Stan, I finally talked to Dick Caster, as he called me back yesterday morning before I was out of cell phone range. I'll try to repeat the short conversation as best as I can. I related that his instructions on downloading a new sound files, fixing the six jerky engines. I also related that one engine, after changing the traction tires went back to a jerky engine. My first question: What does the sound file, on the new download affect? Is it a circuit card?, tach reader? or what? Should I try and put the engine into Cruise? What circuit card should I be changing? He stated that after a download of a new sound file, the engine now "listens on a different frequency" My next question: Well, how come the one engine that had the traction tires changed, went back to a jerky engine? Have you checked the engine rollers? he asked.
Yes, I have cleaned rollers, cleaned wheels, clean track, I said. He said, I really don't know, but it sounds like a signal issue. End of conversation.
Implied, but not stated, that jerky engines were a routine repair using a new sound file download and that after the engine was returned to the owner, it wasn't sent back to MTH , for the same problem, later.
I lost all yesterday and most of today to other distractions that I had to complete. My next step is to send an engine around the entire layout under the control of TIU 5's and check signal strength on each power block. If I find a low signal under "4", try just one of those areas with a 12 ga. wire in lieu of the present 14 ga. wire on a 60' run. Retest signal strength. If it improves, move to other areas that have long runs of 14 ga. wire. After achieving an acceptable signal strength on each block of track, make a lash-up, with the engines about 3 feet apart. Send lash-up around the entire 400' loop. Also, try and get the current jerky engine into cruise and observe performance.
Comments welcomed, as I won't start that project until Saturday.
Thanks again for the help. Moke Mike
Originally Posted by stan2004:
Mike, I'm not sure there's much to narrate. That is, the PS2 (3V) board set pair has a smaller board on top (in the video). This is sometimes referred to as the power supply board; it also happens to have a key part tach sensor IC. The larger board on the bottom (in the video) is referred to as the processor, digital, or logic board and has most everything else on it (sound, lights, motor, smoke). As shown, the two boards separate. You can plug a top board into a different bottom board in the event you want to further isolate which board is bad if such is the case.
And absolutely use some kind of wrist grounding strap if you can! My intent was to make working with these boards seem less intimidating and perhaps I went a bit overboard! Anyway, there are lots of folks here who are willing to help out and get to the bottom of this. I'm very curious about the next chapter in the novel of why your MU setups are failing.