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I posted this on the 3 rail Forum also.  I have an MTH NYC Hudson 30-1025 which was originally PS1, but was upgraded to PS2.  It was running fine on O-31 MTH track.  Before Christmas I built a layout with a loop of O-36 and another of O-48 Fastrack.  I just reconfigured my layout by adding 2 switches between the two loops.  The Hudson ran fine on the O-48, but when I switch it to the O-36, it stops and shuts down.  Checking the plug from the tender to the cab, I felt it was loose, and upon the slightest tightening, the Hudson would immediately fire back up.  Now I see that it is doing it whenever I run on O-36, but not ever on O-48.  It is now obvious that when it is on the smaller diameter curve the cable is pulling the plug ever so slightly loose so that the engine shuts down, but the headlight stays on.  Every time I press the plug back it comes back to life and runs like a champ.

 

Admittedly, I am not able to push the plug back in with a lot of force with my right hand fingers only.  I can't hold anything tightly with my left hand that was operated on last Monday.  My right hand needs surgery later, as well.  I had my wife try, but it still comes loose only on the O-36.  I also looked at the plug and socket, and all the pins look straight and I don't see any visible wear.  Maybe I don't know what a good one looks like, because I have purchased all my locomotives used.  ;-)

 

Has anyone encountered this on any MTH locomotives, and what did you do to make it stay tight?  I hope I don't have to get a new cable, plug, and socket.  I will show a couple of photos with it loose.  To the eye, I can't tell when it is loose, only by touch.

 

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Mark:  From the photos, it looks like there should be sufficient cable length to go through the curves without disconnecting.  Understandably, you are having strength problems with your hands.  Have your wife use a flat bladed screwdriver against the rear of the connecting hub to the loco and press it in hard.  It just may not be all the way in.  Use the screwdriver   flat side sideways against the rear of the wire hub.  It will act like a lever with her wrist as the pivot point.  Can any more of the tether be pulled out from the tender?  The current length should be sufficient, but you never really know until you try.  Bob S.

Originally Posted by Bob Severin:

Mark:  From the photos, it looks like there should be sufficient cable length to go through the curves without disconnecting.  Understandably, you are having strength problems with your hands.  Have your wife use a flat bladed screwdriver against the rear of the connecting hub to the loco and press it in hard.  It just may not be all the way in.  Use the screwdriver   flat side sideways against the rear of the wire hub.  It will act like a lever with her wrist as the pivot point.  Can any more of the tether be pulled out from the tender?  The current length should be sufficient, but you never really know until you try.  Bob S.

Bob, that is excellent!  I will get her to try that tomorrow.

Thank you!

Mark, also check to see that the hole in the shell is lined up with the connector, giving enough room around the connector so the plug on the cable can mate up like it should.

 

I had this happen on an engine I did a PS2 upgrade on, I had to enlarge the hole a bit (used a file) so there was plenty of room for the plugs to mate.

 

I recall that the outside edges of the plug housing on the engine couldn't be seen all the way around (slightly higher than the hole) and this was causing the cable not to be plugged in all the way.

 

What I just described was a simple alignment problem and easy fix.

I had a similar problem with a Railking Mohawk.  I cut a piece of cardstock to about 1/16" wide and 3/4" long and inserted it in the socket along with the plug so it's positioned on the side of the plug between it and the inside of the socket.  This snugs it up just enough to keep it from coming loose on the curves.  You can also color it with a black marker so it is not noticeable.     

Another possible fix is to pull more of the wire out of the tender for a larger loop.  I find the smaller the loop, the more torque that is exerted on the connector.

 

I've actually had good luck with a straight tether and having a slot in the tender so that the wire can move side to side a bit.  That seems to put less side load on the connector and looks better as well.

 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Sounds like you need to learn to work one-handed.

 

Hopefully by summer my hands will be healed and my only problem will be arthritis.  I get cortisone shots in the knuckles Every once in a while for that! 

 

Nothing is so easy as the job you imagine someone else doing.

I like that John!!

Last edited by Mark Boyce

I think it has been a long enough test to report in what fixed it.  Knock on wood; my hard head! 

It looks like Bob Severin's suggestion that it just wasn't plugged in tight enough solved the problem.  I did not get to it until I had taken my wife to the hospital for surgery, so I didn't ask her to try pushing it in harder with the screwdriver when she got home.  I checked all the things I could visually, and all seemed okay.  It has been 3 weeks since my surgery, so I held the locomotive steady with my operated on hand and pushed the plug with the screwdriver with the one that still needs surgery.  Lo and behold, the plug cinched in another 1/16" or so!  What a wimp I have become!!  I have run it around the O36 track enough times that I think it has been proven tight.  Last summer, I was able to seat those plugs with no problem.  I should be able to do it again this summer.

 

Thank you everyone for your suggestions.  I will keep all of them in mind for the future.  Since I just buy used locomotives, one never knows when I will need these tips!  

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