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Hi fellas.  I have my dads old Lionel Blue streak.  it needs work and some parts.  first he lost the tender, so that is not good.  then the thing was painted by his cousin dark blue,  so I wanted to restore this back to original, get the tender and all the missing driver arms for the wheels.  It works great, but needs some help. the E unit is still good. passenger cars all operate ok, light up ok.  are there parts out there for these old things? 

 

thanks

Chris

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Absolutely. With some searching you can get just about everything except the shells, whistle and motor. Most motor parts are available from wheels to the E-Unit. YOu can find 265W tenders on E-Bay in any color and repaint it to match replacing the latch or box coupler with the correct Blue Streak drawbar. Matching paints are available as well. I've restored many Commodore Vanderbilts and a Red Comet set and a Blue Streak set. Restoring the cars is NOT easy as the vestibules are not removable. Do some research and make sure all of your pieces match and the trucks ans such on the tender and cab casting is correct.

 

Good parts vendors are The Train Tender, and George Tbolt.

 

Gandy

hey guys thanks,  ill contact those ones.  great to hear I can get a tender.  the parts I seek are the arms mostly for the wheels.  they are all missing. the front piece is also missing.  Ill dig out the stuff and show you guys pics.  my dad painted it dark blue when I was a kid.  its in good shape, he even redid the window plastic.  shells are not dented on the cars and the lights work on the connectors.  rollers are good.  engine runs well.  we had it fixed years ago a new wheel  and wiring issues. 

 

ill dig it out and show you all.  thanks Chris

well, found a few tenders at the greenburg train show in monroeville this sunday, but one was retrofitted with new stuff and so I passed and the other one was 45.00. it was a lionel lines type.  should have snagged it, but oh well. 

 

I did see the new MTH version of this set.  it was cool.  color was same and very nice details.  I could get parts for this from the MTH parts list because its the chrome detail pieces that I needed. 

Yes, the drive rods are all gone.  The front grill mounted on the top front is gone.  and the tender is gone.  I have the cars and vestibules and such.  my dad lost the tender when he was a kid.  he mounted an airplane engine to the front and ran the thing outside in the yard!   LOL! 

 

thanks

Chris

that is great.  now, is this the original color? it looks better than the factory.  where did you get the paint?  duplicolor cans?  krylon? just wondered.  I would like the use automotive and spray teh shells and clear them, buff them out. 

 

Ill go with him for parts.  should be a nice winter project.  years ago, my dad sent the engine out to new york to fix it.  a stripped out gear wheel and the motor and E unit were not working.  but they work well now.  just need the parts to complete it. 

Gandy, nice effort on the 265E. Really shows the effort, having taken it all the way apart like that. It's quite difficult. Can you tell me what part you used for the side rivets that hold the engine/headlight support plate in place?

 

As for paint color, I did mine originally in Woods train enamel blue streak blue, and it didn't match my original. I also used Hennings Collectors Color, and it matched much better, but does not come in rattle cans, so you need an air brush. Actually I did two, one in Collector Color and one in custom auto paint.

 

In the end, most of my restorations have used either Collectors Color or custom blended automotive acrylic enamel. It really depends on how close of a match, and how easy you want your job to be.

 

Using Woods Train Enamel, you can always get a rattle can. Problem is that the colors are usually quite wrong, and other than the ease of using a rattle can, the paint takes about a week to air dry. Three days after painting, you can still leave a finger print in it, let alone trying to keep dirt, lint, and various floaters out of the wet paint for a week. So, in my opinion, baking the piece at 175F for an hour after painting is a requirement for using Woods paint.

 

Collector Colors paint goes on nice, dries well, and has good color match, but you need an air brush.

 

Auto enamel can give you an exact match, but again, you may need an air brush. Any good auto paint supply store can blend paint and put it in a rattle can for you, though.

I cannot recall the exact size, either 4-40 or 6-32 which ever fits through the original rivet holes. I take a 1/2" screw and grind the slot head flat and as thin as I can. Then I polish it to make it look like a rivet head. On installing I just put the steam chest assembly into place, push a screw through the hole, get a small lock washer and nut on it and snug it up with a small socket. From the outside it looks almost exactly like factory rivets.
 
I've not had any real problems with Woods' paints. Some colors are not exact but I find the paint is very forgiving and sags and runs usually flatten out over time and either disappear or blend in to look like factory runs. I've never had a piece not be dry enough to pick up and handle for reassembly longer than 48 hours.
 
His paints do exhibit a grainy look for quite some time after spraying. Those will settle down after a few months. I've never had any luck with using my air brush, it was made to do small jobs, which I don't consider this type of work to be. Years ago we used to go up to Aston, PA to an auto shop that would mix custom colors from my sample and put it in spray cans. I ran into sagging issues and grainy finish issues and gave up as re stripping was impossible with a blaster cabinet and I didn't like using the chemicals.
 
Gandy
 
 
 LocoDone4
 
 
Originally Posted by jsrfo:

Gandy, nice effort on the 265E. Really shows the effort, having taken it all the way apart like that. It's quite difficult. Can you tell me what part you used for the side rivets that hold the engine/headlight support plate in place?

 

As for paint color, I did mine originally in Woods train enamel blue streak blue, and it didn't match my original. I also used Hennings Collectors Color, and it matched much better, but does not come in rattle cans, so you need an air brush. Actually I did two, one in Collector Color and one in custom auto paint.

 

In the end, most of my restorations have used either Collectors Color or custom blended automotive acrylic enamel. It really depends on how close of a match, and how easy you want your job to be.

 

Using Woods Train Enamel, you can always get a rattle can. Problem is that the colors are usually quite wrong, and other than the ease of using a rattle can, the paint takes about a week to air dry. Three days after painting, you can still leave a finger print in it, let alone trying to keep dirt, lint, and various floaters out of the wet paint for a week. So, in my opinion, baking the piece at 175F for an hour after painting is a requirement for using Woods paint.

 

Collector Colors paint goes on nice, dries well, and has good color match, but you need an air brush.

 

Auto enamel can give you an exact match, but again, you may need an air brush. Any good auto paint supply store can blend paint and put it in a rattle can for you, though.

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