@Kneissl posted:Huge props to Dave for coming in here, on the other hand I think people are justifiably upset with the quality of software. Base3 is a decent pile of C-notes, and the cab3 app is not really useable without a real remote nearby to slam the halt button.
Hear Hear!
Looks like its time to bring back the Big Red Button and set it up for “Halt” as an emergency backup.
My RR already has the big red button for any power issues. The #5 master kills the power to the entire layout, channels #1 thru #4 control the four PH180 transformers for each power district. I have four of these remotes around the layout, and you can of course keep one with you while you run.
@Maddog Steel posted:Looks like its time to bring back the Big Red Button and set it up for “Halt” as an emergency backup.
CAB1L doesn't have an input jack for the big red button.
@H1000 posted:CAB1L doesn't have an input jack for the big red button.
And it would be irrelevant anyways. The Big Red Button only does the last command issued.
@MartyE posted:And it would be irrelevant anyways. The Big Red Button only does the last command issued.
You could dedicate a CAB1L as the HALT remote with the Big Red Button mounted in a convenient place for everyone to reach. Just have to make sure the only command it has ever used is HALT. Given the price of CAB1L, I think there are cheaper ways to stop everything. The solution from GRJ above works pretty well for around $20.
One cool feature of the PH180 power brick is that if you trip the breaker you don't have to press the button to reset it. If you disconnect power from the brick, it will reset itself. The remote button system that GRJ uses allows him to reset individual bricks when they trip without having to crawl under the layout to push a physical button.
@H1000 posted:You could dedicate a CAB1L as the HALT remote with the Big Red Button mounted in a convenient place for everyone to reach. Just have to make sure the only command it has ever used is HALT. Given the price of CAB1L, I think there are cheaper ways to stop everything. The solution from GRJ above works pretty well for around $20.
One cool feature of the PH180 power brick is that if you trip the breaker you don't have to press the button to reset it. If you disconnect power from the brick, it will reset itself. The remote button system that GRJ uses allows him to reset individual bricks when they trip without having to crawl under the layout to push a physical button.
Or Lionel just implements an App change that lets the user select an instant HALT or a hold delay of, 1 second, 2 second, etc. for free.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:My RR already has the big red button for any power issues. The #5 master kills the power to the entire layout, channels #1 thru #4 control the four PH180 transformers for each power district. I have four of these remotes around the layout, and you can of course keep one with you while you run.
That’s actually ingenious, as long as you can find it when necessary (I’d carry it in my pocket). While I was building the walls for my train room, I installed an electrical switch at 6 locations around the room. They’re wired in series with the last one terminating at the outlet my power supplies are plugged into. All switches need to be on, and flipping any of them off disrupts the power to the system. The electrician thought I was a bit eccentric, until he saw my layout. Then, he applauded the idea. 😀
I've also seem someone use the "Clapper". Three clapps and the power shuts off.
With as expensive as these locomotives have become it might be a good idea to keep a dead man's switch under your arm. See something bad lift your arm, done.
@Pennsy Johnnie posted:That’s actually ingenious, as long as you can find it when necessary (I’d carry it in my pocket). While I was building the walls for my train room, I installed an electrical switch at 6 locations around the room. They’re wired in series with the last one terminating at the outlet my power supplies are plugged into. All switches need to be on, and flipping any of them off disrupts the power to the system. The electrician thought I was a bit eccentric, until he saw my layout. Then, he applauded the idea. 😀
That's why I have four of them, I can pick one up and take it with me if I like, or since they're all around the layout, I'm never far from one in their "assigned" positions. The main layout platform is 24 x 12, so not so large as to have me very far from a kill switch. My yard extension isn't likely to need an emergency stop, so I can be a little farther away from a kill switch, five steps instead of two. 
@gunrunnerjohn posted:My RR already has the big red button for any power issues. The #5 master kills the power to the entire layout, channels #1 thru #4 control the four PH180 transformers for each power district. I have four of these remotes around the layout, and you can of course keep one with you while you run.
Good idea...BUT! Can you find this controller and press the button in less than the two seconds being discussed? I would think that unless you had it in your other hand the answer would be no. Still a useful thing to have!
@Big Jim posted:Good idea...BUT! Can you find this controller and press the button in less than the two seconds being discussed? I would think that unless you had it in your other hand the answer would be no. Still a useful thing to have!
I can find it and hit the kill button pretty fast. Also, if you're constantly having to make emergency stops in less than two seconds, maybe you need to rethink how you operate and not your emergency stop provisions. 
Has anyone tried a tap and slide to the left for the halt button? I don't have a Base 3, but I've downloaded the app. It looks like there is a arrow indicating a left swipe near the halt button.
@Mike McCutcheon posted:Has anyone tried a tap and slide to the left for the halt button? I don't have a Base 3, but I've downloaded the app. It looks like there is a arrow indicating a left swipe near the halt button.
This is part of the background image. If you change themes, nothing replaces it.
Marty,
Thanks for the info.
Accessories: (Serial) I have two such operating accessories. Here’s what I’ve experienced.
I'm going to run some trains... I think I've earned it!
My club is considering getting a Base 3 but we will need an external antenna. Does the Base 3 have a place to attach an external antenna? NH Joe
@New Haven Joe posted:My club is considering getting a Base 3 but we will need an external antenna. Does the Base 3 have a place to attach an external antenna? NH Joe
Yes but the external antenna is for connection to the CAB-2 remote. The WIFI antenna is internal.
Sean's Train Depot did a really excellent and comprehensive 4 part (so far) tutorial on the Base 3 and CAB-3 app. Just about anybody's questions are answered there on You Tube.
So we did some more testing on the club layout today. We tried to get the Trainmaster CAB1 and Base1 'command base' to work with the BASE3, no luck. We followed the instructions posted previously. We left the command base Y cable hooked to the old BASE1 took the Legacy Base part of the Y cable and moved it to the Serial 2 LCS module, the serial comm. part of the Y cable hooked to nothing. We then took a known working 3' PDI cable and ran it between the BASE 3 and the serial 2 module, even tried several PDI port connector locations on the base3 and Ser2. No joy, the CAB1 would not talk to the engines. And yes the CAB1 and BASE1 worked with the BASE 2 setup fine, before and after the CAB3 test. Did we do it correctly. Also we had the red and green lights blinking when commands sent with the CAB1L and CAB2, which I would expect, but no lights when signal sent from the BASE1, and yes BASE1 lights were blinking when you used the CAB1. Now, has anyone actually done this yet or are we just going off of this is how it should work. And why are we doing this, because like some other clubs we still have members using CAB1's.
@Reading RR posted:So we did some more testing on the club layout today. We tried to get the Trainmaster CAB1 and Base1 'command base' to work with the BASE3, no luck. We followed the instructions posted previously. We left the command base Y cable hooked to the old BASE1 took the Legacy Base part of the Y cable and moved it to the Serial 2 LCS module, the serial comm. part of the Y cable hooked to nothing. We then took a known working 3' PDI cable and ran it between the BASE 3 and the serial 2 module, even tried several PDI port connector locations on the base3 and Ser2. No joy, the CAB1 would not talk to the engines. And yes the CAB1 and BASE1 worked with the BASE 2 setup fine, before and after the CAB3 test. Did we do it correctly. Also we had the red and green lights blinking when commands sent with the CAB1L and CAB2, which I would expect, but no lights when signal sent from the BASE1, and yes BASE1 lights were blinking when you used the CAB1. Now, has anyone actually done this yet or are we just going off of this is how it should work. And why are we doing this, because like some other clubs we still have members using CAB1's.
You will need the Lionel LCS serial to PDI cable adapter and then the CAB-1 will work throgh the PDI connecion on the back of the Base-3. The adapter costs about $60 plus shipping. You use the serial cable you used to connect to the Base-2 but now you connect it from CAB-1 Command Base to the serial port adapter and then to the PDI inputs. I think it's pretty simple once you have the serial port adapter LCS module. The only potential problem I see is that you will be sacrificing 10 potential LCS controls on the PDI port to the single LCS module for the CAB-1. But you will still have 2 other PDI ports with the capability of powering 10 LCS modules each. Probably enough for most layouts.
Actually, I don't know enough about to know if you can daisy chain other LCS modules off the LCS serial port module, but I bet you can.
@Dave 69 GTEL posted:Actually, I don't know enough about to know if you can daisy chain other LCS modules off the LCS serial port module, but I bet you can.
Yes, you can, that's why every LCS device has 2 PDI ports on it. One input and one output.
Dave 69,
So let me make sure I have this straight. You do not use the SER2 module, and we do have a Lionel LCS serial to PDI cable adapter we used for our WIFI LCS module. So I take the Legacy Base end of the Y cable and plug it into the CAB-1 Command Base, I then connect our PDI adapter serial end into the Y cable serial comm. connector. I then connect the PDI end of the adapter into any PDI port on the Base3. I do not plug in the adapter to power as the Base3 will provide power. Do I have it correct?
@Reading RR posted:Dave 69,
So let me make sure I have this straight. You do not use the SER2 module, and we do have a Lionel LCS serial to PDI cable adapter we used for our WIFI LCS module. So I take the Legacy Base end of the Y cable and plug it into the CAB-1 Command Base, I then connect our PDI adapter serial end into the Y cable serial comm. connector. I then connect the PDI end of the adapter into any PDI port on the Base3. I do not plug in the adapter to power as the Base3 will provide power. Do I have it correct?
Sorry the SER2 is the piece of hardware I was referring to, but I forgot it's name. It's $50 at Mr Muffin. Right, you plug the serial cable into that and then go PDI cable to the base. The CAB-2 end of the Y cable is of course empty. You will be able to dispence with the WIFI module after you connect the Base-3.
The Base-3 will power the LCS modules connected to it, up to ten per PDI input, but the CAB-1 base would still need its power supply.
Ok I will give it a shot, let you know how it turns out.
We installed the base3 today at the club, initially we couldn't get the TMCC booster to work until we fit a eyelet ground wire on the power plug ground to the booster. TMCC now works but the Base 3 will not run R100 equipped cruise commander ERR engines , only in TMCC. Is there a trick to get R100 programmed engines to work with base 3?
@Reading RR posted:So we did some more testing on the club layout today. We tried to get the Trainmaster CAB1 and Base1 'command base' to work with the BASE3, no luck. We followed the instructions posted previously. We left the command base Y cable hooked to the old BASE1 took the Legacy Base part of the Y cable and moved it to the Serial 2 LCS module, the serial comm. part of the Y cable hooked to nothing. We then took a known working 3' PDI cable and ran it between the BASE 3 and the serial 2 module, even tried several PDI port connector locations on the base3 and Ser2. No joy, the CAB1 would not talk to the engines. And yes the CAB1 and BASE1 worked with the BASE 2 setup fine, before and after the CAB3 test. Did we do it correctly. Also we had the red and green lights blinking when commands sent with the CAB1L and CAB2, which I would expect, but no lights when signal sent from the BASE1, and yes BASE1 lights were blinking when you used the CAB1. Now, has anyone actually done this yet or are we just going off of this is how it should work. And why are we doing this, because like some other clubs we still have members using CAB1's.
The Legacy 990 Y cable combines two serial cables into one DB9 input to the base. The pinouts of the DB9 connectors are not a standard serial comms configuration. I'm not surprised it didn't work.
Once you have a SER2 and a PDI cable to the Base3, you need a Null Modem DB9 male to DB9 male serial cable. Connect one end to the Cab1 Base and the other end to the SER2.
Dave 69,
Did not work again trying to connect command base with the Base 3, but then I saw your correction. We have a SER2 at the club, and that's how we tried it the first time, but we used the Y cable. Tracker John, I assume when you used the Male DB( Null cable it worked correctly.
@Reading RR posted:Dave 69,
Did not work again trying to connect command base with the Base 3, but then I saw your correction. We have a SER2 at the club, and that's how we tried it the first time, but we used the Y cable. Tracker John, I assume when you used the Male DB( Null cable it worked correctly.
Yes, you need a null modem cable.
Here's a link to the the pinouts if you build your own:
@Tracker John posted:Yes, you need a null modem cable.
Here's a link to the the pinouts if you build your own:
Thank you for that. Getting details on how to connect a Command Base to the Base3 is like pulling teeth. Info comes out in dribs and dabs.
Pete
Well finally got my Base3/Cab 3 up and running. I searched the threads briefly to see if the following has been answered already but there is such an overload of info i probably missed it...so a few questions...
1) Anyone find that if you mis-assign a control system to a steam engine ID (e.g. you assign Railsounds 5 and its really a Legacy), when you hit the steam blowdown button you will send your loco full throttle careening down the track!?
2) I have an older EOB/TMCC Atlas 0-6-0 which i had programmed to 128 speed steps via my cab 1. Now i try to control it via Cab 3 and it barely moves at full throttle. The older instructions to set the speed steps involved ENG ID + DIR AUX1 +AUX1+AUX1+ 1 (or some number i forgot which)...doing this sequence via the phone app doesnt seem possible. Will it work via a Cab1L or will i need to reprogram it via my Cab1.?
Thanks for any responses!
@Farmall-Joe posted:Well finally got my Base3/Cab 3 up and running. I searched the threads briefly to see if the following has been answered already but there is such an overload of info i probably missed it...so a few questions...
1) Anyone find that if you mis-assign a control system to a steam engine ID (e.g. you assign Railsounds 5 and its really a Legacy), when you hit the steam blowdown button you will send your loco full throttle careening down the track!?
Thanks for any responses!
I believe this has been reported as a BUG.
@Tracker John posted:The Legacy 990 Y cable combines two serial cables into one DB9 input to the base. The pinouts of the DB9 connectors are not a standard serial comms configuration. I'm not surprised it didn't work.
Once you have a SER2 and a PDI cable to the Base3, you need a Null Modem DB9 male to DB9 male serial cable. Connect one end to the Cab1 Base and the other end to the SER2.
Wow! Who would have thought it. How did you know John? It's not like Lionel actually posted the instructions with the Base-3 instruction links on control.lionel.com. I found this SF Cable DB9 Male to Male Null Modem Adapter for $1.75 and free shipping. It's just a plug at each end. Looks like it might eliminate a cable dangling around and you could just plug one end into the CAB-1 base and the other into the SER2. Do you think it would work?
If you are looking at SF Cable's SKU #30D1-C1 DB9 Male to Male Null Modem adapter, that is a rigid adapter and I worry about the absence of the strain relief a cable provides. If your Base and the SER2 align perfectly (or with shims) then it should work fine.
Looking at the usual web sources, I note that DB9 M/M null modem cables are not listed. That means a DB9 M/F straight through cable, plus a DB9 M/M null modem adapter, would have to be combined.
My solution was to solder a couple of DB9 male connectors into a null modem.
Actually Amazon shows male to male DB9 null modem cables. Might have to scroll a few pages to find them. Easy to make if you have the connectors. I probably made a gazillion back in the day.
Pete
You could also buy the regular male to female cable and the get a male to male gender changer plug.
@H1000 posted:You could also buy the regular male to female cable and the get a male to male gender changer plug.
You mean female to male change plug?
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