Skip to main content

Hi All,

I started my layout using Atlas track and switches. Due to the difficulty in getting additional Atlas switches I decided to start adding Ross switches with DZ-2500, which I will be able to operate with my 990 system.

The switches arrived yesterday and I was surprised to discover that they cannot be operated manually (my fault). I have young children and wish to make the layout user friendly for them.

Also, in reading many past posts on the DZ-2500 several forum members report difficulty in getting the switch to interface correctly with there 990. Is this still the case AND is there a good/detailed instructional video for correctly wiring these switches.

One other question please! If I stay with the Ross switches should I consider changing out my five Atlas switches in order to stay consistent throughout my layout?

Thanks for any thoughts!

Happy Roads.

JohnJr

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I think the DZ-2500 can work flawlessly, but errors in programming and data driver requirements can interfere.

I think the DZ-1000s are simpler and the Lionel tmcc accessories for switch control can control them easily...so I guess if there is some additional feature with one or the other, then go with that.

I've used both the 2500's and the 1000's.  i prefer the 1000. i also use the legacy 990 and i use lionel sc2 for switch control. (my caps key is broken, sorry) one thing to note is that the 2500 is designed to move slowly to more closely mirror how a real railroad switch moves . the 1000 is fast and has a swift snap! when it operates. the 2500 is turtle slow comparatively.

   it's been my experience that  the 2500 will work as advertised as long as it it wired up properly. again, i prefer the 1000 and it's not close. i would want the 1000 even if someone else is paying for it! i also see no reason to change out your existing atlas switches to stay consistent. if you find the ross more visually appealing then i'd say yes. to me, this is a matter of personal choice.  now, i will say that the ross switches are notorious for very high customer satisfaction. i use them on my layout and they operate flawlessly. ross has switches figured out!

    again, i'm sorry about my caps key. good luck to you!

If you have the DZ1000 switch machines you can add the TMCC control with the Lionel SC-2 controller.  This is dual control both the DZ 1001 push buttons and The SC-2 controller.  As noted the DZ2500 require a data bus wiring and the driver that attaches to the TMCC command base.

SC-2 installed along with the push buttons. Of the (7) switches wired, there are (4) sets of cross overs.  (6) Switches, including the (4) cross over sets, are controlled by the SC-2, (the maximum number of switches an SC-2 can be wired for.)

This video shows the switching is being done with the Handheld Cab1 remote, and SC-2 controller.  There is automatic non-derail feature added.  Click on the triangle to access the video.

 

 

There are other consideration/differences between the two switches. The DZ 2500's are slow moving. DZ1000's are a snap-action switch.

Last edited by Mike CT

I couldn't find an install video either. The Z stuff wiring diagrams are available from their website although you have to poke around a bit on the site. And study them. As mentioned, the Lionel switch controllers are easier to understand the wiring and will control the 1000s. As far as the prototypical switch action, that can help or hurt if you want to switch at the last second.

 

Last edited by cjack

I used DZ-2500 switch machines on my first layout and used a CAB1 to control them.  It takes a little more time to set up the DZ-2500 switch machine to get it to work properly, but once it was working I had no problem.  I’m installing Ross switches with DZ-2500s on my current layout.

 

I like that the DZ-2500 is easier to wire for command control.  Using DZ-1000s and SC-2 controllers require running wires from the controller to each switch.  With the DZ-2500, all you need to do is run a three wire bus around the layout, two for power and one for the TMCC signal.*  Below is the schematic I refer to when wiring my single switches.  I do not use the DZ-1008 relay on my #4 or #5 (regular) switches, but found I need it on my other switches, especially the curved ones, to prevent stalling.

 

 

Ross-DZ2500

 

*(don’t you hate asterisks) To help troubleshoot a specific DZ-2500 failure, I insert an on/off switch every 6-10 switch machines.  I’ve yet to experience this failure.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Ross-DZ2500

I think the DZ 2500s are great.  Wiring is simple and eliminating the SC2 saves money.   I bench test mine first because I have gotten some bad ones right out of the package, but once I test to confirm they work I have had very few problems with them.  

 

I only operate mine with my CAB2, but you can install the enclosed push button on a control panel to make the operation of the turn out more user friendly for little ones.  I know that is not "manual" but it would give the kids something to interact with if using the remote is too complicated.

Just as an FYI for all if you have a DZ-2500 that gets jammed up.

 

the cure is to back off both mounting switch screws and back it off slightly then re-tighten screws see if jamming is cured.

 

you do know that the push button controller can be wired in as well as using the DZ-2001A data driver.

 

it shows in the instructions how to do it they can be used for children to work the switches at an easy reach for them.

 

now as to manual switch control if these switches for children are all reachable I would highly recommend caboose industries ground throws simply put they work.

 

Last edited by StPaul

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×