MTH loco in display case - headlight operation

It would help to know the exact model number of this locomotive. 

In general, if you simply set this on a chunk of track and apply power from a75W or larger transformer, you should get lights.  You may get smoke and sound as well, but you can turn those off.

Seems a shame to have this and not run it.

I had this engine awhile back. Its nice and heavy too! As gunrunner said, I agree. This has Proto sound 1. The QSI board. I would recommend locking it in neutral if its going to be on a shelf. That way you don't see it take off if your power company has one of those on,off and on power glitches. A 75 watt transformer can power this good by itself (No passenger cars) so if you  ever decide to just get a circle of O72 curves to set up when you can just to enjoy it for what its worth. You may trip the breaker on the transformer though if you use the smoke unit. But it will run on a 75 watt.

Probably not a bad idea to lock it in neutral, it would be shocking to see it come through the display case and land on the floor!   Since the locomotive isn't running, I'm pretty sure a 75W would run the smoke and lights.  Most of my PS/2 stuff only pulls about an amp or a bit more sitting idle with smoke, sound, and lights.

I would agree with the inexpensive 75 watt (possibly even a 50 watt) MTH transformer recommendations.  However, if you wish to display this locomotive and show off its features, I would seriously consider either creating or obtaining an operating roller base.

JAK Tools and Polk/Aristo offer the rollers and JAK also offers a completed base of various lengths that, in addition to the lights, could show off the movement of the wheels and side-rods of this engine.

http://www.jaktool.com/Dynamic-Running-Base

Lastly, I would replace the battery with a BCR to prevent potential memory chip issues.

should the bulb expire."

This suggests the headlight is directly attached to track power.  So one idea is to see if you can disconnect the electronics (motor/sound/smoke) board(s) and have the wheels/center-roller power just the headlight.  Then you could use a low-cost AC wall adapter of suitable voltage - possibly even a DC output adapter you might already have if just driving a bulb.

Another idea is to insert a warm-white LED in place of the "easily removed" incandescent bulb.  Sometimes it can be inconvenient or unsightly to run power wiring to a display case on a shelf.  If you power just an LED headlight you'd need less than 1/10th a Watt of power and a small battery pack would be sufficient for tens of hours of operation.  You could even add a 2nd LED to illuminate the cab if there's anything to see.

Stefan,

Keystone said it best in his recommendation for a JAK Tool Running Base with a plastic case. This is a beauty of engine and you can show off it's lights, running gear, whistle and bells by just hooking up your power supply to the Dynamic Running Base. The locomotive will run on the base and you will have no worries about any problems. I have several and they really work well to show off the mechanics of an engine without having space for a layout.

Mega-Steam

www.megasteam.com

Try this link to the JAK website.

Price varies by length and track selection.

You need 3 rail track. 

Hi Folks!

I checked the JAK-Website. Well this special show cases is not a bargain, but worth it, and maybe this is a good compromise and thus I can enjoy all the functions of the T1...

Again thank you all for your help.

Regards, Stefan

Stefan,

Here is a quote. These are high-quality and built to last a lifetime:

Roller base & Case ~ 350.  Freight @ $100 est (Duties & Customs Unpaid)

     Jeff Kinsberg

     President

     JAKTOOL

     (609) 664-2451 x 101

     www.jaktool.com

Besides needing to periodically oil and grease a locomotive running in a small closed acrylic display case like the ones available from JAX, is heat buildup on the electronic boards also a concern for a continually running engine? How many hours of constant running would be okay flor a steam engine without damaging it? Would enjoy hearing everyone's thoughts on this. 

Well, clearly you couldn't run smoke in a closed case, so that's out.  As for heat buildup, I'd have to consider some way to provide ventilation for the case, as you'd certainly be getting pretty warm in there.  Perhaps they've thought of this and have provisions for a small fan in the base with venting for the exhaust air?  If not, I'd consider doing that while it's running in there.

I'd probably have it setup on some kind of on-demand timer that would run it for an hour or so at the push of a button and then shutdown.  That way you could fire it up for display, but not have it running for hours on end.

Yep, I'm sure the cover comes right off.   In that case, heat buildup isn't a factor.

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO MODIFY THIS Engine.

As a PS-1 the engine picks up power and has a CV Board already in the engine to operate all the engine lights.  There is a switch under the cab to turn off the smoke.

DO NOT plug the harness in the engine.  Leave it unplugged and push it into the tender.  This prevents the tender from being powered up, and will prevent the motor from turning.

Now all you need to do is power the display track with a transformer that can provide one amp at 10-15VAC.  A small transformer that can plug into the wall would work fine.

If you wanted the additional of sounds, you could open the tender and unplug the white and yellow motor wires under the board.  Then reassemble and plug harness into engine.  Now you would have sounds and lights, but you might get tired of the idle sounds.   G

I would imagine the cover comes right off, otherwise how would you get the engine in the case in the first place?   

Hacksaw?

If you are going to run smoke perhaps the ventilation system could be designed to run air from the front to back over the top of the engine.  Then the smoke puffs would flow backwards and enhance the illusion of motion.