Is there a track cleaner that actually works?

@DAVID PEARSALL 010218 posted:

Good morning, does the Track Magic affect the rubber traction tires

No.  It does not affect the tires.

Read through most of the 5 pages of responses.  Thought I'd add a couple of my own experiences, throughts...

I have used Centerline cleaning cars in all the gauges.  Usually with Goo-Gone.  Follow-up with dry rollers for any excess.  Works well.  Have used on O, HO, N, and G layouts...some are mine, others at the LHS, and still others for maintenance clients.

For the G layouts (indoors, clients) I've also modified a 'Bright Bar' rubberized abrasive bar sold by Micro-Mark to ride in the Centerline pocket for the client's brass track.  I bevel the edges (to ride the rails better) and trim the block to fit the car pocket.  I set a steel weight on top of the block when it's being pulled through the layout to ensure a good brightening of the brass track.  I also have/use the LGB motorized track cleaner, but the client is often busy with his own clients and it makes a lot more noise traversing the layout (runs overhead through his office, hallways, lobby, etc.) than the Centerline pulled with a Stainz (0-4-0).

For my O3R layout I use the Northeast car that others have discussed in the responses.  Actually, my own car looks very much like LeapinLarry's with the tank and engine details.  Excellent job.  Goo-Gone.  Dry wipes to finish.

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A thought about the Scotch-Brite pads...  I hadn't really needed something that aggressive for track cleaning.  Also, I know they (green ones) are prone to scratching plastics and even 'fogging' a high glossed paint finish.  They have their place in the tools inventory, however.

But a road trip to Florida in May a couple of years ago introduced me to a better version of Scotch-Brite pads.  What I didn't know on that trip was that I was driving right into the peak of MAYFLY season!  For those not acquainted, these are the horny buggers that hatch in May, fly around densely and desperately to find a mate and, well, you know!.....  Females live for 5 minutes, males two days...MAX!(and we thought Covid was a PITA!!!)  Well, when they get plastered all over the front of your car,  then bake a few hours...or more... in Florida's sun, you're headed for a MAJOR car washing experience unknown 1300 miles in the other direction.

I was warned that commercial bug-booger softener liquids/sprays will help, but that new-car gloss/shine will need more.  That's when I became acquainted with Scotch-Brite's PINK scrub sponges.  These are so mild they're "Safe on stemware, china, mirrors, and more!".  And on car finishes, too, I found out.  TOTALLY AWESOME.  Noooooo bug-booger residue, minimal effort required.

And, so, naturally I had to try them out on some of my railroad equipment in need of cleaning.  EXCELLENT!  Now, also part of the tools inventory.  So, for those who are concerned about the aggressive nature of the more common green Scotch-Brites, I highly recommend the PINK versions.

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Lastly, re Deluxe Materials Magic Track Cleaner...  It is, indeed, an excellent product.  And a late-comer to the market.  Our LHS stocks it, customers who've tried it are pleased.  So, why hasn't it been more to the fore?  Well, Deluxe Materials is a UK company.  If you peruse their UK website, you'll find they make LOTS of products for the hobbyists of all branches...including the railroaders.  But it's only within the past couple of years that they've linked up with state-side distributors to make it easier to obtain.

In fact, if you go to the Magic Track Cleaner link...you'll find a note at the bottom that sez they can only mail within the UK, not overseas.  Well, that applies to direct orders.  You can obtain the product from a state-side distributor, which are identified in the website.

Take some time to investigate their other products...

FWIW...

I've been looking at track cleaning car options and found this thread. The CMX car is now up to $399.95. Ouch. The reviews the NE Trains car are mostly positive here, so I'm going with that. My biggest concern is whether the cleaning pads will snag on switch rails as the car rolls through them.

@BlueComet400 posted:

I've been looking at track cleaning car options and found this thread. The CMX car is now up to $399.95. Ouch. The reviews the NE Trains car are mostly positive here, so I'm going with that. My biggest concern is whether the cleaning pads will snag on switch rails as the car rolls through them.

I have the NE Trains cleaning car and the Trackman 2000.  I mostly use the Trackman 2000 with a Scotchbright pad, it's worked very well for years, and I don't have to fuss with cleaning fluid.  I didn't have issues with the NE Trains car snagging switches, but I suppose it's possible.

Here is the "rig" I designed:

1. The drive is from a PW 2037 which has magnetraction so no worries about cleaning solvent causing traction tires to slip/degrade and put residue right back on the rails.

2. The cleaner car is Centerline O. The "push" coupler on the cleaner car is covered with a snug-fitting section of Tygon tubing to keep good contact with the front of the 2037 drive as it pushes the car around curves.

3. The drive weight is a 2" section of 1-5/8 square brass bar from Stoner Metals. It is held to the top of the drive with "stick-on" Velcro as shown. And, yes, it holds but be sure to use genuine "stick-on" Velcro. Other "knock-offs" don't have very good adhesive. Despite the high CG, the drive is stable around even 036 curves, but I don't exceed 50 scale mph or about 1.5 ft/s. I've never had a "wipe out."

4. The cleaner car weight is a 2" section of 1-3/4" square aluminum bar, also from Stoner Metals. The bottom face of the aluminum bar is covered with the "hook" side of "stick-on" Velcro to securely hold cleaning pads. Again, genuine Velcro should be used. This flat-surface weight gives much better cleaning action than the stock Centerline roller and the Velcro hooks really hold the pad. Of course, you can use the roller, if desired.

5. The cleaning pads I use are cut from "Sham-Wow" but you can use about any pad material that the Velcro hooks will hold including Scotch-Brite. I moisten my pads (don't soak 'em!) with Odorless Mineral Spirits for the first few "laps" and then finish up with a clean dry pad. This cleans every kind of residue off the rails without risk of corrosion. You can even wash and reuse the cut pads using Dawn dish detergent.

6. Since the 2037 drive is spur-geared, it is pretty free-rolling, so its momentum will carry it through brief current interruptions such as those occurring through turnouts.

One challenge with track cleaning cars and tubular track is that the center rail stands proud of the two outer rails due to the insulation. My weighted-roller Centerline car picks up lots of dirt on the center rail, but much less from the two outer ones. How have others dealt with this?

IMO the best option is a track cleaning car and a small engine pulling it around your layout 1 occasionally you have to replace the cleaning pad or abrasive pad depending on what your using for cleaning your rails!

Alan

@Bill Swatos posted:

Here is the "rig" I designed:

1. The drive is from a PW 2037 which has magnetraction so no worries about cleaning solvent causing traction tires to slip/degrade and put residue right back on the rails.

2. The cleaner car is Centerline O. The "push" coupler on the cleaner car is covered with a snug-fitting section of Tygon tubing to keep good contact with the front of the 2037 drive as it pushes the car around curves.

3. The drive weight is a 2" section of 1-5/8 square brass bar from Stoner Metals. It is held to the top of the drive with "stick-on" Velcro as shown. And, yes, it holds but be sure to use genuine "stick-on" Velcro. Other "knock-offs" don't have very good adhesive. Despite the high CG, the drive is stable around even 036 curves, but I don't exceed 50 scale mph or about 1.5 ft/s. I've never had a "wipe out."

4. The cleaner car weight is a 2" section of 1-3/4" square aluminum bar, also from Stoner Metals. The bottom face of the aluminum bar is covered with the "hook" side of "stick-on" Velcro to securely hold cleaning pads. Again, genuine Velcro should be used. This flat-surface weight gives much better cleaning action than the stock Centerline roller and the Velcro hooks really hold the pad. Of course, you can use the roller, if desired.

5. The cleaning pads I use are cut from "Sham-Wow" but you can use about any pad material that the Velcro hooks will hold including Scotch-Brite. I moisten my pads (don't soak 'em!) with Odorless Mineral Spirits for the first few "laps" and then finish up with a clean dry pad. This cleans every kind of residue off the rails without risk of corrosion. You can even wash and reuse the cut pads using Dawn dish detergent.

6. Since the 2037 drive is spur-geared, it is pretty free-rolling, so its momentum will carry it through brief current interruptions such as those occurring through turnouts.

WTG Bill so when does production start Like that SOO also! Mark

@Ken Wing posted:

One challenge with track cleaning cars and tubular track is that the center rail stands proud of the two outer rails due to the insulation. My weighted-roller Centerline car picks up lots of dirt on the center rail, but much less from the two outer ones. How have others dealt with this?

Since you already have the Centerline car, you could get the aluminum weight I describe in point #4 in my post above and set it up as follows:

You could then run the car a few "laps" and clean the outside rails. To avoid damaging the Velcro in the center of the weight, just be sure the edge pads are thick enough to allow the center rail to clear the Velcro. Alternatively, you could place a full pad over the edge ones shown and then there would be no risk of damaging the Velcro hooks. The full pad might dislodge over turnouts and crossovers, though.

I looked at York for a trackman 2000 and found none. I found the centerline car for $190.  Too steep IMO and they were out of pads. I decided on a target brand magic eraser underneath a free menards flatcar.  Had to exacto a small amount down the center of the sponge.  Cost was like $2. Worked good enough for the corners of the layout I couldn’t reach and came out dirtier than I thought.

@VADarthDad posted:

I looked at York for a trackman 2000 and found none. I found the centerline car for $190.  Too steep IMO and they were out of pads. I decided on a target brand magic eraser underneath a free menards flatcar.  Had to exacto a small amount down the center of the sponge.  Cost was like $2. Worked good enough for the corners of the layout I couldn’t reach and came out dirtier than I thought.

I wouldn't use Magic Eraser on my track, it has mystery chemicals.   I have no idea what formaldehyde-melamine-sodium bisulfate copolymer does to your track, and I have no intention of finding out on my track!  I use Scotchbright on the Trackman 2000, no chemicals.

Hello Bluecomet400 and those getting all messy cleaning with track cleaning cars

If you look near the bottom of page 3 of this topic, there is a post that shows a way to eliminate track cleaning forever, for about $10 for NO OX ID A special track cleaning treatment that has been used for over 50 years. No track cleaning for me since 1-2022.  Homemade Centerline track cleaning car still on the shelf.

Charlie

For what is worth,  
I use this for my North East Track Cleaning Car pad

“USA Made Ribbon Factory 2-1/2" Natural Cotton Twill Tape - 25 Yards - Soft & Extra Medium Weight - (Multiple Widths Available)”

What I ordered has a herringbone pattern

It’s roll stock so I cut to size for length, bolt in and I lightly apply  rubbing alcohol 100% on first pad holder It works well on my o tubular track

Im now experimenting with different foam underneath for a cushion effect