How to Remove Shell from New Lionel 2-10-4 Texan

@gunrunnerjohn, any guidance on this would be greatly appreciated.

The Legacy Santa Fe Texas is MTH tooling. I own 3 of the MTH versions and Lionel hasn't changed pretty much anything. There are three screws that will remove the boiler from the chassis. Two behind the rear drivers and one under the pilot truck. I circled them in red.

@Lou1985 posted:

The Legacy Santa Fe Texas is MTH tooling. I own 3 of the MTH versions and Lionel hasn't changed pretty much anything. There are three screws that will remove the boiler from the chassis. Two behind the rear drivers and one under the pilot truck. I circled them in red.

Yep, as stated, I have those removed and am able to lift or separate the chassis from the boiler a distance of about 3/4 inch, then it appears as thought the flywheel or something in that area is preventing further separation.

@Frank R. posted:

Yep, as stated, I have those removed and am able to lift or separate the chassis from the boiler a distance of about 3/4 inch, then it appears as thought the flywheel or something in that area is preventing further separation.

In the picture you posted you mentioned removing the two screws at the rear of the cab, not the two at the bottom under it.

@Frank R. posted:

I have removed the 3 screws that attach the boiler to the chassis and can lift the boiler about 3/4 inch and it will go no further with what I consider maximum without breaking something.  It appears as though it is hanging up on the motor and/or flywheel as the boiler seems to pivot around that.

Often times there's a handrail or other detail sprue on the inside of the shell that catches on the motor and or wiring that may be zip tied to the motor or catches on the zip tie itself.

"Usually"  gently rocking the shell up and down, back and forth ,will get it past whatever is snagging.

I've experienced this on multiple locomotives over the years. The additional "bells and whistles" these days probably increase the issue.

Here are a couple videos showing how they will not separate and appear to be hanging up somewhere around the flywheel.

I need to figure out how to post videos here.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!Al6hnAC1RS...X9HE5hYqM5w?e=v1FCQs

https://1drv.ms/v/s!Al6hnAC1RS...L-1UCOrgkAN?e=0FZku3

Got it.  The flywheel plastic protector corners were hanging up on the shell.  I was just able to separate the chassis with a great amount of angle at the rear.  I was able to tighten the loose screw and the chassis when back into (and out) the shell with ease with the two protector corners trimmed.  Something new for Lionel on this engine?  See photo.

Thanks for the quick responses and the confirmation that there as not another attachment point that I was missing.

Hey Lou, @Lou1985  …..I see the trusty Cannon is employed here!…

Pat

@Frank R. posted:

Got it.  The flywheel plastic protector corners were hanging up on the shell.  I was just able to separate the chassis with a great amount of angle at the rear.  I was able to tighten the loose screw and the chassis when back into (and out) the shell with ease with the two protector corners trimmed.  Something new for Lionel on this engine?  See photo.

Thanks for the quick responses and the confirmation that there as not another attachment point that I was missing.

Something new for Lionel on this engine?  See photo.

at least the big L was using their knoggins, looks like that bracket keeps the wires off the giant spinny thingy……😉

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Hey Lou, @Lou1985  …..I see the trusty Cannon is employed here!…

Pat

I'm not surprised. If I ever got one it would get Pittman swapped before it ever hit the rails.

Frank, welcome to the club of warranty voiders. Good work, your T shirt is on the way.

Pete 👍

@harmonyards posted:

Something new for Lionel on this engine?  See photo.

at least the big L was using their knoggins, looks like that bracket keeps the wires off the giant spinny thingy……😉

Pat

It was probably added because in the MTH version the tach reader would have served that role.

@Norton posted:

Frank, welcome to the club of warranty voiders. Good work, your T shirt is on the way.

The fact that removing a shell voids a warranty is about the most anti-consumer position a company can take. Especially when the products are riddled with minor defects that additional shipping to and from North Carolina is just going to exacerbate.

Where is the “shaking my head” emoji on this platform?

I don’t know that it does void the warranty. I have been doing it all my life but many here believe that it does.

Pete

@rplst8 posted:

It was probably added because in the MTH version the tach reader would have served that role.

Thank you for clearing up that mystery for me, ……I had no clue,……🤔

Pat

@rplst8 posted:

The fact that removing a shell voids a warranty is about the most anti-consumer position a company can take.

Until Lionel employs a forensics team or puts some type of seal that breaks between the shell and chassis. There is really no way they would know unless you tell them.

I would also say, just don't strip out any screws and your fine too...but...new locos have had stripped and missing screws right out of the box. So....the ball is in our court.

@rplst8 posted:

The fact that removing a shell voids a warranty is about the most anti-consumer position a company can take. Especially when the products are riddled with minor defects that additional shipping to and from North Carolina is just going to exacerbate.

Where is the “shaking my head” emoji on this platform?

While I see your point, I've seen enough carnage from people taking the shell off locomotives that I can understand why that might be a consideration.

@RickO posted:

1. I've experienced this on multiple locomotives over the years.

2. The additional "bells and whistles" these days probably increase the issue.

1. As have we all...

2. Indeed. I wish these were offered with "economy" (without all that stuff) and "deluxe" (with) options.

I personally don't need/use all that extra stuff; I just want something that looks good, runs well and can be serviced by...me.  That's just my take. 🙂

Mark in Oregon 🎄

@harmonyards posted:

Thank you for clearing up that mystery for me, ……I had no clue,……🤔

Pat

Do I detect a bit of sarcasm?

I was just trying to make it clear for all those playing at home.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

While I see your point, I've seen enough carnage from people taking the shell off locomotives that I can understand why that might be a consideration.

Understood John, but if there’s carnage then don’t warranty it.

@rplst8 posted:

Understood John, but if there’s carnage then don’t warranty it.

Sometimes the carnage is just pinching a wire and cooking the rather expensive board.  It's certainly not a simple situation.  I just point out that not covering it if you take it apart isn't that unreasonable.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Sometimes the carnage is just pinching a wire and cooking the rather expensive board.  It's certainly not a simple situation.  I just point out that not covering it if you take it apart isn't that unreasonable.

I've purchased a few locomotives that "didn't work after I changed a smoke wick" because the person changing the smoke wick pinched a couple wires installing the shell and killed the electronics. Great deal for me, not so much for the seller.

I can see why Lionel would void a warranty claim if someone opens the shell, because not everyone who purchases a product is careful or even knows what they are doing.

@rplst8 posted:

Understood John, but if there’s carnage then don’t warranty it.

It’s easy for someone to sit back in an easy chair, and say how stuff should be done, …..it’s a different game when you’re the one doing the warranty claims…..if everyone was allowed to open up an engine for whatever reason, these manufacturers would be flooded with warranty work that’s out of their control,….as Lou mentioned, pinched, wires, blown up boards, the whole gambit……they’d be forever fixing things for free cause some klutz didn’t pay attention to what they were doing, ……you can’t hear a clicking noise in your car, take the engine apart, decide you couldn’t fix it, and carry it back to the dealer & say hear am I, ……think about it, ……I don’t blame them one bit …..it’s a blanket coverage CYA thing, …….if it was your way, it’d be Pandora’s box, the Genie out the bottle, the whole nine yards…..like Rick posted, if you gotta open it up, be smart about it, and hide from the cameras in your house……don’t ask, but don’t tell,….

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

..if everyone was allowed to open up an engine for whatever reason, these manufacturers would be flooded with warranty work that’s out of their control

Sorry Pat, in normal times I would agree. But until we get gear boxes that don't destroy themselves from design defects that can only be fixed by custom preventative maintenance, I don't think they have a leg to stand on.

I think they're likely flooded with warranty work everytime a new item gets delivered from overseas.

you can’t hear a clicking noise in your car, take the engine apart, decide you couldn’t fix it, and carry it back to the dealer & say hear am I, ……think about it,

I agree 100%. But on the other hand, if I want to install fog lights or a CD player in my car, the manufacturer cannot deny a warranty claim on a broken axle shaft or wheel bearing.

@rplst8 posted:

Sorry Pat, in normal times I would agree. But until we get gear boxes that don't destroy themselves from design defects that can only be fixed by custom preventative maintenance, I don't think they have a leg to stand on.

I think they're likely flooded with warranty work everytime a new item gets delivered from overseas.

I agree 100%. But on the other hand, if I want to install fog lights or a CD player in my car, the manufacturer cannot deny a warranty claim on a broken axle shaft or wheel bearing.

It boils down to this;  if you open it up, technically, it’s a voided warranty. In the end, if you’re not happy with a particular mfr., STOP BUYING THE PRODUCT……

Pat