LED lamp conversion. ERR DC commander

This is Gunrunner Johns wiring schematic for ERR LED lighting.

Polarity depends on the series R2LC board you have. I learned the hard way....

Thanks for the dwg.  I guess I need a chime in from GRJ, as to what the 1N4003 diode is for. I have no markers and only o led per light.  The common question is answered as the cathode goes to the board.  Have no idea what series board I have.  Thought I saw one that was labeled R4LC.

If connected backwards, I don't mind blowing an LED or rewiring.  Just don't wont to kill a board.

The 1N4003 protects the LEDs from any back voltage that may occur.

@NHVRYGray posted:

Thanks for the dwg.  I guess I need a chime in from GRJ, as to what the 1N4003 diode is for. I have no markers and only o led per light.  The common question is answered as the cathode goes to the board.  Have no idea what series board I have.  Thought I saw one that was labeled R4LC.

If connected backwards, I don't mind blowing an LED or rewiring.  Just don't wont to kill a board.

I asked John about the diodes. They are not required but he does recommend them to extend the life of the LED's.

This is the board I'm installing with an AC commander in a F3. The "C07" at the end of the part number indicated common anode lighting. The "C08" board is common cathode. Again, don't ask me how I learned that lesson.....

I'm still a newbie at these things so I am only passing along what little information I have gleaned to date.

This was GRJ's response to my lighting issues.

Just a question, does this unit just happen to have a R2LC-C07 TMCC board?  That is the one exception to the rule, it has positive lighting outputs as opposed to the negative outputs from the much more common R2LC-C08.

Bob

Many thanks.  Will have to look when I get to the shop this afternoon.

Looks like I answered these questions without even being here!

The chip on my board is an R4LV  C08-S1.  So I should have a common cathode board.  So the cathode (-) of both LEDs being common connect to point 6 and the anode (+) of the front to point 4 and the anode (+) of the rear to point 5.

Was planning on using a 3K resistor for a single LED vs a 470, good?

Actually, your board needs the common anode LED's if you're considering directional bi-color markers.  The lighting outputs are negative in respect to wheels for that board.  My previously posted diagram for directional markers is correct for your wiring.

@NHVRYGray posted:

Was planning on using a 3K resistor for a single LED vs a 470, good?

A 3K resistor will result in a much dimmer headlight, but if that's your aim, it'll work fine.  Any resistor larger than 470 is appropriate, the light output is directly related to the resistance, higher resistance, lower light output.

There is some logic to the different resistor values I used in various places.  The Red output of most bi-color LED's is much brighter than the green, so I use higher value resistors for the red side to tone them down.  I also don't use the minimum value resistor possible for the markers as I don't like them being as bright as extra headlights.  You can use the same 470 ohm resistor for a single headlight, that's one area where I figured with two they'd be bright enough.

I have no markers only doing headlights.  So what is common?  I must admit, my electronics is VERY rusty and I am getting myself confused.

I've been in the medium voltage (2400-7200VAC) controller word for years, but my electronics have hardly been touched in 30 years.

For that you need a much simpler diagram.  Leave out one LED on each end if you don't need two headlights.

"Common" is the wheels/frame.

Super  Thanks