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Got this from a liar on ebay.  It only takes once to learn me. No more ebay electronics.

Here is the deal.  Was supposed to be P2,  seller claimed it ran great on his layout.

Lie number 1.

Lie number 2.

The bell button operates the bell, but so does the Horn/ Whistle button on the Z controller.

Is there a Bell/ Horn reset combination or is it a board issue?

 

Sounds are clear, smoke is great, but noisy, replaced head lamp with known good bulb, but not working.

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

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That engine was made with PS-1, Loco Sound and PS-2.   If the engine is running and you press Whistle do you still get a bell?  Or only in neutral?  As far as front bulb.  The screw in type can be frustrating. Some times the center of the bulb doesn't make contact in the holder.  It either has to be screwed in tight, or add a drop of solder.

For the bulb, if PS-1 it is a 16-18V bulb, if Loco Sounds or PS-2 it would be a 6V bulb.  Maybe you installed the wrong voltage bulb.   G

Drummer,

If you see QSI on the sound board, it is a PS1 (Proto Sounds) engine. They also have a removable sound chip in the middle of the board.

PS1 engines originally came to be run with a PW ZW that didn't have a bell button. So they ring the bell in neutral and blow the whistle running. They can also be set to blow the whistle in neutral with reset 25.

Actually its Feature 25:

 

PROGRAMMING FOR HORN IN NEUTRAL

OPERATION

If you are operating your engine with a separate bell button and want to

blow your horn when your engine is in neutral, you will need to program

ProtoSounds to do so as the factory setting only allows the horn to blow in

forward or reverse. To do this, enter RESET and go to Feature 25. (See the

section Using RESET To Program ProtoSounds® on page 17.) Once in

Feature 25, press the transformer whistle button and wait for ProtoSounds

to sound a bell ding(s).

Continue pressing the whistle

button until ProtoSounds

sounds two bell dings

(signifying that ProtoSounds

has been programmed to

sound the horn in neutral).

Turn the throttle off and then

on again to .Lock-In" your

selection. Now, whenever

you are in neutral, you can blow the horn with the transformer whistle

button. To reset ProtoSounds to its original factory setting of no horn in

neutral, repeat the above procedure but keep pressing the whistle button in

Feature 25 until ProtoSounds only dings once instead of twice.

 

 

What most seem to be ignoring, using the OP's catalog number, THIS IS NOT a Protosound 1 or 2 locomotive.  This is a Locosound locomotive, it has no feature programming.  You can turn the cruse on and off, and lock the direction, that is it.  It doesn't matter what was listed on eBay, the catalog number tells us what it really is.  Here is the manual.  Now it's up the the OP to contact teh seller and call them out on the incorrect listing and let eBay know.

Ok.

Got my LOCOSOUND ENGINE FROM 30-4095-0 Christmas Set

http://mthtrains.com/30-4095-0. Delivered 2003.

The horn sounds in neutral

The smoke chuffs in sync and even blows smoke rings.

It has not been ran for at least 5 years.  Sounds loud and crystal clear.

Runs smooth and even.

It is the set that got me into MTH O scale and away from my HO DCC collecting.

O yeah, original battery.

Last edited by 1drummer

that second vid with that 30-1159 is definitely PS1. in order to fire the coupler, (from another railking protosounds 1 manual);

"

locomotive tender is equipped
with a coil-wound ProtoCoupler for remote uncoupling action. Because
the ProtoCoupler is controlled through ProtoSoundÆís microprocessor, it
doesn't require an uncoupling track section or modification to your layout
to function. The three simple steps below are required to operate the
coupler.
1. Put your engine in NEUTRAL and turn the throttle all the way up.
2. Press the transformer whistle button to "Arm" the coupler. (You
will hear a Clank").
3. After arming the coupler, press the whistle button again to open
the coupler.
When the knuckle fires
open you will hear the buzzing
of the coil energizing and the sound of air lines coming apart.
The coupler doesn't have to be fired in NEUTRAL.
Once the coupler is armed it can be fired in Forward, Neutral or Reverse.
However, you may find that the
coupler doesn't open when
firing the coupler at high
speeds. Reduce the voltage
setting on your transformer if
this occurs and run your engine
at a slower speed before firing
the coupler. If the coupler
continues to open erratically, try
lubricating the knuckle with
light oil
Last edited by Penn-Pacific

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