More Pittman questions

The numbers & letters past the 4 digit Pittman part number are vendor specific codes pertaining to mounting threads, encoders, bearing type, etc, etc,  …..really doesn’t apply to us, …..I like the big ball bearing motors myself, but technically, it’s way overkill in our hobby….

Pat

Could you provide a link to the thread discussing the Pittman part numbering. I too have been wondering about this.

@Ryan Selvius posted:

Could you provide a link to the thread discussing the Pittman part numbering. I too have been wondering about this.

https://www.motiontech.com.au/...Catalogue-131023.pdf

more than you’ll ever want to know …..60 some pages worth ….

Pat

Now if they could just be afforded.

The quick history lesson, …..Charlie Pittman founded Pittman motors. ….selling DC motors to a host of consumer goods/needs ……Charlie himself was a model railroader, ……back in the day, and even up to the late 1980’s if you called Pittman, chances were good to get Charlie on the phone ……Pittman was eventually sold to Hayden Industries, and Hayden took Pittman to new levels,….expanding into the medical field ( big time ) with motors well renowned for such devices as dialysis machines, and surgical devices,…..one of the biggest customers is the elevator industry. Just about every elevator door set in the US has a pair of Pittman motors opening & closing the doors……ATM machines, the list goes on and on, …..then enter Ametek, who took Hayden Industries and Pittman with them,…..Ametek concentrated their interests in the aerospace & medical fields, ……as we all know, they literally priced themselves out of the hobby market 10 fold, and it was overnight, leaving our model mfr.’s to scramble for an economical solution,…..MTH went first to SPG motors out of Korea, and they basically made a Pittman knockoff, but eventually MTH settled on a Chinese knockoff more than likely due to a much lower cost. Lionel settled on using Cannon motors right out the gate, and it’s a so-so motor, with techs reporting failures here & there, …..So that’s it, ….yes, you can buy a new Pittman/Ametek motor, but be prepared for sticker shock,…..I priced one …..once ….I’m still looking for my lower jaw after it hit the floor,….

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Lionel settled on using Cannon motors right out the gate, and it’s a so-so motor, with techs reporting failures here & there, …..So that’s it, ….yes, you can buy a new Pittman/Ametek motor, but be prepared for sticker shock,…..I priced one …..once ….I’m still looking for my lower jaw after it hit the floor,….

I can report first hand multiple failures of Canon motors, and three of the four took the board with them!   IMO, they are junk!

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I can report first hand multiple failures of Canon motors, and three of the four took the board with them!   IMO, they are junk!

I agree 100% John, …..you & I were the first to sound the alarms,……when they get to clicking, you have about 5 seconds to shut her down before the big poof……you don’t get to hear the clicking sound, by the time it gets to your bench, the deed is already done ….

Pat

Pat, thanks for sharing the catalog and the history lesson.

Any idea what goes wrong in the Canon motos before they short and murder the electronics?

Maybe this should be a different thread. 

What is a good replacement for a 9433 for our purposes.  No looking for a $5 cheapie, but a good quality open frame replacement.

I found a used 9433 at a Meteorology Equipment supplier.  $1250, no thanks.  It did have a 90day warrenty though.  I'm not paying more for the motor than the model.  A high current DC decoder with the old 7 pole open frame is better than the above.

We have it, you want it - NOT.

@Ryan Selvius posted:

Pat, thanks for sharing the catalog and the history lesson.

Any idea what goes wrong in the Canon motos before they short and murder the electronics?

There’s a small plastic tang on the brush holder that’s very fragile, and can break. Then the brush arm can swing out and touch the case. ….

Pat

I finally cracked one open, and that's exactly what happened.  When the brush arm contacted the case (thus grounding it), it usually takes out the RCMC board, so you get to spend a lot more money than just a motor.

Hmm. I wonder if adding an in line fast blow fuse between the motor and electronics would be wise.