Legacy Cab-1L flickering cab and headlights on 70ACe

Update took the 70Ace to Train Shack and the unit work great lights on and all...

Then went home and had the same problem but I have No problems with the AC6000 at all with the same setup anyone???

 

Where is your base plugged in?  Well grounded outlet or outlet strip with surge protector?

 

This might be a silly question, but is the base power supply plugged directly into a well grounded wall outlet? And is the signal wire from the base connected directly to the track?

Sometimes a power-strip, doesn't provide a suitable ground, and the Legacy signal can be degraded. From the symptoms you have described, a weak signal sounds like the problem. Some locomotives are more sensitive than others to the signal strength.

Great minds.......

 

I really must learn to type faster. 

A few suggestions:

 

• Make certain your ground connection in the wall outlet is actually connected to earth ground.  No 3 prong to 2 prong adapters allowed.
• Try resetting your SD-70ACes.
• Change the frequency/channel on the Cab 1L and base. 

Thanks Guys!!

Yes its plugged into the wall outlet with No adapter

I have the signal wire going into the TMCC Lock On.

I did return part #6-14178 for a 6-34120 to use with Atlas Track

Later today I will try another wall outlet

Thanks Mike

I had similar issues with an Atlas TMCC locomotive. The locomotive didn't always accept commands from my CAB-1L either in addition to the flickering headlights.

 

I reset the R2LC boards, gave the engine a new ID and tried all 9 channels on my LEGACY CAB-1L/Base-1L Command Set. Nothing.

 

So, thinking there was something wrong with the locomotive I sent it back to Atlas. They ran it with a 990 LEGACY Command Set and it ran perfectly. Next they tried it with a LEGACY CAB-1L/Base-1L Command Set and experienced the same issues I had, namely delays in responding to commands and flickering headlights.

 

I informed Lionel and they told me to send back the entire command set with no questions asked and promptly "tuned" the frequency within the Base-1L. I think they replaced a ceramic cap inside of the base and now my TMCC locomotives run just as well as my LEGACY engines.

 

It's possible that your locomotives are fine and your command set is the culprit.

My new Base 1L had to go back to Lionel as well.  They did the same thing - replaced a ceramic cap and "tuned" it.  Then everything worked as it should.

Thanks Guys it looks like the 3 prong outlet wasn't hooked up right so all is good now...

Getting closer to starting my layout looking forward to all the Fun

 

I had the SAME problems with 2 of my TMCC engines and a new Legacy Base/Cab 1 L system.  Lionel immediately had me return it. They sent it back with 2 notes

The Tech Tuned the frequency and added a Ceramic CAP.

I paid the mailing to them. They paid for it coming back.

I now have the Cab 1L, my question is did your lights flicker while the engine was also stationary or only while moving?

Ray

Hi Ray for me it was both...

My problem it wasn't grounded

 

Another question for you guys that sent back your system to Lionel...

By Lionel replacing the cap and tuning it did it work without a grounded outlet??

I just got back from Lowe's with a three prong outlet to find out the outlet in my room is only two wire No ground...

 

UPMike, it won't work properly without some sort of earth ground. Can you run an earth wire from your outlet to a grounded outlet, a nearby water pipe, radiator or similar item that is connected to earth ground?

You must have the ground, so you'll have to address that issue.  Many times, the two-wire outlets have a ground to the box, they just don't have the 3-wire outlet.

 

Ok last question before I put everything up for sale and go back to Z scale

What I did was ground the outlet to the box and that didn't work...

I just don't know why my AC6000 don't give me these problems as the SD70ACe's do...

 

What if I sent it back to Lionel so they could

"Tuned the frequency and added a Ceramic CAP" would this help???

 

It's not 100% certain that the box is grounded, the only way is to measure it.  If it's not grounded, connecting the ground pin to the box won't accomplish anything.

Thanks John

I will keep trying maybe it's time to hit the yellow pages....

 

Installed a new CAB1L and had the same issue with flickering lights on TMCC engines, they run and all function work but the lights flicker. Both Legacy engines were fine. I do have a good ground as I have been operating in the command environment since 1996.

 

Anyway, checked out a number of things, plugged the base directly into the grounded outlet. Checked the cable leading to the base from the wall wart for continuity. Put the TMCC engines on the same track as the Legacy ones.

 

Disconnected the CB1L system and hooked up a conventional transformed and started up the TMCC engines. They ran fine. No flickering lights.

 

Sent an e-mail to Lionel requesting an RA and they replied that they wanted to send me a new wall transformer first and see if that solved the problem. The transformer that came with the system has a 9 volt output at .5amps and the one they are sending me has an 8 volt output at 2 amps.

 

Oh well, Lionel said I should get the replacement transformer in 7-10 days so I find out if that solves the problem.

Trainman9

I just got back into this hobby in December of 13. At 63 years old retired railroader from CSX / Started on the C&O. I have spent close to 5K getting started. Long story short I have the same problem on a my layout with an ERR engine I just re wired for TMCC. When in Cab 1-L the light flickers on my F-3. My Legacy engines run fine. But the F-3 light flikers. Also the LIONEL light on the front of the ZW-L slightly flickers. Contacted Lionel and they are also sending me a Cab 1-L Power supply. Tested AC grounds like a good signalman should and it's good ground.

 

I just joined OGR  to get this great info. 

 

Thanks

STE (Service Test Engineer)

John I'm lost I just removed the outlet so I could double check the ground.
I removed the ground from the box and the lights stop flickering, then I took off the ground wire and all was good.
Then I left the ground wire off and put the outlet back in the box and had the same problem???

I'm confused too, it sounds like having the ground wire kills it! 

Yup...The ground wire kills it if I try to put the outlet back in the box.

Also having the ground wire off and the outlet not mounted works until I try and put the outlet back into the box lol....

 

This might be totally off-the-wall, but is there any possibility that one of your outer rails is somehow connected to earth ground?  Perhaps a bare wire touching a pipe or something like that? (A metal cased electrical item touching the rail etc.)

If so, then that would kill the Legacy signal as soon as the outlet is grounded.

Good call Nicole, I was pondering the same thing as I sat down here.

 

The track is only a 40" flex... I have the signal wire going into the TMCC lock-on

 

I can try the signal wire direct to the track???

Does it go to the other rail or middle rail

 

 

Ok Gang I guess the next thing for me to do is look into buying my first

Digital Multimeter and learn how to use it...

Can someone point me in the right direction Home Depot or Lowe's with a model or make???

 

Hi Mike,

 

That sounds like a good idea, as it might rule out another potential for problem.

 

The signal wire should be connected to the outer rails. (Normally both outer rails are connected together, but connection to just one rail should be OK on your piece of test track.)  I'm not quite sure what would happen if it were connected to the centre rail, but it most probably would not work very well at all.

After looking at your photos it appears this outlet is supplied or is supplying power to something else. This type of wiring for outlets annoys me, but is common practice and ok by code.

The problem could lie wherever this feeds or wherever it is supplied from.

 

I would try to find a dedicated circuit somewhere in the house to take your test track to and power up from there.

 

Finally, you could have a base that needs the repair.

 

 

This simple household circuit tester has been handy to me. Just go around and plug it in. If a receptacle is bad or improperly wired the lights will tell you.

 

 

Thanks Moonman I will look into this...

I have my brother coming down this weekend to help

 

Trainman any Luck??

I just got off the phone with Lionel and they will be sending me the same transformer...

I was told at this time they are not taking any repairs in...

I was also told that these are the transformers they use for set #990

 

 

Was all of the outlet\receptacle wiring ok?

 

Lionel is moving the repair center to North Carolina this month, hence no new repairs taken. 

 

I guess you'll have to be patient if you need the base repair. The cost of change.

Thanks Moonman yes no problems with the outlet and i picked up a tester last week.

Its funny if I use the 3 prong adapter  it works great!!

I still need to check a few other rooms before I say all rooms have been checked.

I'm pretty sure the #990 system uses a 16 volt transformer.

 

I was sent an e-mail stating the part has shipped but I have been unable to track it via the UPS tracking number they gave me. I guess it will show up any day now.

When I was at the Red Carpet event at the NC facility they had plenty of the CAB1L bases for sale so they could simply replace the defective ones and not make us wait until July.

Received the replacement transformer yesterday. It is much larger, looks like the one for the Legacy #990 system, 8 volts at 16 watts.

 

Hooked it up and:

 

IT WORKED

 

Good to hear Trainman Thanks!!

I am happy to report that it also worked for me
and No three prong adapter!!
I want to Thank You all for all the Help!!

This is a Cab-1L Base issue then?