Looking for O gauge Free-mo module design standards for my O27 projects

Free-mo 3-rail standards where never created

I always loved the idea of Free-mo.  I was a modular Hi-railer for years.  All of the driving, setup, tear-down, and especially round-and-round running wore out my enthusiasm.  I would love to see someone take this idea and run with it!!

Part of the point of Free-mo, in other scales, is to be very light on standards. Hence the Free part.

You'll need a height standard for the modules, a basic electrical connection standard and a track alignment standard, where the track ends are perpendicular to the edges they terminate on. Module size and shape are "free" to be anything you want. If you want multiple parallel tracks, you'll also need a track spacing standard. Free-mo layouts are usually very irregular, unlike say N-track, which has a lot of standards.

This could be a cool way to do a layout, because with 3 rail it's easy to have end modules with reverse loops. The middle modules can have straights and curves to your heart's content. Build a long module or two with a passing siding, and you can run multiple trains with automation. 

You being the first, you can set the few necessary standards, then if anyone wants to join in, they follow your lead. You could call it "Free-m-027".

BTW, Ted's comment on all the "schlepping" involved with doing shows is well taken. I used to take my modular layout out multiple times per year, but I got too old to do all that work.

There was a proposal out for a US O scale FreeMo standard. George Losse was spearheading that. Basically, there are three key points to remember with FreeMo (FreMo in Europe):

• The module ends are the key. The mainline is centered at the module ends and the modules are set to the same rail-head height. Everything in between the ends of the module (or module set) is up for grabs.
• Wiring standards are a bit different from "loop running" modular operation. There are only two wires for track power. The hot rail (red wire) is on the right rail/negative (black wire) is on the left as you face the end of the module. This makes the modules reversible.
• Curves have to be a LOT wider than typical 3-rail curves. We're talking about 60" radius (O-120) minimum with 72" radius (O-144) preferred. This was pretty much the Achilles Heel of the standard because we're talking about a HUGE area consumed by a turnaround loop. Even if the module set was to be 3-rail only, 48" radius (O-96) would improve the aesthetics and operation of longer trains.

I had proposed that the 2-rail and 3-rail communities pool their resources on FreeMo by adding a center rail wire for 3-rail (white). This would enable the use of 3-rail mode for 3-rail-only assemblies, but maintain compatibility with 2-rail/mixed setups (the mindset was that a three-rail operator would be able to throw together a two-rail train or two). The preferred 3-rail track in the discussion was Atlas with standard Ross turnouts because the running rails are insulated from each other. The connections between modules would be butt-joined rails rather than bridging sections.

That said, I'm pretty sure I have a standards list around somewhere, plus several RR-Track FreeMo module concept designs. Drop me an E-mail off-list and I'll dig it up.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Matt. Check your e-mail.

PatKelly posted:

I don't see this anywhere on the internet. Has anyone adapted the Free-mo concept for O gauge? I'm looking for this for my personal rural track design, more compact, O27 closer-scaled rail, highly scenic'd layout

Thanks Matt, Ted, Elliott and Mike for the responses. Looks like I'm alone in this so I'm gonna move forward with some input from my local historical train society and experiment to see where this goes. I'm thinking of something more of O27 a step up in running, looks, FUN and bit more compactness as trains for everyone.  

I have been participating in HO Free-mo since 2010 and even that has a very low participation level (around here at least)  Best bet would be to come up with some specs, publish them here and elsewhere, and wait.  I think that there are number of folks would be interested in such a thing but unfortunately, are too spread out to make it worthwhile. 

Unfortunately, venue is an issue for Free-mo get togethers.  We have two this year.  One is a small town that lets us use their park district building for a weekend and another is at a college courtesy of a current student.  We also do major train shows like Trainfest but they tend to be a PITA to get in to setup, parking, crowds, wandering hands, etc.

Brendan  

One thing I forgot to say... I would avoid the temptation to use ACTUAL O27 track and switches (i.e., Lionel 5122's), because although super-cheap, they are very limiting, even to some Postwar equipment.  For at least 10 years now, all Lionel starter sets have included O36 Fasttrack, and some locos (such as the Hogwarts Express) require that as a minimum.  MTH claims O31 for a lot of their RailKing stuff, but their larger steam and diesels look and run better on wider curves.  If you want your system to be inclusive for guest operators, I wouldn't use anything less than O36.  Because Fasttrack is so ubiquitous, you might consider making that your standard.  Atlas also makes great-looking O36 curves and switches.  But these can occasionally be hard to find.  If the noise from Fasttrack bothers you, I would step up to Ross O42.   On a tabletop layout you would be giving up a lot, but for a modular around the walls plan, the shorter straightaways won't be a deal-breaker.  The combined rail and tie height for Ross is only slightly taller than Lionel O27.  My $.02.

I'm not a fan of Fastrack, but for this application, it does seem like a good choice. Matt mentioned earlier about connections at module edges, butt joints vs filler pieces. If you go with Fastrack, use fillers, because the pins will stick out if you don't, and they aren't made to come out. They have nice short pieces available. They all need to be the same length to maintain a standard.

Sounds like you're going to be a one man show for a while with this project. You get to set the standards, and maybe when others see it, they'll want to join.

I've been a misfit since the 80's Brendan when I was doing N scale code 55 alone in the wilderness and I expect nothing different, especially now that I'm retired with time to indulge myself with uber scenery and relaxation...just the trains are bigger. I just like some guidelines and working with a plan in mind; don't want a roundy-round but even a mini/compact with possibilities and imagination. A long and narrow'd be even better...even if I'm the only one doing it.