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I am running a ZW with the add on volt/amp meter. The problem is on the right side. Left side is turned off. Right side is using one brick for 2 tracks.

Voltage is 13 Volts on both tracks. Current draw is 3. 4amps on one track and .7 amps on the second track

I have an MTH PS2 locomotive on the track running conventional mode.. Until 5 days ago everything has worked fine since last summer.

Then some strange things started to happen. For some unknown reason the train stopped. Thinking I tripped a breaker in the brick I hit the reset button. Repeat performance. Not finding anything on the track I removed all cars, leaving the engine and tender. Same result. I checked the brick, and as it turned out , the brick was not tripping out. Tried another brick same result. Thought maybe the power strip was a problem. Swapped a known good power strip. No change.

Then things got really strange. If power went down the only way I could get power back was to either turn off the power strip or the brick. During this trouble shooting it felt like the handle on the right side had a different feel when moving to increase the voltage.

I can run the train, but when I bring the train to a halt, throttle in the off position, after a minute or so the crew talk starts. The voltage shows as approx 1 Volt, not zero. The only way to get complete shut down, is to turn off the brick or the power strip.

I believe the problem is in the control box. Has anyone else run in to this problem? Fix?



Thanks

Charlie

Columbi,Pa

Last edited by CPC
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Charlie,  There are some very well done videos by Mike Reagan when he ran Lionel Service.   They are on YouTube.  He opens the case and discusses various issues that owners tend to run into, and his fixes are well laid out, so you can stop the video while you work on yours.   I assume we are talking ZW-C set up, but using the throttles to change track voltage ?   I have been using a ZW-C but only in Legacy and Command mode so I am not moving the throttles continuously. 

I have a ZW-C with the same power bricks. It is fairly old now and has had a lot of use. I have started noticing that one handle when put in the powered down position is still feeding a small amount of current to the track - it results in some LED lighting glowing dimly. I switch it off at the brick to prevent this. Like yours, it is the right handle that is acting up, although that may just be coincidence.

I think that this is a mechanical issue relating to that lever but as I have not had this transformer open at any time I can’t be sure if a gear or other adjustable piece has got out of synch or what. I think that there is a Mike R. video showing what the insides look like because of another known issue with these units.

In that respect, you don’t happen to have a TMCC or Legacy base connected to or in the vicinity of this, do you? The ZW-C has some quirks about command operation and at one stage Lionel issued a replacement chip to address them. One thing is that it has to be turned on before the base is in order to operate at all and will respond to certain CAB commands. I had to reset mine in order to stop it being command controlled - just a thought but yours might be “confused” by the presence of a signal from a base if it is nearby and switched on. I basically use mine as a dumb fixed 18 volt power source because I run trains via Legacy or a DCS TIU.

Last edited by Hancock52
@CPC posted:

Chris,

How do I identify a ZW-C. I looked but didn't see  any marking, but then it was late when I looked.

Thanks

Charlie

The ZW-C is a plastic and fairly light unit into which the power bricks are plugged. It’s not a self-contained transformer like other ZW models as the house current is stepped down by the bricks; the unit is a kind of rheostat (sorry if that’s the wrong technical term) for adjusting power to the track and it has a command control capability.

Mine does not look like the pictures posted above; FWIW here are photos of the top and back. I can’t see that it’s labeled “ZW-C” anywhere but that was on the box and the manual:

510DB524-5A92-479A-A2C1-9D77A25A04D05709F74C-ECC2-4435-9C38-CEA1BA4C8F54

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@MartyE posted:

He has the add on meter assembly installed.  That's why it doesn't look like yours.

Actually the main difference I spotted is the way the posts are labeled on the back, with separate upper and lower lettering:

8CDD80C5-F2A6-4581-817D-73DFD6128DD2

Also his casing doesn’t look plastic and I wondered whether the power cord is fixed in place. But I don’t know, after trying to check, whether there were different versions of the ZW-C produced. Mine is about 17 years old.

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Again those markings are part of the meter assembly which basically covers the back of the ZW controller. If you Google the meter you can see how it looks.  I don't want to post a picture I don't own here

@Hancock52 posted:

Actually the main difference I spotted is the way the posts are labeled on the back, with separate upper and lower lettering:

8CDD80C5-F2A6-4581-817D-73DFD6128DD2

Also his casing doesn’t look plastic and I wondered whether the power cord is fixed in place. But I don’t know, after trying to check, whether there were different versions of the ZW-C produced. Mine is about 17 years old.

Last edited by MartyE

I just had mine completely disassembled to replace the molex connector to the left of the 'A' post. A common problem I've had through the years is when turning the 'A' throttle to quickly, the plastic bracket that the resistor pots are attached to flex and the pot falls out of sync with the handle. I think Lionel made a replacement bracket from metal, but I rarely run conventional and know to just go easy on the throttle.

The fix has always been simple. I remove the cover, slightly loosen the two screws that hold the pot bracket, place a volt meter across the 'A' post and common, address and dial up track one to full voltage, then rotate the pot while disengaged to the handle gear until the meter just reads zero. Make sure the handle is in the zero position. Once you got this, tighten the bracket then turn the throttle all the way up to verify you have full voltage. I did this a number of times until I learned to move the throttle slowly! It sounds like this could be your problem.

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