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 I upgraded to legacy about two years ago from tmcc and up until about two months ago

eveything has worked fine. I have three legacy engines and five tmcc engines. I have the

tmcc base connected to the legacy base with the proper cable., and the legacy base is connected to the outer rail. The problem I have is that all engines no longer work

correctly when the legacy base is attached. The legacy base is getting signal from  the

handheld as I see the red light flicker on the base when a command is entered. Of interest is that all engines experience thier headlights flickering when the legacy base is hooked

up.When I disconnect the legacy base and only use the tmcc base and handheld, all engines

work correctly and their is no headlight flicker. I called Lionel and they had me send

the legacy unit to them. Upon its return I find the only real thing done was to replace

the charging circuit that has not worked for a long time. I have been using regular

alkaline batteries with no problems. Upon hooking the unit back  to my layout, I find

there has been no change in performance. We have had a lot of elecrical storms in my

area this summer and I wondered if ligthning could have damaged something. One final

comment, as a final test I had one tmcc engine that had not been on my track and when

I placed it on the rails it responds exactly the same as the others. No good when legacy

is on line and perfect when legacy is disconnected on only tmcc is being used. Does

anybody have any thoughts?

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The only thing I can recommend other than that is to take the Legacy base only with a short test track, say just a circle of track.  Test it there and see if you can get any reaction.

 

My guess is it's still having a problem, but testing on a totally different track is something I like to do before I'm sure.

 

If that fails, send the base back to Lionel again.

I tried gunrunner John's suggestion and it appeared to work until I placed a tmcc engine on the small section of track. I'm getting continuous flickering in the

headlights with the legacy base attached. I think the problem is in the output

stage of the base. I will e-mail Lionel. I wish I could get a loaner and swap out.

 

I am having exact same problem fatum.  Layout worked fine for years then I went to use it after a month of sitting and flickering lights became the norm after absolutely no changes to layout.   Unplug legacy and just use tmcc base and everything works great.  Legacy back to lionel twice, couldn't find anything wrong beside charging circuit which I don't use either.  I have tried using different outlet, different surge protector, more wires to common on track, and nothing changes.  Wish I had another legacy base to try but don't know of any local.  Any suggestions appreciated.

Originally Posted by fatum:

I tried gunrunner John's suggestion and it appeared to work until I placed a tmcc engine on the small section of track. I'm getting continuous flickering in the

headlights with the legacy base attached. I think the problem is in the output

stage of the base. I will e-mail Lionel. I wish I could get a loaner and swap out.

 

What exactly "appeared to work" until setting a tmcc engine on the track?

I did not send power supply and am kicking myself now for not doing that.  Can lightning cause something to go bad in a house earth ground?  That is the only thing I can think of that has happened after my layout got the flickering light syndrome all of a sudden out of nowhere.  Was gonna take a peek inside power supply receptacle but it has some strange triangle screws.

Another thing I just learned is that if I hold a earth ground wire (copper water pipe in basement) right above loco flicker stops.  As soon as wire gets a foot or so above loco flicker returns.  What does that say???

The third wire, ground post, on the transformer AC plug is connected directly to the outside ring on the power connector that goes to the Legacy Base. You should measure near zero ohms when measuring resistance from the ground pin on the plug to the outside barrel on the power plug...probably will show around 0.3 or so ohms on your digital meter.

If that is true, then the power supply cube is not the problem. Making sure that your ground system on your house AC outlet is good would be a next step. There are inexpensive devices for sale at Lowe's, Menard's, etc. that you can check this with by simply plugging the device into the wall outlet and observing the indication on the device. They are about as big as a plug on an appliance cord. Good to have in any case to check critical areas such as bath, kitchen, outside, and garage outlets for ground integrity.

If that is all ok, then I would connect a spare wire to the AC ground of the house outlet and distribute it under the layout. You can attach this wire to pin #5 of the 9 pin connector of your Base, or using a small crimp on terminal, attach it to the screw holding the outlet cover onto the wall outlet. Be careful there near and around the wall outlet...goes without saying...but just sayin'. If you have copper plumbing, the house AC ground is likely connected to that somewhere. You can attach your under the layout ground wire to that if it is easier and is in fact grounded...and it sounds like it is.

If you had a lightning strike to your house or very near your house you may want to check your ground wire from the breaker/ fuse panel to the ground rod itself and especially the ground wire to rod connection. It may take some finding as it is generally buried somewhere near where your service enters the house. Do this after doing what cjack suggests.

Ron

I am relieved to hear that someone else is having the exact same problem. At least

I know I am not imagining this problem. I agree with niart, in that I wish I had acess

to another legacy unit to see how it responds. I have re-sent the unit back to Lionel

and I think they are going to replce the communication board. My home has two

eight foot ground rods about four feet apart, and I can freely see them. I will re-check

to verify the cadle is intact. We have a well so there is no continuous ground with

municipal plumbing. I guess my only continous common is with the electric supply to

the house from the grid. 

I realize that I should have given more information. My track power comes from a

postwar ZW and KW that are properly phased, however they do not have grounded

plugs. Should I run a wire from the chasis to the groung pin on the outlet? Would

I first need to verify if the chasis is now connected to the neutral or common side

of the outlet? The plugs are not polarized.

The Legacy (and TMCC) use the ground wire system in your house as an antenna...and it radiates to the antenna in the engine. The sort of common side of the receiver is connected to the outside rail from the U connector on the Legacy Base. Calling the ground wire system a "ground something or other" has caused a lot of confusion. Many of us have an additional wire connected to the ground pin on the AC outlet and run it under the layout for a better signal. Actually the best place to get that connection is Pin #5 on the Legacy Base serial connector.

Originally Posted by fatum:

I tried gunrunner John's suggestion and it appeared to work until I placed a tmcc engine on the small section of track. I'm getting continuous flickering in the

headlights with the legacy base attached. I think the problem is in the output

stage of the base. I will e-mail Lionel. I wish I could get a loaner and swap out.

 

FYI, I just fixed a new base that had these symptoms and it turned out to be a loose nut on the inside that attaches the circuit board to the U post output. The thing is that this might work for a day (as it did in this case) or a year before it becomes intermittent or doesn't work. The tab that is supposed to be fastened tightly to the post inside would probably touch an make contact until it oxidized or moved slightly and become intermittent or quit.

I'm not saying this is your problem, but you might watch Mike Reagan's YouTube video about Sine Waves in regards to Postwar transformers and Legacy engines. Also you don't mention if you are running any circuit protection?
 
Originally Posted by fatum:

I realize that I should have given more information. My track power comes from a

postwar ZW and KW that are properly phased, however they do not have grounded

plugs. Should I run a wire from the chasis to the groung pin on the outlet? Would

I first need to verify if the chasis is now connected to the neutral or common side

of the outlet? The plugs are not polarized.

Originally Posted by niart:

I am having exact same problem fatum.  Layout worked fine for years then I went to use it after a month of sitting and flickering lights became the norm after absolutely no changes to layout.   Unplug legacy and just use tmcc base and everything works great.  Legacy back to lionel twice, couldn't find anything wrong beside charging circuit which I don't use either.  I have tried using different outlet, different surge protector, more wires to common on track, and nothing changes.  Wish I had another legacy base to try but don't know of any local.  Any suggestions appreciated.

How many locos do you have and do all of them exhibit the same symptoms or just one? Have you cleaned the track?, the latest legacy locos are more sensitive to dirty track.

Yes,second nut was actually flopping around loose inside plastic housing of base.  Mine had phillips screws to take out bottom of base.  Put the tab out of circuit board between nuts and tightened gently.

 

How many locos do you have and do all of them exhibit the same symptoms or just one? Have you cleaned the track?, the latest legacy locos are more sensitive to dirty track.

 

Cleaned track per lionel suggestion and no change.  TMCC locos are much worse as they will stall and flicker bad.  Legacy locos will work fine but have occasional not so bad flickering lights and will just occasionally stall.

 

Ok, niart brought his Legacy base over this AM and we measured the 455 KHz output of the U terminal. Guess what...it was dc offset about 3 volts positive and only about 1 volt peak to peak instead of 6 volts PP with no dc offset that we measured on a working Legacy base.

It did run a Legacy engine and a TMCC engine, but another TMCC engine had the flickering headlight. Weak 455 KHz signal.

Lionel needs to measure the output of the U terminal when they are investigating a base that has issues with layout size and some engines and not others.

I just clipped the probe of a Tek 2215 on the  U terminal. Since the scope is plugged into a grounded outlet, there didn't seem to be any place for the ground clip but the difference between it and a good base made it obvious as to what the issue was. I kind of suspected that before I saw the suspect base and did measure mine last night just to see what should be there, and measured them both this AM just to be sure and document the results. I wonder of course if this could be the answer to the problem some others have.

My Legacy had similar issues as datum and niart. I wound up sending the unit to Lionel, and they replaced the communication board and fixed the charger function. I would suspect that yes ding back the unit for a repair will be what needs to happen. My Legacy was also two years old. The repair was free; I a only had to pay for shipping.

 

When returned, the Legacy worked perfectly. Good luck with yours, guys!

 

Bruce

Thankyou everyone for the constructive comments. My legacy unit is at Lionel now.

When I spoke to customer service before this latest return, I got the feeling that

the focus was going to be on the communication board. It is quite a relief to find

others who have had the same problem, and to know there IS a potential fix

out there. I will post when my unit comes back, with what I hope will be good news.

I hope everyone who has commented on this problem reads what I have learned. I

received my legacy base and cab2 back from Lionel today and after re-installing

it to my layout, I am pleased to report that ALL functions are working correctly.

The tech person replaced the comminications board, and that did the trick. For anyone interested, the part number is 6914295002.  If you are having symtoms such as I did

this may help.

Post

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