Gandy, nice effort on the 265E. Really shows the effort, having taken it all the way apart like that. It's quite difficult. Can you tell me what part you used for the side rivets that hold the engine/headlight support plate in place?
As for paint color, I did mine originally in Woods train enamel blue streak blue, and it didn't match my original. I also used Hennings Collectors Color, and it matched much better, but does not come in rattle cans, so you need an air brush. Actually I did two, one in Collector Color and one in custom auto paint.
In the end, most of my restorations have used either Collectors Color or custom blended automotive acrylic enamel. It really depends on how close of a match, and how easy you want your job to be.
Using Woods Train Enamel, you can always get a rattle can. Problem is that the colors are usually quite wrong, and other than the ease of using a rattle can, the paint takes about a week to air dry. Three days after painting, you can still leave a finger print in it, let alone trying to keep dirt, lint, and various floaters out of the wet paint for a week. So, in my opinion, baking the piece at 175F for an hour after painting is a requirement for using Woods paint.
Collector Colors paint goes on nice, dries well, and has good color match, but you need an air brush.
Auto enamel can give you an exact match, but again, you may need an air brush. Any good auto paint supply store can blend paint and put it in a rattle can for you, though.