!!!! what  an wonderful idea !!!!!!

Tiffany

Bad mouthing the BCR been using it for 13 years if you don't have something nice to say keep it to yourself.

hello guys and gals........

So what can I do to save the boards , do a reset 18 ?  (UP-DATE) Aug,11th I put back the black BCR (no label) as this one is the one that holds the charge and the J&W Red one is defective (failed to hold charge) so for 35 dollars includes shipping charges.  I ran the NW-2 for half hour back and forth on short piece of track 55 inches long on my work bench and with the VOL. sound turned down to about half way ( it was on high).  The boards seems to have corrected itself and is now behaving like it suppose to (it surprised me !!) .   I would guess when the VOL. is set on high or full, it drains the BCR too fast then gets too low to start up the train ?   I think it does not need a reset 18.  I surely do not understand the way things work the way they do in strange ways !!!!! I guess I got lucky this time ?

Tiffany

What transformer are you using and did you read the instructions for this engine?  I do have to admit, you do need to be able to hear what a PS-1 board is doing to know if it is working right.  The main benefit of PS-1 was the sound system and controls that tell you what it is doing via sounds.  So for the hearing impaired, a PS-1 type engine can be issues.  G

GGG posted:

What transformer are you using and did you read the instructions for this engine?  I do have to admit, you do need to be able to hear what a PS-1 board is doing to know if it is working right.  The main benefit of PS-1 was the sound system and controls that tell you what it is doing via sounds.  So for the hearing impaired, a PS-1 type engine can be issues.  G

Hello GGG

I am using the Z4000, I am sure it is little bit messed up but I cannot hear the sounds at all this is why I am asking for help here. I still thinking of using the Dallee #400 so I would not have to mess with the PS-1 wondering if it working right since I cannot hear the sounds coming from it so I have no way of knowing.

Tiffany