Is there a track cleaner that actually works?

Believe it or not I used WD40 to clean my American Flyer track and it came out superb.

We use Denatured Alcohol, sold at Lowes/Home Depot, or at a store near you, and we wipe it all off after cleaning the track.  I have Gargraves/Atlas O/Ross Custom/some K-Line 072/027 trackwork. Denatured alcohol evaporates quickly and is really great. We do all our track cleaning by hand, fairly often. When you run steamers smoking like bandits, track gets very dirty.  Also we use Bright Boy erasers, scotch bright pads, but not on the blackened middle rails, it will take the Black off. Happy track cleaning.  Happy Railroading 

I use 91% alcohol on Atlas O track. Removing dirt and the accumulation from traction tires requires pressure, and even not-too-dirty track will quickly blacken a cleaning cloth. The solution is to rotate the cleaning cloth frequently. I think manual cleaning is the best way to get track clean. Not fun but necessary.

MELGAR

I've been using a centerline track cleaner for many years, does a decent job inside the tunnels as long as I change the rollers often, all accessible track i do by hand with alcohol.

A block of wood , a shop cloth, and alcohol.  changing the position of the cloth frequently, Is the way I do it.  Never could see how a dirty track pad car got track clean.   However in my tunnels I use a track car changing the rollers each pass through a tunnel, I use a lot of rollers and wash them after use.  

yup 91% alcohol does the job

Mineral spirits (paint thinner) also works in lieu of alcohol.  Will clean grease and grime off the rails, but your cleaning cloth gets VERY dirty VERY quickly.  I generally use higher quality paper towels and pitch them when I am done.

There was, or have been, a couple threads(more than a couple lol) debating this topic. Especiallyin light of Lionel's 16-17 Track & Power magazine recommending  a "Citrus based cleaner" as isopropyl alcohol doesn't help with "electrical conductivity" and MTH recommend "denatured alcohol"(Quotes from Lionel & MTH, respectively).

One night, I picked 9 random pieces of track that I use on my layout, and made 3 groups with each having a tubular piece and 2 realtrax pieces. For each group, I used gray, gritty type track eraser followed by the yellow track eraser found in Lionel maitenance packs. Wiped over with dry rag as, despite the claims, there was still "residue". Then...

Group 1:  I applied 91% Isopropyl to 3 pieces with a soft rag, went over it with a scotch brite, and then used compressed air to finish the drying/get any other residue off.

Group 2: I applied denatured alcohol to 3 pieces with a soft rag and followed the same process as the Isopropyl

Group 3: Went over the track with a dry scotcchbrite pad. Applied track cleaner(I'll tell you the name in 20min when I go down to my layout) on a soft rag. Wiped off any excess with another rag and used compressed air to ensure the excess was gone. I then let it set over night as instructed.

The next day I went down and checked, I ended up going over Group 2 with Isopropyl alcohol as it left a film on the track. For group 3, there was a very light film on the track that i just got wipedd of with a rag and track eraser.

If you want to do a serious track cleaning for tubular- I suggest track eraser, dry scotchbrite, then apply 91% isopropyl with a scotchbrite pad,(if it's really dirty, go over the inner railswith a q-tip and the tp of the rails as well), make sure you clean the track pins as well andI'd suggest putting some type of conducta-lube ONLY on the track pins! Thendry off the track with a rag and compressed air.

Regarding denatured alcohol, I only use that to clean the wheels of my engines, specifically the wheels with traction tires as recomended by MTH b/c regular Isopropyl will dry out the neoprene.

Here is a track cleaner that really works.  I can attest to it because the G&O crew has been using it to clean the track on our garden railroad for ten years.  The G&O's Atlas track gets very dirty between run sessions just because it is outdoor.  Trains will not move unless the track is cleaned on the entire layout before each operation session.  Many areas of the layout are difficult to reach without getting on a ladder and climbing on top of the display.

It is the North East Trains track cleaning car.  See the photos below.  This track cleaner has two cloth pads that are attached to weights that ride on the track as shown in the photo.  

This is the way we use it.  We have a diesel push two track cleaning cars over every layout track.  We can do this before an operating session because all locomotives and cars are removed at the end of each day.  Pulling the track cleaning car does not work because the locomotive stalls on dirty track.  Pushing the track cleaning car cleans the track ahead of the locomotive so that it will continue to run.  We use a diesel just because they have better traction than steamers and a claw front coupler.  

We soak the leading pad of the lead track cleaning car with Goo Gone.   The second pad is soaked with 91% isopropyl alcohol.  The pads of the trailing track cleaning car are left dry.  

The G&O crew has tried many different track cleaning products and combinations of products during the last ten years.  The combination of Goo Gone and 91% isopropyl alcohol works best.  Products like WD-40, CRC-25, etc., work well to get the track clean but make the rails slippery for both steamers and diesels.  Goo Gone works well by itself but it works better when combined with 91% alcohol on the trailing pad.  This combination of cleaners has never harmed the G&O's Atlas track.  

The pads can be hand or machine washed.  Hand washing is preferred because it leaves the pads intact.  Machine washing eventually causes them to loose shape.  We have been using the same pads for 10 years with hand washing.  We have had to replace some machine washed pads.   We have had to replace only one truck on one track cleaning car during the last 10 years.  

I use the same technique on my home layout.  It only needs the track cleaned about once every 6 months.   NH Joe

Here is a link to the website:   http://netrains.com/trackcleaningcarbase.aspx

 I purchased a Trainman 2000 years ago and it helps between the hands on method

Al

New Haven Joe posted:

Here is a track cleaner that really works.  I can attest to it because the G&O crew has been using it to clean the track on our garden railroad for ten years.  The G&O's Atlas track gets very dirty between run sessions just because it is outdoor.  Trains will not move unless the track is cleaned on the entire layout before each operation session.  Many areas of the layout are difficult to reach without getting on a ladder and climbing on top of the display.

It is the North East Trains track cleaning car.  See the photos below.  This track cleaner has two cloth pads that are attached to weights that ride on the track as shown in the photo.  

This is the way we use it.  We have a diesel push two track cleaning cars over every layout track.  We can do this before an operating session because all locomotives and cars are removed at the end of each day.  Pulling the track cleaning car does not work because the locomotive stalls on dirty track.  Pushing the track cleaning car cleans the track ahead of the locomotive so that it will continue to run.  We use a diesel just because they have better traction than steamers and a claw front coupler.  

We soak the leading pad of the lead track cleaning car with Goo Gone.   The second pad is soaked with 91% isopropyl alcohol.  The pads of the trailing track cleaning car are left dry.  

The G&O crew has tried many different track cleaning products and combinations of products during the last ten years.  The combination of Goo Gone and 91% isopropyl alcohol works best.  Products like WD-40, CRC-25, etc., work well to get the track clean but make the rails slippery for both steamers and diesels.  Goo Gone works well by itself but it works better when combined with 91% alcohol on the trailing pad.  This combination of cleaners has never harmed the G&O's Atlas track.  

The pads can be hand or machine washed.  Hand washing is preferred because it leaves the pads intact.  Machine washing eventually causes them to loose shape.  We have been using the same pads for 10 years with hand washing.  We have had to replace some machine washed pads.   We have had to replace only one truck on one track cleaning car during the last 10 years.  

I use the same technique on my home layout.  It only needs the track cleaned about once every 6 months.   NH Joe

Here is a link to the website:   http://netrains.com/trackcleaningcarbase.aspx

I like that process, I always use Goo Gone for wheel cleaning. Thanks

I used 91 percent alcohol for years.  Then I read this article about polar vrs. non-polar solvents.  Now I use mineral spirits.  Alcohol will actually attract dirt according to the article.

https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws...ne/index.html?page=9

Looks like that North East Trains car that New Haven Joe recommended will do a good job, but I use an R&L Lines track cleaning car that I got years ago for track that I can’t reach by hand.  It uses mini foam paint rollers that you can get at hardware stores.  It works well unless you get a batch of cheap rollers that won’t roll well.

http://rllines.com/

Thanks for the replies, but I was asking about a track cleaner as in a motorized or rolling-stock item pushed by an engine, like the NE trains model (which I once had and used). The RRlines model looks interesting in that it uses rollers, which in theory would clean longer stretches of tracks than pads. Either one though necessitates changing of pads/rollers every x amount of feet. There may be no getting away from that.

The 3rd criteria for an automated track cleaner would be: regular application of solvent/cleaner to the pads or rollers via some sort of tank or reservoir.

We tried a home-spun version of the Centerline car. We even made two so we could double-head them for more cleaning power. They did not work.

Just not enough downward pressure on the rails to be effective.

We use Goo-gone applied to an old, folded t-shirt. Three fingers firmly press the soaked rag against the three rails and the black is removed easily.  

Hi`,i have used Lionel`s No. 3927 track cleaning car for years and it always works for me, i usually make 2 or 3 passes around my layout, what i like most about it, it has its own tank, so you can use what ever you like in it, except things like Goo Gone or anything that is thick liquid, hope this helps, Phil

We've used the Trackman 2000 at the club, and I have one at home as well.  Works quite well, and I don't feel the need to have wet cleaning.

Another vote for CRC 2-26 cleaner. See link above.

I'm extremely pleased with my Trackman 2000.

After I used up the pads that came with it, I substituted Scotch purple pads on it. They likewise do a very credible job. Btw, from what I've seen, Pat's Trains track cleaner car is similar to the Trackman 2000.

I use the purple pads as well, they last a long time before they lose their effectiveness.

I second the trackman 2000, it is my go to tool for this task

I have used two CRC products, Brakleen and electronic cleaner, on a NE trains cars.  Get's a lot of dirt off.  Be sure to get the red cans, not the green cans (Calif), if available in your area. 

I did have Brakleen warp a plastic truck, which I replaced with a PW Lionel truck.  The Brakleen also evaporates quickly, which means one lap & pad is dry.   Never had thought about washing them.vvThe CRC QD electronic cleaner is plastic safe.

Another happy user of the North East Trains Track Cleaning Car and Goo Gone and CRC-2-26

I agree the centerline cars need some resistance to be really effective. I added quarters to the rollers and it helped. I also experimented with one car to add bolts to push down for additional resistance which works well. Then I built two others of my own where I add a roller with one quarter inside of it to add resistance and they scrub really well. You want the cars to scrub the track and not just roll over the dirt. What I like about the Centerline setup is that when it hits something like a point, it will roll forward over it easily. Here are some photos to show a little train I built up.

You can see the difference in how much more the cars pick up with resistance added to them. The first and last cars in the photos use only quarters added. I add alcohol to the first roller but run the rest of the train dry. The first car in the last photo is a magnet car.

Nice mods Christopher!

We also tried adding weight to the enclosed rollers (BB's, quarters, etc.) and we tried applying more downward pressure to the rollers with thick rubber bands.

The rollers got very dirty, but, unfortunately, a lot of dirt remained on the rails. There just wasn't enough pressure applied to remove it. 

I used alcohol once.  Even though I had windows open to vent fumes, I woke up next day with a headache (hangover).

I don't see how a pad rolling over the dirt, rather than sliding, can really remove dirt.

One caution when using abrasives. Any fine steel dust will get on wheels if you have magnetic traction.  Also might get into bearings

Try www.mnpinc.com.  I’ve looked at this track cleaning car in the orange hall at York. The pads are motorized. I don’t own one but they look very good. 

Graz, I tried rubber bands also and they were useless and they wore through.

RJR, in the cars that I built, the rollers scrub. 

If you look at the hopper cars with the two rollers in them you will see the solution for scrubbing. The resistance on the top roller actually keeps the bottom roller from rolling until it hits something like a point on the switch. In that case you really want the roller to roll over, instead of snagging. You can add weight to the top roller to suit how much you want the bottom roller to roll or scrub. I found that the top roller gives a lot of resistance and I only added 1 or 2 quarters to work.

The photos above really tell the story of the difference between the rollers without resistance and the rollers with resistance. They all ran the same route at the same time. Sometimes I don't even change the rollers that don't have resistance in the setup. You can see they stay fairly clean.

I also use the Centerline car with Goo Gone.  I also add as many quarters as I can.  If the roller won't roll - that's too many quarters.  Simply take some out.  I have many rollers that I swap out as I go.  I also leave as many cars on the train as it will pull.  That also cleans the wheels on the cars. 

Goo Gone is what Centerline recommends using.  Has always been.  Still is.  I don't remove the Goo Gone with any other chemicals afterwards.  The Goo Gone leaves a protective film.  I haven't cleaned my track in over a year.  If you wipe your hand over my rails right now there is no film/oil residue, and you won't get any black off them.  I will never go back to any other type of cleaning.  This is proven to be the perfect method for me.  

The electrical conductivity between the track and the wheels is amazing after you perform this.  

By-the-way.  The talk about Goo Gone damaging rubber traction tires is a myth.  It is internet old wives tale.  You won't find anyone ever proving that it did any damage.    

Also, Mike Reagan, former president of Lionel, recommended this method years ago here on OGR.  He said this is what the techs at Lionel do.   

Chris N&W: Very neat idea.  Now I catch how it functions.

Rod, I have an MNP caboose with a single centerized pad.  When I bought it, reports were that the 2 pad units, which extend out the side, would foul on switch motors.  The owner is a very nice guy.

Here is a good test to see if the center rail is clean:

1.  Reduce room lighting.

2.  Run a Lionel or Marx engine which has sliding center rail contacts.

3.  Run engine.  If the center rail contact sparks like crazy, it is not clean.  Conversely with no sparks.

This is a recommended article from a thread couple months ago about what to clean your track with.

Model Railroad Hobbyist/May 2019 

read the Publisher's Musings article...

I have every type of cleaner available; I bought them all because I'm lazy and keep hoping one will actually clean the rails.

NONE work well enough!

for fun I string them all together and watch them try to clean the rails.

Sort of like watching paint dry.

RJR posted:

I used alcohol once.  Even though I had windows open to vent fumes, I woke up next day with a headache (hangover).

I don't see how a pad rolling over the dirt, rather than sliding, can really remove dirt.

One caution when using abrasives. Any fine steel dust will get on wheels if you have magnetic traction.  Also might get into bearings

 

Golly, RJR, how much alcohol did you use?

Just enough to moisten a single paper towel folded into a square of about 2 x 3 inches, probably less than a quarter of a capful, is enough for 20 or so feet of track. I use 70% rubbing alcohol - a 32 oz bottle lasts me for years and only costs about a buck.

Never had a fume issue, been doing this for decades

I know there’s 100’s of ways to clean track, however, sometimes you just have to roll up the sleeves and go to Work. This little car is cute, but does it really clean dirty/greasy/gritty track, not real good. I use these products with fantastic results. Happy Railroading 

leapinlarry posted:

I know there’s 100’s of ways to clean track, however, sometimes you just have to roll up the sleeves and go to Work. This little car is cute, but does it really clean dirty/greasy/gritty track, not real good. I use these products with fantastic results. Happy Railroading 

 

This the car I use with 91% Isopropyl alcohol on my GarGraves track and it does a great job. I rote the pads and have the clearer on the second pad and then rotated the used cleaner to the front and put on a clean pad on the rear and run it around again works well for me and that layout was 20x20 with 3 main lines. On tin plate track not so good due to higher corrosion issues with the older track.

John, I have a lot of track, some of which is less accessible than others. Takes many hours to rub it all.

Me i just use my hands it's easy for me because i can reach all of my layout ,i use wd 40 ,lps lubricant .works for me .

Me too, RJR.

Warrenville has about 600 feet of track, much hard to reach. Need to reach under overpasses and over/through scenery including tunnels. Gotta crawl under the layout and up through some access hatches. Areas I can't reach by hand are accessed by using a stick about 2 feet long, 1 1/2 wide and 1/4 inch thick with a pad of paper towel with alcohol rubber banded to the end. This extends my reach and gets into tunnels.

Break a large job down to manageable steps. I do about one line/loop a month, usually as I change the trains running on that area. If I do track or scenery updates/repairs in an area I always clean the track in that area at that time too.

In this manner all of the track winds up getting cleaned at least once every 9 months or so, which I find is more than enough.

I don't run trains with traction tires, preferring Magne-traction, don't over oil axles, and clean train wheels when I move rolling stock and engines from my display shelves to the layout. These things could that be reasons for my tracks staying clean longer.

Possibly the type of track makes a difference too? Warrenville uses traditional tubular track.

RJR,

I learned a long time ago about getting fume headaches from cleaning track.

Almost 60 years ago when I was around 9 years old I ran out of Lionel Track-Clean to put in my # 3927 Lionel Track cleaning car, so I went in Mom's cleaning closet, found a bottle of  Naptha cleaning fluid and said to myself: "Self, this says cleaning fluid, so it should be good".

Well, not only did it destroy my track cleaning car, but I thought my head was going to explode. Worst pain I've ever had.

Don't do that!