Migrating from HO plan to O scale..

Have I somehow failed in my writing skills?

I am hoping for some one to spend a little time to convert with a computer this plan from HO to O scale. It does not have to be precise as it will become a working space as I will be able to see what space is required to work with.

I have not been very good at drawing other than on pencil and napkins. And tend to waste a lot of trackage become surplus trying to fit everything together.

Take care everyone and have a great week!

Lee,

I'm a graph paper and pencil guy myself, but have converted a few track plans between the gauges.  In general, when converting an island type plan from HO to O, the main problem is providing access. Invariably, dimensions need to be more than doubled and interior track positions adjusted to provide for access hatches.

I've always liked that plan. At one time I considered using it as the basis for an On30 layout. I think the idea of a long "branch line" ending in a upper switching yard/wye is a good one. 

If part of the wye could be run into another space off to the right, you could probably push the run-around track and wye up toward the top of the plan to open up the middle for better access to this trackage. 

Jim

Lee this is a Classic design.  Is this from John Armstrong or Kalmbach book?

This plan is basically 5'x8' in HO scale, with 5' leg at the left.  Roughly double those dimensions for O scale 10' x 16'. I do like your idea as Jim noted extending the wye  into a yard area/staging area.

 Around the walls might give you easier access to those hard to reach places and or if you do not mind crawling under the layout and maybe having an access hatch or two. Jim's idea of making this an ON30 layout is a great idea, that said your looking for O. 

George

Yes It was one of the plans in a book somewhere, I don't recall. I have been working on this one for a while.

I may have to flip it right to left and make openings for access. And I think one of the legs of the wye will be traffic to and from staging. If everything works out it will be built; but with small changes and not exactly a copy of what is up on the page itself.

That's in one of the "Klambake" layout books I have. The problem with H.O. plans is that, while you can double them from 4x8/5x8 to 8x16/10x16, they become unwieldy because of the reach factor and need to place access hatches. The hot ticket would be to convert it to an around the walls design. At the same time, you can bump up the curve size to be better suited to the Ross turnouts available.

Breaking it into elements is a good start as you can place these elements into the layout room. I would take the Highland branch and run that as a graded branch along a couple of walls and put the wye in the corner in a mountain through which the mainline would run.

For me, one of the main attractions of that layout is the fact that there is very little straight track on the entire railroad. The use of some sort of flex track is almost a necessity to re-create those broad curves and smooth transitions into the curves. Even with the widest curved sectional track available, it might be difficult to achieve the same feel. It's definitely one of those layouts that was easier to sketch on graph paper than to actually build, particularly with sectional track. 

Jim

There is going to be use of flex/ Probably gargraves.

The Woods Switch is inbound along with some track and such. Some kind folks here on these forums have provided sales, trades, knowledge etc. However, it is my hope to use this as a core between two future small additions that will truly be a railroad.

I will keep all posted.

Here's a Ross Track with Gargraves Flex track plan that's pretty close. Would need some tweeking, but not too bad...

-bruce

Bruce,

Very nice - captures the original very well - good space for access in the middle too.

Jim

You could begin by taking the drawing to a UPS store or someplace else where they have a Xerox machine that can blow up drawings.  Set magnification to 200 %.  After your drawing has been magnified then you can study it to adapt to Oscale.  Good luck.   Odd-d

Sometimes there are surprises in life. My wife has granted me 40 by 6 some feet to work with. I am going to have to unwrap this plan and just use what is necessary to turn trains around, probably 072/080 curves.

The trick is incorporating all the elements into a linear space. I am probably going to have a roundhouse and turntable etc in the middle and have woods on one end and put the wye on the other..

The challenge is the rights to the real estate is dependent on the curves and space used by the engine facility. The rest of it can be easily done on 2 feet or less shelf space in between.

PRR Bruce, I appreciate what you have done with your plan. Do you think if I "Cheated" and removed the wye and put a turn table in it's place (Having a total of two of them) should functionally be fine... But I am not sure if any one other than the WM Scenic Railroad used a end of line tt to make it happen.

The connection will then be made to "Rest of the world" Staging. I just have to go over the PRR/B&O Maps and find a suitable interchange point and go from there.

I will have to sit down, scrap everything for the older space that was on paper up until now and reconvert for the new space. It's not much however, it is a new beginning towards a future 16-20 by 40' space.

I am somewhat in a Limbo at the moment. I completed tests on the M100 and M101 switches as well as the Curved woods switch from Ross. They did well except with one very short RMT Geep that did not have any MU cables.

The recent delivery of the roundhouse and DCS systems from AM Hobbies was most welcome. However it was not long before I discovered the entire AM Hobbies store wiped clean on EBay.

I do hope things are going to be ok with AM Hobbies and the Family that maintains it. The best I can do at the moment is try to win some real track bids and continue onwards towards the layout construction.

I believe there are several other good hobby shops doing orders for various items to put everything together. It will take some time.

The only other consideration is to have one inbound line a B&O with a few Color CPL's until it reaches the Junction tower near the PRR yard (Interchange) and use Yellow PRR CPL's on the rest of the system.

Sometimes I get lost in the forest for the details and lose focus on the overall project. Those are the times when I will sit and contemplate my next move.

The best laid plans of mice and men...

I have decided to attempt a redesign of this plan using 042 and/or 054 while retaining the large 072 switches. It may be some time yet before I see the results. I was able to take the plan and "Unwrap it" to fit fully in the new space but have to give up the 072 curves to do so.

Just a small update for this month.

AGHRMatt's suggestion stayed with me for a time.

I made a change in favor of keeping things where I can understand it well. That meant going with Real trax. I did keep one of the large Ross and will build it in.

I am thinking to try and  use one 72 inch to climb out of the  center of the very long space and continue back along the wall about 30 feet. I think I can do a wye with 054 track and switches. And a turntable for the big stuff unable to use the wye. (Can someone show me a up to date functioning real trax program where I may experiment before putting cash down?)

It will essentially be out and back but am looking to cheat a little with a continuous run somewhere using the wye to disguise it.

Benchwork is probably going to be Mianne as a foundation. I don't know yet what to do with the plywood in my area. Thinking half inch Oak...

The plan's linear diagram gave me an idea. I broke up the important sections into LDE's (Layout Design Element or area)

The highland wye will go between two rooms while woods and laurel will remain in one room on a 5x9 with a escape track at one corner to run along two walls to get to the wye. The industries and such will go into the second room with a bit of staging as well.

The wye will fit nicely with the long side against the north wall where it has to bore through drywall to get to the other room. I will probably extend the design a little to include a long siding for meets with a tower to mind the whole thing.

The total space is 20 feet on my north wall and about 11.5 on my east wall. The south wall however is restrictive being about 7 feet. I have not decided what to do with the west wall, the best I can try is about 8 feet for staging beyond the mines etc.

I am already getting ready to give up the 72 inch switches and go down to 54 diameter to make things work a little better. Will have to think on it some more because the two rooms are multi use spaces.