K-Line Porter - Upgrades

I thought you were talking about this Porter. 

 

I think I saw you ask GRJ about tmcc. It is basically a board that can control a can motor (two wires), light(s), and a speaker. Aside from those wirings, input from rollers and chassis(or wheels) too. Finnally, and antenna (wire, a handrail, etc ) Boards? Sunset 3rd rail. (or used engines/boards) The latest on where else, etc, I'm not up on that. Lionel ERR co closed last year. Scott at Sunset is the source now I think. All of the above mounts into the tender. A tether runs from engine to tender containing motor/light wires etc. and roller power wire to the tender (sound might be omitted for more space)..Thats four wires bundled. 2 for motor, one for lamp, one for roller power (other "#2 wire" for light is chassis or roller, and tender tender has chassis ground too, so just 1 wire also) Adding another roller pickup to the tender is a good idea. Short engines can stall on switches, etc, and an extra roller helps tons in seeing the engine always has power. Wood, metal, or plastic. Maybe all. Hardwood makes a decent frame if you don't mind running ground wires. I've even used balsa or bass. Metal frames can ease wiring and allows easy use of nuts/bolts/rivets too; not just screws. Plastic takes way more reinforcement effort in a chassis. But makes a great body, easy to paint and finish nicely. Wood has grain to bury and porosity, so takes more finishing effort. Tin/steel finishes nice, but will be harder to form or glue. Aluminum, pita here, skip it. Brass and solder is the craftsmen level. Actually, plate metal, even aluminum, is a other chassis option. Quick and and easy, hefty for added weight, machineable for bolts, etc. Before I forget, you hadn't considered an engine mount oil tank for fuel I bet the tank on the boiler is partitioned, or the fuel tank is slightly hidden Loggers could almost use thier loads as fuel, and it doesn't take a lot of coal to fire a tiny boiler, a small bin might be ok. If the stops aren't far off, coal might be added at the stops only...? I don't know for sure, just guessing. So, I'd go with a plastic body most likely. Low cost, easy to work with, strong enough, rivet strips are the same material too. The frame? Whats handy? "Whats handy" determines alot around my layout

I think I saw you ask GRJ about tmcc. It is basically a board that can control a can motor (two wires), light(s), and a speaker. Aside from those wirings, input from rollers and chassis(or wheels) too. Finnally, and antenna (wire, a handrail, etc ) Boards? Sunset 3rd rail. (or used engines/boards) The latest on where else, etc, I'm not up on that. Lionel ERR co closed last year. Scott at Sunset is the source now I think. All of the above mounts into the tender. A tether runs from engine to tender containing motor/light wires etc. and roller power wire to the tender (sound might be omitted for more space)..Thats four wires bundled. 2 for motor, one for lamp, one for roller power (other "#2 wire" for light is chassis or roller, and tender tender has chassis ground too, so just 1 wire also) Adding another roller pickup to the tender is a good idea. Short engines can stall on switches, etc, and an extra roller helps tons in seeing the engine always has power. Wood, metal, or plastic. Maybe all. Hardwood makes a decent frame if you don't mind running ground wires. I've even used balsa or bass. Metal frames can ease wiring and allows easy use of nuts/bolts/rivets too; not just screws. Plastic takes way more reinforcement effort in a chassis. But makes a great body, easy to paint and finish nicely. Wood has grain to bury and porosity, so takes more finishing effort. Tin/steel finishes nice, but will be harder to form or glue. Aluminum, pita here, skip it. Brass and solder is the craftsmen level. Actually, plate metal, even aluminum, is a other chassis option. Quick and and easy, hefty for added weight, machineable for bolts, etc. Before I forget, you hadn't considered an engine mount oil tank for fuel I bet the tank on the boiler is partitioned, or the fuel tank is slightly hidden Loggers could almost use thier loads as fuel, and it doesn't take a lot of coal to fire a tiny boiler, a small bin might be ok. If the stops aren't far off, coal might be added at the stops only...? I don't know for sure, just guessing. So, I'd go with a plastic body most likely. Low cost, easy to work with, strong enough, rivet strips are the same material too. The frame? Whats handy? "Whats handy" determines alot around my layout

I too wondered about a tender, so I used a cheap slope-back. added a handrail, rear steps and letters. I also raised the body slightly to show the arch-bar  trucks better. It seems to match up well.

Here's how I did mine.  The little coal car I found looked about right for the size of the locomotive.

K-Line Porter TMCC Conversion Project

Uh... correct me if l am wrong, but l thought this Porter had an oil bunker behind the cab?  Also thought l'd read some had divided saddle tanks for fuel and water?  Certainly, some had add on tenders, as some of the "dinkies" in the Great Western sugar plant yards.

Since this isn't scale anyway, and I needed something to haul the electronics, the little coal car seemed to fit the bill.

However, it seems it was a coal locomotive, at least one of the 0-4-0 models.  They also actually had a 4-wheel tender, probably not much different than mine.

A quote from Jeff-Z.com web page.

When 0-4-0 steam locomotive #2 arrived by truck at the WK&S back in the early 1963 it had no tender. Water is carried in the saddle tank above the boiler and the coal was simply carried on the floor of the cab. Obviously the locomotive's range was quite limited. In 1970 WK&S crews fabricated a coal tender starting with the four-wheel rolling chassis from a tiny Plymouth diesel-mechanical locomotive.