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@PRR1644 posted:

That is why I wish they had an operating front coupler.

If you want to get an idea of what that engine would look like with an operating coupler, measure the length of the dummy coupler, then measure the length of the coupler on the tender. The difference is how far that coupler would stick out the front of the pilot. There is no room behind the pilot for a coupler unless you removed the pilot wheels.

Pete

Doing a little research on Strasburg locos that have been in their livery, they never had an 0-8-0, but they did, and still do have a 4-8-0.  So when it comes to Lionel and the Strasburg complete train set they sell with an 0-8-0, how much effort and expense do you think would have been involved to just add a 4 wheel pilot truck and make it more prototypical?

I have done more than one front coupler installation, but with thumbtack, usually, Weaver, couplers on locomotives, and recently, a plastic printed McKeen car.  Coupler shanks can be shortened, and other modifications made to coupler and location.  May not be what you consider "operating", or would you wish to modify a new loco?

They come with a dummy claw coupler for double heading. A thumbtack magnetic coupler would have to be just as long as an electro coupler for the armature to work.

I have installed electro couplers on road engines but they had step pilots, not water tube pointed pilots. Still had to have material removed to get decent coupler swing.

Pete

Good Evening Everyone,

A little late to the party but here are the observations of my new Lionel Legacy 1970's Strasburg #89.   When acquiring a new Lionel steamer,  my standard practice is to grease/lube everything,  which includes getting inside the gearbox for a look-see and check for grease.   Removing the bottom chassis plate gives access to all three axles along with gearbox access.   My engine had NO grease anywhere on  the gears,  only a little blob stuck to the inside wall of the gearbox.   I completely packed the gearbox with grease.   While back driving and rotating the drive assembly I also applied grease directly onto the gear teeth.   Also oiled the axle bearings/journals before putting the bottom plate back on.   The siderods/crank pins were also oiled.   I then removed the engine shell to gain access to the smoke unit.   Removed the smoke unit cover to which the resistor and thermistor are soldered to on the underside.   According to previous Lionel info here on the forum,  the gap between the two is supposed to be around 1.6mm(.063")-mine were factory set at 1/8"(3.2mm).   I closed  the gap on mine and ended up at 1.7mm(.067").

So,  this weekend our club is set up at the Monroeville Pa Greenberg show and I finally got to run my engine.   Happy to report that after 4 1/2 hours of continuous running it ran flawlessly!   Everything worked exactly the way it was supposed to.   We are a modular club that runs on Gargraves track with Ross/Gargraves switches and after many years of use some of the trackwork isn't pretty especially at the joints where the modules connect.   The engine didn't derail one time including on the straight route through the switches(didn't have the opportunity to travel through the curved route).   I was pulling a consist of 5 MTH 64' woodside cars in the green/yellow livery that were a Nicholas Smith special run a few years back.   Using my Cab 2 remote with the club legacy base,  the engine was able to run with it's consist at speed step 1 without stalling of jerking.   There were a couple of videos shot which will probably show up on youtube.   So after a few precautions,  I'm very happy with this engine.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
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