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Today I accepted delivery of one of Lionel's 6-18892 locomotives; the 2328 Burlington GP-7 from the Postwar Celebration Series.  Purchased new (new old stock, I suppose) from a well-known dealer.  The included documentation starts off by congratulating you on your purchase and telling you to 1) put your new locomotive on the track, 2) add power with your transformer, and 3) get your GP-7 moving.  This is all printed on pages 1-3 of the owner's manual.  When you get to page 5, the manual instructs you to open the shell and install a 9 volt battery - presumably to engage the 'Railsounds' system.

I don't have a new 9 volt battery on hand, but I went ahead and put the locomotive on track, added power, and got the GP-7 moving - all with sound.  After running a bit forward and backward (running conventionally with a Lionel transformer) I shut things down and removed the shell to have a look inside.  There are, in fact, a couple of wires that terminate in a connector-clip for attaching to a 9 volt battery, but there is some kind of 'cap' in place already attached where the battery would connect - almost as if a battery is NOT to be installed.

So I'm a little bit confused.  Have searched online for any clues but so far have come up empty.  The manual that comes with the locomotive is a bit on the generic side - covering the GP-7, GP-9, and GP-20, none of which I am familiar with.

Is someone here familiar with this locomotive and able to advise: Does this locomotive need a battery or not?

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Thanks everyone, for explaining (more clearly and unambiguously than the manual) the purpose of the battery and the plastic cap that is installed by default.  I will install a battery today and hope for uninterrupted sound.

Unrelated to my first question (?), but concerning the same locomotive: The rear coupler opens and releases any trailing car(s) spontaneously and randomly.  I'm currently running, in conventional mode, on a test track that consists of a simple oval (approximately 6' x 9') on the floor.  No uncoupling track, no switches, no grades - just flat straight sections and curves (O48).  The locomotive runs around the track maybe once or twice and then the rear coupler opens and lets go of the train - at random spots, sometimes on a straight section and sometimes on a curve.  No other locomotives that I have behave this way.

Any chance the lack of a battery is related to this behavior?  And, if not, is there an easy solution?  Or, a way to just set the coupler in the closed position so that it won't let go of the train?

Thanks again.

Sam

GunRunnerJohn answered the question on Jan 5, 2020 when someone else asked:

First step, determine if it's mechanical or electrical. Unplug the coupler connection from the motherboard and run, see if the couplers still open. If they still open, it's mechanical, if that "fixes" it, it's electrical.

For electrical issues, install a 1uf 50V non-polarized capacitor across the coupler output, I like to put them under the motherboard across the connector.

For mechanical issues, probably just replace the coupler.

----------------------------------------------------

My suggestion:

Also keep that plastic 9 volt snap connector. Be sure to put it back on the 9 volt connector if you take out the battery.

Where you will notice if the battery is in or not is when you run conventional and turn off the power to bring the engine to

a stop. With the battery in the engine you will give nice shut down sounds. With no battery the sound abruptly stops.

Also remember to remove the 9 volt battery when you store your engine.

PennsyTurbine: Thanks for your suggestions.  I searched this forum and happened upon that post by GRJ before I posted my second question.  I ran through those diagnostic steps and determined that the problem persists with the coupler unplugged from the motherboard.  I also determined that if I turn the GP-7 around, attach trailing cars to the front end, and run the locomotive in reverse, then that (the front) coupler holds fast and does not let go of the train.  A solution of sorts may be to swap front and rear couplers.

gunrunnerjohn: Thanks for the heads-up on the Railsounds battery replacement.  That looks like a worthwhile upgrade.

First things first - I need get my couplers sorted.

Peace,

Sam

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