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SLOW DOWN!!!!
But seriously.... I'd check the electrical connections as it would seem there is a bad one there somewhere. If there isnt' enough surface making contact for a good connection then I think it heats up.
We're not sure what you mean when you mention it is on a switch. Can you give us a little more detail or even better a pic?
You have to get this fixed.. It's a fire hazard. Where are your track feeders located? Does the center rail power goes through the switch feeding the tracks at the other end?Perhaps adding a couple more feeders may help.
Heat indicates a short circuit condition, which can cause problems with most electronics, and worse case scenario, can start a fire. The buzzing you hear is likely coming from the electricity arcing at the location of the short circuit, and the arcing also can create additional heat. Replace the section of track that is getting hot and see if the new replacement section also gets hot. If the new section stays cool, the problem was likely in the old piece of track, if the new section also gets hot, you probably have a wiring problem nearby, and the feeder wires may be getting hot as well. If you need a test meter, Harbor Freight has a small one they frequently put on sale anywhere from $2.99 to $5.99 (sometimes it can be "free with any purchase"). They are good enough to use for most model train needs, and the price is right!
Bill in FtL
I just got done laying a whole layout in Fastrack. Fastrack in general has poor connections out of the box. When I laid down my track I had lots of dead spots and when I turned on the power I would hear buzzing. The simple answer is you have poor connections between the track sections. There is a simple fix. As I was permanently fixing the track to the layout I did this on every single piece, switch, etc.
You just need a needle nose pliers. On the center pins, just bend them slightly toward the outer rail that has the Pin on it. Be careful. You will notice some Fastrack section (like 084 curves) they use a pot metal for center pin. You can snap it off if you bend it to far. Then on the outer rail that has no pin in it, take your needle nose and slightly squeeze the hollow rail closed a little more than it is. On your switches you need to take off those track extensions and do the same on both sides of the extensions. Also on those extensions on the bottom and also on the 1 3/8 track pieces you might be using, they have jumper wires underneath them that join the center rail. Those are typically very loose. I take the wire off and again just squeeze the connectors on the end of the wire tight and then put the jumper back on. Bottom line is when you join the sections together they should be VERY tight on all rails not just the center.
Its a pain but easy fix. I'm posting an entire video on it in a week or so and my experience with the quirks of Fastrack. After doing the above no more buzzing or dead spots. The thing is that all my track was brand new never put together and right out of the box had these issues. Its just a sloppy connection design and their tolerances are pretty wide. Don't throw away or replace the track there is nothing wrong with it that can't be solved with a needle nose pliers.
Gentlemen,
I have had fair sized FasTrack layouts for many years now, I have to admit my track is mostly 1st and 2nd generation FasTrack, being made with the black center rail, and just after, I own no new stuff except for the Command Control switches. None of my track ever gets hot, never buzzes, I do not know if Lionel has down graded the quality of the newer FasTrack or not. I do suggest you send the FasTrack that gets hot back to Lionel and tell them what is happening with it. Replace the problem track right away with good pieces of FT, even if you have to search the Train Shows for 1st or 2nd generation quality FT.
Get rid of the faulty track ASAP. If however, you have not built your layout correctly that comes down to operator error.
PCRR/Dave
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The buzz could also be a switch motor. Like the others have said replace the hot track and see if that fixes it.
The buzz could also be a switch motor. Like the others have said replace the hot track and see if that fixes it.
Non-derailing feature sticking?
Yep