Lionel Electro-couplers

try raising the voltage a few volts.  I have a couple that need full voltage to fire.

If they are a bit sticky in their operation, a quick puff of graphite powder will normally make them much better. Whatever you do though, don't oil them. Oil will well and truly gum them up.

Thanks fellas. The voltage is 16 volts-- using TMCC at this voltage level.

Will try at 18 volts.

Never occurred to me to try graphite. Will try that on one of the couplers.

 

Al W..

I'm with Dick, I have a number of them that really want the full 18 volt track voltage to fire properly.  OTOH, as Nicole says, lubing them can't be a bad idea, and graphite is the right stuff.

Reviewing the posts, I see I should have said Friends instead of fellas.

Sorry.

 

BTW, the body shell has been off for months and now I can't get it back on--

inteference fit.

 

Al W.

 

 

Here's what happened:

 

With graphite lubrication, the coupler will open when not coupled to a car.

!8 volts plus the graphite will open the coupler when moving and coupled to a car.

 

Al W.

Sounds like a two-prong attack.  

John:

 

Two pronged or two volts.

 

I feel a lot more comfortable with 16 volts, Been running 16 volts for sometime now.

Did not know the couplers were not working at 16v because the loco had been

disassembled for a long time with other problems-- now they are solved

the coupler problem at 16 volts can bee seen.

FWIW, I've seen a number of mine that have issues with uncoupling with a load at lower voltages.  I've pretty much settled on the full 18V for command operation.

 

It is possible to disassemble the couplers and do some polishing that will sometimes lessen or solve the issue.

John:

I am using a MRC dual xfmr. If set at 18v under load, when the load is removed

the voltage goes up to 20 volts. I may have to add some fixed load to help

the voltage regulation .  A ten ohm 20 watt resistor will probably do the trick.---

a terrible waste of power.

Right now my problem is to get the shell back on the chassis.

 

Al W.

Toss a few buildings with 24V bulbs on the layout, ready-built load.

Are the front and rear coupler pins on the motherboard close enough together for him to swap the couplers around to test for a bad Triac?

Good question Dale, it all depends on how much slack is in the coupler wire and how buried they are.  I like the idea of testing them with a transformer, I normally test them with my bench 1033, and usually 12-14 volts will trigger them.  If they don't fire on 16 volts, I figure they have a problem.

 

Here's the Lionel 6-18373 NYC S-2 Electric Parts Diagram and Listing

 

Here's the motherboard for the S2, it's not all that big, so it's quite possible you could stretch them to fit.

 

Thanks Dale and John for pointing me in the right direction. With an LED flashlight and some gentle tugs with my favorite dental probe I was able to trace the wires to the correct connectors. Funny how the front connected to the furthermost rear connector and the back towards the front of the board. Using probe it was easy to release both couplers and confirm both plungers moved freely. If anything the front one closed a little too stiff. I will try the graphite idea. Triacs work. Tested front coupler on both. Rear coupler has no continuity. Must be an open winding on coil. Luckily I bought from Trainz.com. They already said they will send me a replacement no charge. Fred

Sounds like you have it under control.  Other than routing the wires, most times the couplers are pretty easy.  Some Lionel trucks are a bit of a PITA to remove, I've never taken my S-2 apart, so I can't say exactly.

I do not recall ever having read about it on the forum, but I am curious. I have used silicone spray lube for several industrial applications over the years. I use it on sticky plastic couplers with great results. I feel that it is even better than dry graphite in that it does not stain if misapplied. Leaves no greasy film. Easy to get into crevices etc. It may not last as long, but it is easily reapplied. My only caution is that if not properly cleaned from a surface, it may cause " fish eyeing " when painting. But even that is easily corrected by adding a little "Fish Eye Remover" to the paint. Which in itself is a silicone base product. Any one will other cautions or reasons not to use it? Thanks Fred