Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the internal wiring of the postwar, Lionel, O22 switch?
Thank you
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@Randy Harrison posted:Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the internal wiring of the postwar, Lionel, O22 switch?
Thank you
As seen here https://ogrforum.com/topic/837...50#83790477119313650
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@Vernon Barry posted:
Vernon:
Thank you VERY much!!! That is exactly what I wanted.
Though I hate to further impose upon you and the rest of the followers of this topic (but that won't stop me), do you also have the internal wiring diagram of the internals of the Lionel O22 switch controller? Why I am asking this is that I built a track layout diagram control panel on which I am going to use single-pole double-throw momentary (SPDTM) toggle switches. I am testing, for another forum member, a circuit board with 3 input wires corresponding to the 3 wires coming from the O22 switch motor and has a bi-color LED as the circuit boards output. Upon throwing the SPDTM switch to change the direction of the Lionel O22 track switch, the bi-color LED changes color from red to green and remains lighted. even after the momentary switch breaks contact.
My problem is that I also have many Gar Graves and Ross switches using Z-Stuff, DZ-1000 switch motors that I also want to, from my control panel, control with the SPDTM switch using the same bi-color LED as an indicator light to let the operator know the current position of the track switch prior to throwing the SPDTM switch on the panel. When wiring the circuit board to the controller end of the wires from the DZ-1000 switch motor (as the Lionel O22 was wired), The LED only lights and shows it color when the SPDTM toggle is making electrical and goes off immediately when contact is broken.
My suspicion is that there is something in the wiring of the O22 switch and controller that allows the controller light/s to stay on after the momentary contact is broken. I want to find out what that Lionel wiring is that makes the O22 switch and controller to work the way it does and add it to the DZ-1000 circuit.
Thank you for any help and forgive me for the preceding long-winded explanation.
I don't, but if you take two screws out of the bottom, it's clear what the wiring is inside. There's nothing special there--just contacts and bulbs. The switch position determines which bulb gets power. The lever is common ground. Mine are packed away or I'd post a photo.
I've replaced all 3 lamps with 18 volt LED bulbs from Town and Country.
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@Bruce Brown posted:
I've replaced all 3 lamps with 18 volt LED bulbs from Town and Country.
Bruce:
Thank you VERY much for the complete O22 switch and controller schematic.
There is something about the connection of the controller to the switch I do not understand. If I am interpreting the diagram correctly, it appears that all 3 feeds from the switch to the controller are grounds. If so, that is an impossible functioning circuit. If you can, please explain why my interpretation is in correct?
Thank you again.
Randy,
The point where both A and B coils are connected together is effectively at the track voltage level. By temporarily grounding the opposite sides of the A and B coils via the control switch, it will activate those coils, respectively, and pull the swivel (frog) rail.
The coil and lamp are two resistances in series, acting as a voltage divider. The voltage drop across the bulb is enough so that there is not enough voltage left to operate the coil--until the lever shorts the lamp. With no lamp, the operation is different--there is no path to ground until the lever is moved.
