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What’s the worst that would happen using a Lionel 27 ohm smoke resistor to complete and fool the legacy unit circuit into working, as opposed to the original 8 ohm resistor?

(I also have a 16ohm MTH resistor part on hand if that would be a better electrical match.)

I am out of time and unable to order the correct part in time. Meanwhile there is plenty of heat coming from the whistle heater for both, and I don’t want the excessive heat caused by dual 8ohm resistors occurring in the smoke box again (which is what incinerated the original wick and failed resistor), but with the failed main heater removed - the circuit is broken and the puffing fan won’t activate. Legacy is too darn smart for its own good lol.

Outcome I would hope for - low heat and circuit complete and no damage.

Outcome I would not hope for - super overdraw and board triacs/components pop. Now a more expensive problem



TL;DR - is this a boneheaded move?

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Bad idea, the smoke circuit is designed around the 8 ohm resistor.  The 27 ohm won't give you much (if any) smoke.

I'm confused about the dual smoke resistor, each of those resistors is powered individually by a different control circuit.  If they're overheating, there's a reason.  Tinkering with the values of the resistors is not the way to solve it.

Make sure the resistors and thermistors are firmly in contact with the wick material, but not totally buried in it.  Also, in the picture of the smoke unit board in the Lionel parts listing, the thermistors are too far from the resistors, they should be between 1/8" to 3/16" from the smoke resistor.

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Bad idea, the smoke circuit is designed around the 8 ohm resistor.  The 27 ohm won't give you much (if any) smoke.

I'm confused about the dual smoke resistor, each of those resistors is powered individually by a different control circuit.  If they're overheating, there's a reason.  Tinkering with the values of the resistors is not the way to solve it.

Make sure the resistors and thermistors are firmly in contact with the wick material, but not totally buried in it.  Also, in the picture of the smoke unit board in the Lionel parts listing, the thermistors are too far from the resistors, they should be between 1/8" to 3/16" from the smoke resistor.

OK. If John says don’t do it - I ain’t doin’ it.

Thanks guys!

*Under the circumstances - I will have to pull an 8ohm off another good engine of mine to get this customer repair done in a timely manner, then order the part and wait for it to go back into my own piece. Not the plan B I was hoping for but, oh well. Better than no option.

Last edited by DdotCdot

These 8-ohm resistors are getting harder to find.  Glad this thread came up on the search and I plan to try the vise treatment suggested above.

I thought it would be good to give this thread the light of day and also the point of how close the thermistors should be to the resistor.  My guess is that may have played a part in why mine failed. 

Bad idea, the smoke circuit is designed around the 8 ohm resistor.  The 27 ohm won't give you much (if any) smoke.

I'm confused about the dual smoke resistor, each of those resistors is powered individually by a different control circuit.  If they're overheating, there's a reason.  Tinkering with the values of the resistors is not the way to solve it.

Make sure the resistors and thermistors are firmly in contact with the wick material, but not totally buried in it.  Also, in the picture of the smoke unit board in the Lionel parts listing, the thermistors are too far from the resistors, they should be between 1/8" to 3/16" from the smoke resistor.

Order the Yageo SQP500JB-8R2 from Digikey.  Clamp it diagonally in a vice on the corners indicated and slowly tighten.  The square ceramic will crack off and you'll have a perfect 8.2 ohm smoke resistor.  You can have these in a couple of days.  Use safety glasses, the pieces sometimes fly quite a ways.

I also found them on Amazon without the up charge. Great minds find simple solutions

@ThatGuy posted:

I also found them on Amazon without the up charge. Great minds find simple solutions

Up charge?  What's that?

I find for this kind of component, I almost always do better on places like Digikey or Mouser.  Also note, I pick that specific brand for a reason, my experience is that some of them I've tried did not have suitable internal resistors to be smoke resistors.

For instance, I found this particular part on Amazon for a reasonable price, but I got the same part (at least the exact same markings) from Aliexpress for true peanuts.  However, it turned out that the internal resistor didn't work out as a smoke resistor, it was too small.

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Up charge?  What's that?

I find for this kind of component, I almost always do better on places like Digikey or Mouser.  Also note, I pick that specific brand for a reason, my experience is that some of them I've tried did not have suitable internal resistors to be smoke resistors.

For instance, I found this particular part on Amazon for a reasonable price, but I got the same part (at least the exact same markings) from Aliexpress for true peanuts.  However, it turned out that the internal resistor didn't work out as a smoke resistor, it was too small.

When I bought them a few time with some other things there was duty charge? So I just looked elsewhere.

GRJ....The Legacy conversion I am working on has a PS 1 smoke unit. The RCMC that I am using has a five pin connector with an additional pin for the thermister. I have not yet opened the smoke unit to see if I can add a lead for the thermister. I saw a post from you that mentioned "spoofing " the controller with a resistor. Have you or anyone modified a PS 1 smoke unit for Legacy? If a termister was added the Part number would be helpful. Thanks for the 8 ohm resistor part number. I use the 20 ohm version of that part with TMCC.

Richard

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