Lionel fast track switch fixed voltage, ( separate power source) .

A common issue with these switches is the Track power terminal and the Aux power terminal are physically reversed at the factory.

Here's a link that discusses how to test and several ways to fix this issue.

O.K.

Thank you . I will follow that link.

Hi,  Since you mentioned that you are using a CW-80, you might want to ensure it is not an early CW-80 which has common on Red. (no need to add that to the mix)  Suggest quick check of the CW-80 with a meter, a bulb or look at the date code on the bottom.  A correctly wired CW-80 will have a G#### or QC50OK for the date code.  If you only have four digits (like 0305) then it likely has common wired to Red. 

S/F Mike

Just to check - are you sure you properly set the auxillary outputs on the CW-80 to a fixed lower voltage, so they are not operating in conjunction with the handle ?

I'm not sure how to do that . I know that you can press all three buttons and when the light blinks you raise it all the way, and then raise it just to where you want the voltage to be set, correct ? Is that possible on the accessory posts as well on the CW-80 ?

Attached are the instructions - you can attach a voltmeter across the accessory terminals to set a more accurate no-load output voltage reading than relying on the handle markings if you want.

Lionel recommends 14 ACV for switches.

Once the accessory voltage is properly set, the handle no longer controls accessory power and only controls track (engine) power.

While you have your voltmeter out, if you haven't already ensured that the presumably 2 or more different transformers (one providing Aux power to the switch and another powering the other connected track) are correctly phased, this would also be a good idea.  If you can measure voltage between the common terminals of the different transformers, they need to be phased to provide reliable operation and consistent voltages.

I’m not that advanced with the tools ( I don’t have a voltmeter and am using a PH-1 to the PM - 1 and have that wired to the “ U” post on the Command base . I am running straight auxiliary power from the CW-80 and have checked that’s nit the older one with the crossed common post .

I have in the past used the tubular 0-31 switches ( 6-62310- 6-62311) and they had the insulated pins to be used to isolate the switch from the track . Since the fast track switch doesn’t use the insulated pins , I thought that removing the track jumper did that same thing .

   I have cut the center pins off of the switch to isolate it ( which is what I saw from another earlier post about this same problem .

Hope that gives some insight. I also viewed the link sent about removing the bottom plate on the switch and the crossed terminal wires from the factory , but I don’t know if I want to try and tackle that .

An inexpensive $5 -10 Digital Multimeter would do what you need and more.  If you're just using it for model railroading, and keep it away from higher voltages, you won't hurt yourself with it, because the voltages and currents involved in model railroading are not dangerous, unless you have a serious heart condition.

Tubular switches and fibre pins are somewhat different than how Fastrack Switches are intended to be isolated.  Power to the rails on FasTrack switches is intended to come from the track they're connect to.  All that's needed to isolate the internal electronics from track power is removing the jumper, IF power is phased correctly AND the switch is wired correctly internally and externally. There are FasTrack pieces that are designed for electrically isolating sections of track, but this has nothing to do with your switch's issues.

The bad news is that breaking off the pins, will not guarantee electrical isolation, and will probably cause issues with correct normal operation, which will require either replacing the 75 cent (each) pins or always wiring Track power, Aux Power, and Ground to the actual corresponding terminals on that switch, after you figure out which terminals are which, and very possibly not as labeled from the factory.

If you need help using a multi-meter, there are lots of online resources and friendly people here to help.

Steve ,

I have a neighbor that most likely has one , and I will seek him out and go from there . At this point , I am going to make sure that the transformers are phased , and it’s not going to ruin me if the fast track doesn’t get sorted out as I’ve always been dubious of it anyway because of space . Redundancy is the main thing at this point as I can always go back to the tubular layout ( which I have ), or , worse case 0-27 of which I have three o-27 ready to run sets that are pristine .

the 0-31 radius , as well as the 0-31 switches are the constraint to pulling that back out as I have two steamers and a GP-20 Lionchief that require that as a minimum curve .

I most appreciate your ( and others help ), on here regarding this issue and will post updates as progress is made 🚂🚂🚂🚂😀😃😀😀👍

You're welcome.  BTW, is your OGR Forum user name related to the song on the Moving Pictures album?

Wow! Yes sir indeed ! Was fortunate enough to have seen them 8 times !!

“ Inspired by a nice morning  drive “ By : Richard S.Foster ..😀😀🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦