MTH Imperial Pennsy M1a

I abhor wire nuts in these engines, and I frequently remove them for my stuff.  I understand they do it so you can easily remove the trucks, etc. without soldering, but they're a very poor solution!

I do not think Wheaties are sold in CHina.  If they are, the workers probably can't afford them.

On a more serious vein, you're lucky that the bare wires didn't touch something and blow the board.

GRJ, what have you been replacing them with?  Heat-shrink tubing?

Usually, I just solder them and heat-shrink the joint.  It's more compact, it just is a bit more trouble if you have to take it apart.

Steam should not be an issue because there is no rotating truck.  I really have not seen this issue much.  G

Good evening everyone, I was somewhat surprised also when I found the wire nut and I agree if the wires would have came into contact with the shell things would not be good.

I realize that space is at a premium under the engine shell but I am surprised they don't use a plug in connector that is a feed back.

We use this style of connector on our drilling rigs and is made by Deutsch.

There just a little big for in a tight space.

I thought I would post this just in case it comes up again with someones else engine.

Thanks for the replies !!!!

Thanks for posting it, Mark.  Checking the tightness of wire nuts when a shell is off for another reason is now an item of routine maintenance.

Wire nuts don't take kindly to movement or vibration, which may be a reason why they are not to be used on recreational boats.

I think it all comes down to expense and time.  I will tell you on others manufactures were they are soldered a simple issue like dropping a truck to replace tires or grease can be come major events if the wires can't be easily disconnected.

For AC input short you would see that on your transformer almost immediately and that doesn't necessarily mean the board would be damaged.  Might melt insulation on those wires though.  G

Of course, if the bare connection from the pickup rollers were to touch a wire outputting from the board, it might not have enough amps to show up, but short and damage the board

Deutsch connectors are some of the greatest out there.  I have been using them for years in bikes.  I don't think they make anything small enough for train electronics.  I have also never had a problem with wire nuts.

One thing I have seen with this engine in particular is the bar crossing the rear of the trailing truck sometimes makes contact with the solder joints on the drawbar if the plastic tab is out of place.  I just cut out the bar and touch it up with paint.  

Dave

Dropping trucks on most of the stuff I work on isn't an issue, you just take the pickup screws out for the power connections.

Not all are that easy.  There are models with the screw not easily assessable from the top.  Also you than run the risk of damaging the insulation and causing a truck short.

Frankly I think this is a non issue.  We are not launching these trains to the moon.

Like Dave, I just not have seen this.  Maybe once in all the repairs I have done.

Now, I have traced down a dozen broken wire solder joints that caused trains not to run, or not run reliably.  I would rather have the wire nut than a broke solder joint under shrink wrap any day.  G

Hello Dave, I read your reply last night about the trailing truck on the MTH Imperial Pennsy M1.

I got home late this afternoon and I see what you mean about the solder joints.

The trailing truck would only have to travel upward about an 1/8" and it would make contact with the solder joints.

I looked and there is no plastic tab to help protect or insulate the solder joints from the trailing truck crossbar.

I take it you used a Rotary Tool to cut the cross piece out?

Thanks for the heads up on this.

When the MTH Imperial L1 Mikado ever shows up it may have the same problem.

Thanks again see you soon.

Mark,

When the MTH Imperial L1 Mikado ever shows up

It's on the water and is expected to make land fall on or about 2/1.

Good evening Barry, hope you are well.

Thats good news.

I talked to Mr.Wolf of MTH at the York show in October and he was guessing Christmas time 2014.

Just a few months late not the end of the world.

Thanks again for the update.

Have a good weekend.

Mark,

I just noticed on the RK Imperial Berks that there is a newly designed drawbar.  There should be no future problems like the one I described.

Dave

Good morning Dave, I was getting set up to cut the cross bar out of the trailing truck on the Pennsy M1 and I have a question.

What about the grounding strip that is attached to the crossbar and then resting on the trailing truck axle.

Can I just take this ground strip and leave it off?

Thanks in advance !!!

Mark, be wary of doing that.  I have a Imperial Decapod, which doesn't have a trailing truck.  Losing ground became a problem.  Had to cure it with a jumper wire from the grounding strip of the tender.

Hello RJR, i decided against cutting the crossbar out of the trailing truck.

I did take the Trailing truck off the engine chassis and took a piece of black heat shrink and slit the heat shrink length wise.

I slipped the heat shrink over the crossbar and did some trimming around the ground strip.

The little bit of over lap of the heat shrink I tucked itself underneath which was the hardest part.

I then took a roll of black tape and cut the black tape into thin strips while the tape was still on the roll.

I peeled the thin strips of tape off the roll and wrapped them around the heat shrink, one close to the ground strip and then one on each end.

I had to use tweezers to put the tape in place and hold the heat shrink.

With everything in place I took a hair dryer and slowly applied heat to the heat shrink tubing and let form around the crossbar.

Left the tape strips in place.

Seems to work, it will most defiantly keep the trailing truck crossbar from coming into contact with the solder joints.

Let you know if I have any other issues.