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I always read the instructions for any locomotive I get. I have been having issues with the electro coupler for my Lionel SP Consolidation 6-28036.

The Coupler in my opinion is bi-polar, it chooses to work, I looked to see if I can fix it so it can open, I read that MTH locos use this dry graphite lubricant to pop open the coupler so it will fire when the button is pushed. I am looking for info needed for my engine in the instruction manual, i either saw the electro coupler assistance page  once or I never read it. Any  other ways to fix it will help. If it is recommended by many to do a dry graphite lubricant, does a store like Ace or Home Depot sells that or will I have to go to a hobby shop?

Thanks

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I find many couplers, both magnet and the electrocouplers, suffer from poor casting of the knuckles.  This causes them to either be hard to open and/or close or to pop open when they shouldn't. 

 

For electrocouplers, if simple dry lubricant doesn't do it, I remove the knuckle and smooth all the mating surfaces.  This has the added benefit of making the coupler function much better.  You don't have to bash the rolling stock to couple up, and the uncoupling is more reliable as well.

 

Gunrunner, I was mistaken 4-8-4 Mil Rd is Mil Rd 4-6-4 PS2 #6414 RAILKING 30-1352-1.  I followed the Forum suggestions on the F3 RK PS2 and in other forums.  The coupler will not open, I tried prying & electric clean.  The coupler is solid except for by the latch where there is a small wire.  I moved it with a small screw driver but nothing.  I used Meter as suggested and it showed the Ohms on the coupler.  I tried on the Board and never got a reading.  So could it be a board problem or a bad coupler on the tender?

You can't pry them open, but if you unfold a paperclip and stick it into the coil past the knuckle, you can activate the latch and open the coupler.  If that doesn't work, I'd suspect the coupler has a mechanical issue.  What kind of reading do you get on the coupler coil?  For a PS/2 or PS/3 coupler, it should be between 2 and 4 ohms.

If the coupler opens with the paperclip and you get a good reading across the coil, I'd be looking at the wiring and/or the board.

Ohms on the coupler were 3 to 4 1/2.  The paper clip tool work great, who would of thought.  Wiring looks ok.  Everything else works including coupler sound.  Cost of the Board may not the worth the inconvenience .  The Museum has a tight budget.

A quick question.  We have a K-line Shay Locomotive and some of the wires are pinched and under the motor the insulation is flaking off.  It looks like there may have been a moisture problem .  Is it worth fixing?

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