Lionel cab1 does not engage engine no light blink on the base when prompted for engine I am new to this hobby and know little about it I could use help. Tom

Tom, I would like to help but you posted in the wrong cetegory (3r traditional toy trains) when what you are asking is more of a specific control system technical question that should go under control systems, lionel tmcc https://ogrforum.com/...el-tmcc-and-legacy-1

Also, need way more information on what exact hardware you have, setup, power, the engine in question. I know you are starting and I do want to point you in the right direction and welcome you.

I have moved this to the proper forum.

"Lionel cab1 does not engage engine no light blink on the base when prompted for engine I am new to this hobby and know little about it"

First, let's try to solve this CAB1 problem. The CAB1 grey remote and base use 27Mhz AM radio frequency similar to old school radio control models of that time era in the 1990s and thus have crystals in both the remote and the base that determine the exact frequency and have to match. But before we get to that, let's make sure your remote (CAB1) is actually powered and transmitting. I say this because the battery contacts are known to get corroded- but also break off or be damaged, and also many batteries are not made to specification and do not even make contact because the batteries are too short or the contacts in the remote have lost their "spring" and are bent away from the battery. The remote makes a beep anytime a button is pressed when it properly is getting power from the batteries, however, that beep is pretty quiet and you may need the hold the remote close to your ear to hear it in some cases.

So, is your remote making the beep?  In this video that was shared this morning in another post, you can clearly hear the beep when buttons are pressed on this remote in the background picked up by the camera audio https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HCkSc3kV_k

If it is making the beep- great, if not, investigating the battery area would be my first guess.

Once we get past that, then ensuring the remote and the base are on the same frequency, ensuring the base is properly powered and working, ensuring you extended the antenna on the remote (this is old school 27Mhz AM radio) and are in range of the base.

@Vernon Barry posted:

Once we get past that, then ensuring the remote and the base are on the same frequency, ensuring the base is properly powered and working, ensuring you extended the antenna on the remote (this is old school 27Mhz AM radio) and are in range of the base.

If the old TMCC command base and CAB1 aren't on the same frequency, at least one of them is broken or equipped with the rare alternate channel crystal.

The remote beeps at every push of buttons. Light blink on base except for the any of the top row of keys I hear the beep in the controler .All I did was not use it for 3 weeks when I picked it up to use it I could not engage engine Tried to reprogram engine did not work sd80mac&2 8 8 4 mallet. Tried another hand held controler same frequency still no engine engagedment.

The top row of keys, SW, ACC, etc. don't send anything to the base, they just set the remote up to transmit the proper codes when you press one of the numbered keys.

Let's rewind a bit.  When you power up the track and command base, does the locomotive stay silent or does it immediately wake up?

If the old TMCC command base and CAB1 aren't on the same frequency, at least one of them is broken or equipped with the rare alternate channel crystal.

John, Interesting that you should say that. I actually have one. I found out the hard way...

Chris

LVHR

The engine comes alive but does not move the lights flicker and when I turn the speed knob the engine tries to move and stops when  I push the horn coupler or any other button it functions but the engine does not move

If the engine sounds come on right away without pressing any keys on the remote, you likely have a command base issue.  Top suspect is the tuning of the track frequency coil.  This is a clip from the late Dale Manquen's excellent Train Facts website.

I've tuned several old TMCC bases using this technique.  Before you tune the base, it's wise to verify that you have a bad base and not one problem locomotive.

If the frequency tuning of the Base oscillator shifts away from the nominal value, the receivers in the locomotives may have a reduced sensitivity. Re-tuning L8 is a bit risky, but sometimes this is necessary. Using the least sensitive locomotive as a reference, press the horn/whistle button on the CAB-1. Use a plastic screwdriver to adjust L8 back and forth until you determine the extremes of the adjustment range that will activate the horn/whistle. Now adjust L8 to the middle of this adjustment range. Check all you other locomotives. (You could have just one bad locomotive and a good Base!)

Where and what is L8 ? I'm a mechanic by trade I understand what your saying but know nothing of the controler.

I don't have one to look at right now, but it's a silver can with a screwdriver adjustment in the top, there's two or three of them on the board.  You need a plastic screwdriver to do the adjustment.  The component numbers are on the PCB next to the can, you just have to look for L8.

That is in the base right? Take the 6 screws out of the base and when you split it apart you should be able to find L8 right

Correct, it's labeled on the main PCB.  My recollection is it's the can on the right, but it's been a long time since I actually worked on one of these.

Tried adjusting L8 tried 3  different  engines all run eradicate stop and start but wstl&bell work.directional lights flicker as well When I turn speed control it does little or nothing.

There easily could be more wrong with the base or an issue with the layout/wiring.  I'd try doing the settings on the workbench with a short piece of track and see if you get different results.  Also, make SURE you're using the correct power brick for the command base and it's plugged into a properly wired grounded outlet.

I am using a zw275 w I will try it with a short track by itself and let you know .The non tmcc engines run good all the way around the track I would like to thank you for the help you have taken the time with me.

I kind of feel stupid here the plugin I was using had no ground used a grounded outlet and things got better THANK YOU.

Well, that is one major issue!

I changed my layout to all 72 turns and switches or better moved control's to different spot and used a non grounded extension cord works well with a ground.

I appreciate the time you have taken with me on this issue now that this is taken care of I can move forward with finishing some more of layout

Now I am going to try to convert 28687 dockside switcher to tmcc by using sunset models conversion kit now that I can program it thank you.

@Tom J posted:

I appreciate the time you have taken with me on this issue now that this is taken care of I can move forward with finishing some more of layout

No problem, glad it was easily resolved.