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There is a really nice set of Marx AA Santa Fe #21s that I was thinking of buying.  The only issue is the motor does not work.  I can live with the price if the motor is an easy fix but I have no experience with Marx.  I always read that the motors were dead simple and bulletproof but I just don't know how to proceed.  What possible issues could these motors have and can they be fixed?  Any information would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks

Scott

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Hi, Scott,

Marx motors are pretty much bullet proof and it usually doesn't take much to wake up a long slumbering unit. After removal from the engine, a cleaning and lube usually will get one percolating in short order with a sticky reverse unit being the most typical problem area and a few shots of cleaner along with cycling the actuator by hand will get it working. With the exception of a wheel puller, no special tools are needed to work on a Marxie and parts, if needed, are available.

 

Jim McClenin

No. 21's are common and not the most sought after of Marx...the plastic #1095 ATSF

version are possibly more desireable, so it is easy to find other #21's..  Most problems are simple, though, such as a broken wire to the collector (resolder), dirty commutator, or worn brushes (if really cosmetically nice, may not have been run much) and not the problem.  Often touching transformer wires to collector and wheels will get them to spin, and then it is just cleaning them up.

since i have a working #21 AA pair, i'll admit that i haven't given the motor a lot of attention over the years, but in general my advice would be to go with the nice shells regardless of the state of the motor.  it is a heck of a lot easier to either get that motor you have going, or to find a junker shell with a good motor vs. finding excellent condition shells.

Well, the only ATSF cars Marx made are those silver ones I think you are mentioning,

and I think they are too small for the #21 and go better with the #1095, but they

certainly came in sets from Marx with each other.  I think the #21 was ginned up to

compete with the Lionel successful ATSF locos, and with the threat from Unique with

their attractive Rock Island diesels (which had the weird coupler that dampened sales).

The 21 was produced from around 1950 to around 1954. The plastic 1095 appeared in 1952, so the metal ones popularity faded out after that.

 

The motor won't pull that many aluminum cars, and the AMT cars pull harder than Lionel ones.

 

You might get two powered 21 units and hook them together.

If the motor does end up needing to be replaced, you can use a motor out of a 1095. You. Would just need a different screw to hold it in place, and a nut. It seems like ebay is full of 1095s that are cracked painted or otherwise. Plus the 1095 usually has a double reduction motor which will allow your 21 to navigate non Marx switches. I think the idea of using two motors would be a good one, as mine seems rather anemic. I was thinking about how to do it with both motors in one unit though. 

 

J White

 

Originally Posted by srook:

       

Thanks for the help.  I got em.  They should be here within the week.  The Marx Santa Fe streamlined passenger cars are too small for the #21 correct?  I would like to stay with tin litho or at least aluminum cars from the PW period.  What passenger cars fit these beasts?

 

Thanks

Scott


       

Scott,
there are no passenger cars that will match the #21-scale. While most of the common cars are build in 1:48 , you need at least a scale of 1':43 as we had it in Europe.
The only matching cars that I know were made by ZEUKE, an East-German manufactor.


Marx F21 and ZEUKE BC4ü-passenegr-cars

Got the #21 today.  Connected a 1033 to it and it ran fine.  Cleaned and lubed the motor as well as the shells and wheels.  A few questions:

 

The litho on the powered unit is dull.  It is the body only.  The nose and front are nice and shiny.  The litho is in great shape it just doesn't have the shine of the dummy unit.  Did some of these come duller than others?

 

The powered unit is HEAVY.  Can I take some meat off the weight to lighten it up a little and maybe pull some heavier cars?

 

The headlight plastic is cracked.  Are replacements available anywhere?

 

Finally, the 2 spacers that fit between the motor sideplates were missing.  Does anyone know how thick they are?

 

Thanks

Scott

 

 

Scott

Different batches of litho varied and Marx made no real effort to match color batches. Parts was parts. What you describe is very common. The 21 was not the best puller so I would not remove any weight, it needs it and maybe a few ounces more. If I really wanted to pull a bit more with a 21, a motor from a 1095 with traction tires is the way to go.

The spacer is pretty close to 1/8".  Robert Grossman has the headlights, art number 205, http://www.trainpartsformarx.c...htm#DIESEL%20ENGINES

 

Steve

 

 

Originally Posted by RoyBoy:

The 21 was produced from around 1950 to around 1954. The plastic 1095 appeared in 1952, so the metal ones popularity faded out after that.

 

The motor won't pull that many aluminum cars, and the AMT cars pull harder than Lionel ones.

 

You might get two powered 21 units and hook them together.

I have had had vrry good luck reducing friction in PW trains using LaBelle products which have "teflon" in the lube.

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