I recently purchased a Flashing Crossing 6-12052 and it came without the 2 pcs of insulated track that activate it. I contacted them via e-mail and without talking to me they sent 2 pcs of 5" regular Fastrack. This obviously will not work. I took my Dremel tool and cut one of the outside rails on each pc to see if that would work. With it switched on it just chimes all the time. Is there something else I need to do to convert these to being isolated?
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#1 ensure the cut rail portions on either side is properly connected to the crossing and line up to the sensing rail side.
Underneath the crossing tells you which outside rail side is the sensing rail and MUST be isolated with the external cut rail tracks and no track in between can have the shorting bus bar.
#2 any pieces of track in between the cut and the crossing need the shorting bus bar removed. Your cut 5 inch pieces are KNOWN to also have the bus bar and if that end is placed towards the crossing you defeat the insulated rail and cut section.
Seen around the 7:50 mark or so in the linked video
Key point, this is the same as an insulated rail. It actually has to be isolated so it can sense the wheels shorting it to the other rail.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRE-W-0hUr4
Also this video specific to the grade crossing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c38daqUm8i4
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Again, possibly part of the fail is this:
"they sent 2 pcs of 5" regular Fastrack. This obviously will not work. I took my Dremel tool and cut one of the outside rails on each pc to see if that would work."
Again, known fact, 5 inch pieces that were normal non-cut insulating pieces ALSO from the factory had a shorting bus bar.
Between not removing that bus bar, and or it being on the wrong side of the cut or break, and or not aligning the cut rail on both sides of the crossing with the sensing rail marks, you effectively short the sensing rail to outside rail of the rest of the track and thus no longer a sensing rail. It senses there is a train all the time.