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Just found out the Hiawathas are out. I was disappointed to see the headlight. The top headlight is now showing it to be a mars light. And the lower headlight is what the engines had in later years. It was red and a mars light. I do like the pop off valve steam as many of you know the engines had only air horns, and I am glad to see that option is there to use the diesel horn only. Just wondering what all the comments are.

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Just found out the Hiawathas are out. I was disappointed to see the headlight. The top headlight is now showing it to be a mars light. And the lower headlight is what the engines had in later years. It was red and a mars light. I do like the pop off valve steam as many of you know the engines had only air horns, and I am glad to see that option is there to use the diesel horn only. Just wondering what all the comments are.

Check out this thread on the new hiawatha, they are gorgeous! The pop off steam is cool and different than whistle smoke, which makes it fun.

https://ogrforum.com/topic/lio...7#188663164664210617

Yes, the Mars light is the top light but I'm sure it can be fixed by switching the two plugs on a board inside the locomotive but I haven't attempted to open it yet. I'm going to wait to see what Lionel says first.

I've been told the fix is fairly easy. I have not tried mine yet, but am strongly thinking I will. I thought in an earlier thread someone contacted Lionel and got brushed off, so warranty or not, we will fix it outside of Lionel. Also, as a point of interest, how is Lionel going to know if someone opened up the engine which they say will void the warranty?  Just a ploy for them to get more business?

I've been told the fix is fairly easy. I have not tried mine yet, but am strongly thinking I will. I thought in an earlier thread someone contacted Lionel and got brushed off, so warranty or not, we will fix it outside of Lionel. Also, as a point of interest, how is Lionel going to know if someone opened up the engine which they say will void the warranty?  Just a ploy for them to get more business?

Really?  A ploy.  A little dramatic isn't it?  I can't imagine how many locomotives they get back that some customer thought they could fix it and totally messed it up.  That's why they prefer you not do the work.  Sure there are folks that can do the work themselves but that probably half of the train folks.

If you're comfortable by all means go for it but to think there is some ploy for "free" warranty repair is a bid ridiculous.

Last edited by MartyE

@MartyE, Marty, did you post a video on these engines(or rather the one you got) not to long ago? I have to rewatch that video as I didn't have the sound up as I didn't have quite enough time at the time.

As far as whistles and air horns, this should be asked on real trains forums. I do know from someone saying that in certain parts of the country in the 40's I think(mid or later), that it was mandated because of safety, but again, you better ask over there.

Well we all have our opinion

Yep we do.

@MartyE, Marty, did you post a video on these engines(or rather the one you got) not to long ago? I have to rewatch that video as I didn't have the sound up as I didn't have quite enough time at the time.

As far as whistles and air horns, this should be asked on real trains forums. I do know from someone saying that in certain parts of the country in the 40's I think(mid or later), that it was mandated because of safety, but again, you better ask over there.

Great video Marty, unboxing is flawless in that it should be as easy as that. Who wants to watch someone take five minutes or more struggling to cut open the box, then another bunch of minutes admiring the packaging. Always read over the manual as well, because there might be something you need to know you know. I had passed on these but settled for a Weaver Hudson which I intend to get upgraded at some point.

The thing I do like about these other than the streamlining is the wheels. They went to town on making sure they did these up nice. From the pilot, drivers, trailing and tender, they did an outstanding job. Thanks Marty.

I just did the swap between the headlight and MARS light. It was very simple. Once you identify the light board, connectors are labeled. On my board the 2 connectors labeled “Green” are your marker lights, in between those was my headlight. The MARS was on the opposite side of the board, it was the only connector not labeled. I swapped the headlight connector with the MARS connector.  I did do a quick test before putting the shell back on. Everything works flawlessly. I just need a solution for the red lens, for now I used a red label and it’s fine but will eventually do something better. I’m happy with the results.

@Xavi_SF3600 posted:

I just did the swap between the headlight and MARS light. It was very simple. Once you identify the light board, connectors are labeled. On my board the 2 connectors labeled “Green” are your marker lights, in between those was my headlight. The MARS was on the opposite side of the board, it was the only connector not labeled. I swapped the headlight connector with the MARS connector.  I did do a quick test before putting the shell back on. Everything works flawlessly. I just need a solution for the red lens, for now I used a red label and it’s fine but will eventually do something better. I’m happy with the results.

When the original 844s came out without a red lens, I just used a red sharpie to tint it.  I think out turned out fine.

UP 844 Red Lens

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Last edited by MartyE
@Xavi_SF3600 posted:

I just did the swap between the headlight and MARS light. It was very simple. Once you identify the light board, connectors are labeled. On my board the 2 connectors labeled “Green” are your marker lights, in between those was my headlight. The MARS was on the opposite side of the board, it was the only connector not labeled. I swapped the headlight connector with the MARS connector.  I did do a quick test before putting the shell back on. Everything works flawlessly. I just need a solution for the red lens, for now I used a red label and it’s fine but will eventually do something better. I’m happy with the results.

Thanks for that additional information to make the swap.

@Xavi_SF3600 posted:

I just did the swap between the headlight and MARS light. It was very simple. Once you identify the light board, connectors are labeled. On my board the 2 connectors labeled “Green” are your marker lights, in between those was my headlight. The MARS was on the opposite side of the board, it was the only connector not labeled. I swapped the headlight connector with the MARS connector.  I did do a quick test before putting the shell back on. Everything works flawlessly. I just need a solution for the red lens, for now I used a red label and it’s fine but will eventually do something better. I’m happy with the results.

Just to add my experience and detail. To remove the shell is 7 screws.

First remove the single screw that holds the front coupler cover blanking plate

Then there are 4 total screws, 2 at the front, 2 at the rear holding the shell on. But before you lift the shell, at the back, there are 2 more screws holding the back wall and doors of the cab area on that get removed. Carefully grab the cab wall back and side out straight back - it's a diecast metal piece with plastic doors so do not drop it.

Now the entire engine frame can lift up from the shell.

There are 4 harness wire connections. 2 for the smoke unit(s), 1 colored wire set for the lights distro pcb, and the antenna connection for TMCC/Legacy

The part that you really care about is again that lighting distro boards, it's simply swapping the 2 LED wiring connections.

Borrowing this picture from @MichRR714 edited to show some orientation details and arrows at the 2 plugs you are swapping. This distro board basically is just behind the smoke unit in the middle of the upper shell roof. I used a pair of fine tweezers to grab and swap the connectors.

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