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So I'm being a bit silly but I want to put in a fan driven unit into my Williams Berk. 

 

Pic 1: In order to get smoke out of the stack I've got to use an additional tube to get it from the hole to the stack I wonder if this will compromise the output?

 

Pic 2: Using a improvised micro to connect the the three pin female.  Middle is power and the other two go where?

 

Pic 3:  Shows the inside of the unit - I'll be hot gluing the unit in here.

 

Pic 4: Shows the two female plugs one for the light and one for the smoke unit

 

Not shown is the switch I'll putting in to turn the thing off.

 

Questions:

 

Can I just plug into the original plug for the smoke unit to work? is there enough power? - or just tie the middle (red) main to the roller pickup?

 

What do I do for the side wires on the three pin - do they need to connect to anything? Seems like one of them should connect to something.

 

Will the tube work for output of smoke and input of fluid?

 

IMG_0255

IMG_0254

IMG_0253

IMG_0252

Attachments

Images (4)
  • IMG_0255: rubber tube to get smoke out stack
  • IMG_0254: wire harness added
  • IMG_0253: where the unit will go
  • IMG_0252: plugs for light and old unit
Original Post

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That looks like the Lionel "dumb" smoke unit, so my advice is for that model.  The two outside legs on the 3-pin connector are connected together, so you just use either one.  You can connect that to track voltage, the 6VDC from the Williams board for the Seuthe smoke unit isn't enough to get decent output.

 

I don't see the tube being a problem, I've run longer ones than that with no issues.  As long as it's a reasonably downhill run, you can add smoke fluid through it.  I'd give it a puff of air after adding fluid to clear any bubbles from the tube.

 

When I do these, I try to mount via brass bracket.  Also you can buy brass tubing to fit the stack.  Trial and error to get the correct fit.

 

The smoke unit will be grounded if you mount to the chassis, then you only need center rail power wire into the unit.  You can run it from a small switch so you have on/off control.  G

I tried tubing, it melted slightly changing size, wept oil. Then I used a flanged bronze bushing. It seemed to isolate the tube from the heat better. First JB welded the bushing flange down sealing around the hole, then added a tube. It works, but the tube being smaller than the "stock" opening, it used to work better unmodified. This learned, on another, I drilled the intake hole a bit, and the exhaust a lot, and repeated with a larger bushing, and tube, ensuring that all tubing was larger than "stock". Wow! What a difference! It smokes much better than "stock", and is easier to fill with the bigger tube. 

Putting in an off, or hi/low switch while she's down might be a thought.

One thing I have always done is ti jumper the two outside pins together on top of the smoke unit board, and I would run one wire to grpund.  It will work better if you can find a plug that will plug in to the bottom of the circut board, then run the center pin to your pickup and the outer wire to ground.  The reason for the jumper is the currant draw can burn the trace on the board into.  Plus it is a simple to do, For the tube I used brass.  If you have to use a flexible tube use a high temp tubing so it will not melt.  I hope this helps.

Ron

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