Does anyone know if any train companys make a engine with a micro camera built in it, or is it something that has to be made from a engine that I already have?
Thanks for any info
Sean
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Lionel had their RailScope GP9 locomotive 20 some odd years ago. Black and white, crude by today's standards, was a battery hog and depending on your railroad, need choke coils placed periodically to improve the signal.
Nobody, to my knowledge, makes a similar system today.
Rusty
Nobody, to my knowledge, makes a similar system today.
Rusty
We had one that was made by K-Line but it was a flatbed car with the camera setup on it and we had to put it front of the engine and push it around the track. but the pickups for it woreout and the replacement pickups didn't last long.
well thanks for the info
Sean
well thanks for the info
Sean
ChooChoo Cam is a superior track powered camera http://www.choochoocam.com/
The picture quality is excellent. I installed the kit in a dummy F3 years ago and it still works great. They will install in your engine if you wish.
The picture quality is excellent. I installed the kit in a dummy F3 years ago and it still works great. They will install in your engine if you wish.
Thanks Susan this is what I was looking for great info.
Thanks again
Sean
Thanks again
Sean
I just received a small helmet camera called Contour HD 108OP . On sale for 50 bucks. Tested it last night for the first time.
The camera train is getting a lot of red signals as it is chasing a slower one, which you may spot in the distance. Note, my block system uses 40 watt 5 ohm resisters across each electrical gap. No more completely dead track, brick wall stops or traction tire ripping starts. Also E units stay latched so no more programming for one direction running.
Even though I thought the train was not fast the camera picture looks otherwise. Click on picture for video. A bit long. Use full screen with sound up.
The camera train is getting a lot of red signals as it is chasing a slower one, which you may spot in the distance. Note, my block system uses 40 watt 5 ohm resisters across each electrical gap. No more completely dead track, brick wall stops or traction tire ripping starts. Also E units stay latched so no more programming for one direction running.
Even though I thought the train was not fast the camera picture looks otherwise. Click on picture for video. A bit long. Use full screen with sound up.
quote:Originally posted by gunrunnerjohn:
Here's a lot cheaper option that you can install yourself.
Thanks, I just ordered one. On sale now.
John
How are you powering the inexpensive remote cam?
That's a great question. Depending on the answer, I may purchase one of those cheapies myself!
The easiest way is to tap off track power and use a full wave bridge, an electrolytic cap, and a three terminal regulator.
"The easiest way is to tap off track power and use a full wave bridge, an electrolytic cap, and a three terminal regulator."
And there you have it.
Now, for those of us less well-versed in such things, how does one assemble this?
And there you have it.
Now, for those of us less well-versed in such things, how does one assemble this?
quote:Originally posted by gunrunnerjohn:
The easiest way is to tap off track power and use a full wave bridge, an electrolytic cap, and a three terminal regulator.
If you do not mind batteries, a 9 volt is fine.
You take the rectifier bridge, wire the track pickups to the AC terminals, they're the ones with the sine wave symbol on them. The DC comes out on the + and - terminals. Connect the electrolytic across those terminals with the proper polarity. Connect the input of the three terminal 9V regulator to the + side, the ground to the - side, and the output and ground supplies 9 volts. Here's a circuit drawing, you can use diodes or the bridge component. The capacitors are 47uf 50V electrolytics, and the regulator is an LM7809 or similar in the TO-92 package.quote:Originally posted by jjm:
"The easiest way is to tap off track power and use a full wave bridge, an electrolytic cap, and a three terminal regulator."
And there you have it.
Now, for those of us less well-versed in such things, how does one assemble this?
Ignore the 5V in my picture, it was for a 5V design, the 9V is identical except the part is different. The transformer illustrated is your track voltage.
I did some checking and the camera I'm using cost me about a hundred bucks, not fifty. They are discontinued; however I see they are currently available for $137.00.
Battery operated with Micro SD card storage. I just put it on a flat car with a rubber band. The lens can be rotated for laying on either side or standing up.
Here is a video, click on picture, of a fast freight following a slower one.
Battery operated with Micro SD card storage. I just put it on a flat car with a rubber band. The lens can be rotated for laying on either side or standing up.
Here is a video, click on picture, of a fast freight following a slower one.
quote:Originally posted by gunrunnerjohn:You take the rectifier bridge, wire the track pickups to the AC terminals, they're the ones with the sine wave symbol on them. The DC comes out on the + and - terminals. Connect the electrolytic across those terminals with the proper polarity. Connect the input of the three terminal 9V regulator to the + side, the ground to the - side, and the output and ground supplies 9 volts. Here's a circuit drawing, you can use diodes or the bridge component. The capacitors are 47uf 50V electrolytics, and the regulator is an LM7809 or similar in the TO-92 package.quote:Originally posted by jjm:
"The easiest way is to tap off track power and use a full wave bridge, an electrolytic cap, and a three terminal regulator."
And there you have it.
Now, for those of us less well-versed in such things, how does one assemble this?
Ignore the 5V in my picture, it was for a 5V design, the 9V is identical except the part is different. The transformer illustrated is your track voltage.
Just make sure that the track ground common is not crossed with the ground symbol wires. In other words two wires from the power roller and truck frame common, and two wires out 9V and ground. But then you already knew this right?
Check out this thread on the 2R forum. Not mine but I like it. malcolm
http://ogaugerr.infopop.cc/eve...1048701/m/4072906817
http://ogaugerr.infopop.cc/eve...1048701/m/4072906817
Well, I knew this, but it's certainly good to mention, that was an omission on my part.quote:Originally posted by rrman:
Just make sure that the track ground common is not crossed with the ground symbol wires. In other words two wires from the power roller and truck frame common, and two wires out 9V and ground. But then you already knew this right?
BTW, I like the camera I posted because it broadcasts to a composite signal, and you can record it or display it on a TV and watch the train progress live. 
I bought the Wireless Micro Color Cam years ago and use it at our club with great success. www.WirelessMicroColorCam.com
The unit hinted by gunrunnerjohn is very similar but the price is much much better, I ordered one for my home layout.
The unit hinted by gunrunnerjohn is very similar but the price is much much better, I ordered one for my home layout.
WOW, four times the price for what looks to be the same functionality! Nice work if you can get it.
John,
Does the signal from the camera to the receiver of the Tiny 2.4ghz wireless camera require line-of-sight to work? Would Plaster of Paris or pink foam insulation tunnel walls interefere with the signal?
Thanks
Alex
I bought one of these little cameras but now discover that the TV I planned to use does not have a “component” input. Is there a way to use this with a coaxial cable input?
If the camera outputs component (red/green/blue RCA cables), and your TV only has a coaxial connector, you're generally out of luck. The camera is probably outputting video at a higher resolution that the TV you're planning to use (an old unused set, right?) is capable of displaying anyway.
It's technically possible to string together a bunch of converter boxes to possibly get a standard-def composite output, then use an old VCR or an RF converter to get a coaxial connector. Chances are by then you may be better off getting a smalll LCD digital tV which is pretty much guaranteed to have a component input.
---PCJ
Ed you can get a component to RF converter that they used for dvd's or games. It converts the signal to channel 3 or 4 to your tv. If they still make it was available at Radio shack . Hope this helps, Vic.
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
BTW, I like the camera I posted because it broadcasts to a composite signal, and you can record it or display it on a TV and watch the train progress live.
Can you get a clean signal on your TV? The problem with the older cameras at least was the noise spikes generated by the sparking rollers would interfere with the broadcast signal. Not a problem for a camera with on board memory used for later play back.
Pete
Depending on how large the layout is, you can get some interference as it runs. I'm looking into the higher end models that are used for model airplanes and have a 1 mile or more range, they might be more solid.
Originally Posted by Ingeniero No1:
John,
Does the signal from the camera to the receiver of the Tiny 2.4ghz wireless camera require line-of-sight to work? Would Plaster of Paris or pink foam insulation tunnel walls interefere with the signal?
Thanks
Alex
No, but you would have to light your tunnel somehow to see anything.
John
Thanks Subway Vic. I bought a modulator at Radio Shack and it now works quite well. I do lose the signal in parts of a tunnel but, as someone mentioned, it would be dark in there anyway. It works very well around the rest of the track. The only problem is that the lighting on my layout is not very bright and the picture is rather dark. I will have to think about whether I want to change the lighting.
