My ERR install in my American Flyer SD9 diesel "video"

Chris,

Thank you for the video, these new ERR sound boards are head and shoulders above what they supplied just a few years back, and the Cruise Lite makes life easier for Flyonel fans in most all of the Flyonel conventional offerings. I would like to see if the new Baldwins are heavy enough to use these boards without the weight that we need in the Gilbert engines. If so that would be my next project, as if I need to add one.

Ray

Nice.  What vintage SD-9?

Brendan

Not exactly sure I think around 2005 it may have came out. It has a can motor with a flywheel.

Brendan posted:

Nice.  What vintage SD-9?

Brendan

The "American Flyer Trains" SD-9 (6-48065) was cataloged in 2007.

Thanks Craig. I thought it was somewhere in that neighborhood. 

Thanks guys.  I wonder if my 80s GP-20 would be as smooth without the flywheel after a conversion.

Brendan

Brendan, 

You need to know if your locomotive has an open frame motor or a can motor. Some of the early models of the Lionel American Flyer engines did have the old style open frame motors

If it does have the can motor the performance can be greatly improved using the ERR Cruise-Lite when operating on Legacy/TMCC

RAY

Thanks Ray, it's a can.  No flywheel, though.  I think I'm going to try it.  

Brendan

Brendan posted:

Thanks Ray, it's a can.  No flywheel, though.  I think I'm going to try it.  

Brendan

Go for it. I think you'll see a big improvement.

Brendan,

I agree with Chris "Go for it", I did the upgrade on a number of my GPs. The best result was using the Cruise -Light. I previously had  done several other conversions of the GPs using the Mini-2, which gave me the TMCC capability, but lacked the ability to build a consist and have all of the effects available such as the Rail Sounds horn and bell and the reversing headlights. The Cruise-Lite overcame all of that and fits into our S gauge diesels. 

I do need to mention the lack of these capabilities on the  Mini-2s is experienced using the Cab1-L Legacy.

Brendan, just make sure as you prepare to do the conversion to have an anti-static mat to work on.

Ray

It may be overkill but I used a mat and an anti-static wrist strap. 

Not overkill at all Chris, that is exactly what you should be doing

Ray

Belt AND suspenders!  I do small electronic repair and have a grounding lug built into the bench.  I am going to start the conversion tonight.

Brendan

Please take pictures along the way !   Thanks, Art

No problem.  Took it apart; just waiting for the board.  I am not doing sound yet, I'll wait and see how it runs.  

Brendan 

Not sure what problems you were having with the Mini II but when I do the installs it has the reverse light, whistle and horn and no problems setting them up in a consist. I  was running them with both a CAB-1 and Legacy but did not try it CAB1-L.

Ed

www.goldinhands.com

Ed,

The problem is with the Cab 1L.  Jon from ERR had replied to me that it is a problem that exists with something I believe in the code of Cab 1L. At the time he was not working to resolve it but did talk about not leaving me hanging. I just have not followed up with him on it yet.

Thank you Ed for the reply

Ray

Ray, I kind of thought it was a problem with the CAB-1L. I know Jon is extremely busy with other projects so not sure when he will get to it. At least you got it to work with the cruise Lites.

Ed

Ed,

At the present time I have only replaced only one of the Mini 2s with the Cruise Lites, that be my cure. I don't know though if I want to invest in the C-Ls and have the Mini-2 laying around to collect dust. I have done these installations with Mini-2 before the price reduction to $40.00, if I do the Cruise-Lite now these conversions not including sound would be in the neighborhood of $140.00 each.

Ray

Chris, don't know if you are going to do anymore conversion or if you have or plan to have any Legacy engines, but maybe you should look into upgrading to a Legacy system and sell the old CAB1-L. You can find them on Ebay just make sure you get one with the current upgrade. Ed

Ed posted:

Chris, don't know if you are going to do anymore conversion or if you have or plan to have any Legacy engines, but maybe you should look into upgrading to a Legacy system and sell the old CAB1-L. You can find them on Ebay just make sure you get one with the current upgrade. Ed

I already own a Legacy system and I have O scale Legacy engines now. 

My GP20 project has been sidelined by cracked gears.  I need to replace those first.

Brendan

I replaced the gears and it still surges.  I decided to put the board an EP-5 i have.  

I gutted the reverser and horn circuit boards. I wired it temporarily to make sure the motor was wired properly for forward/reverse.  If it is wrong, just swap the motor wires.

Once everything was correct, I soldered and heat shrunk all connections

I usually glue a 1/8" plastic tube to the roof to hold the antenna. 

Brendan

Did your EP-5 come with a can motor or did you convert it?  I like them, but would only buy one if I knew I could put a cruise lite in it without a major project to convert the motor.

Nice job on the EP-5.............Sns Trains does the conversion from AC to DC can motors and I think they are $80.00 for a single motor and $120.00 for dual. I have installed a few of the conversions and don't remember anything major that had to be done kind of an easy install.

The last produced EP5 NH 48075 in 2008/9 had 2 vertical can motors and is probably the best puller. The previous EP5's 48010 Milw 1992, 48008 NH 1991, 48038 GN 2004/5, had the horizontal can motor mounted to the modified original Gilbert style cast truck assembly. All should be good candidates for a TMCC conversion.

Chuck K posted:

Did your EP-5 come with a can motor or did you convert it?  I like them, but would only buy one if I knew I could put a cruise lite in it without a major project to convert the motor.

As Rich stated, the can motor was original on mine, a 1992 MILW.  The single motor ones are the easiest conversions since they have a lot of room for the TMCC board.  It also already had two switches on it for the horn and reverser lockout which can be used for the run/program switch.  The whole process took less than an hour.  Next, I would like to find a decent horn and LEDs.

Brendan

I replaced the gears and it still surges.  

Brendan,  I have read on OGR that some of the earlier Flyonel GPs do have a problem with the gears binding which may cause the surging you are experiencing. These are the GPs with the flat sided can motor mounted horizontally on the power truck.  Check the gears on this engine and make sure that you do have a small amount of backlash between the motor gear and the gear on the worm shaft. You might have to shim the motor a slight amount to raise it and free up the mesh.

Ray

I'll try that.  Thanks Ray.  

Brendan 

I added a 010 shim; no improvement.  Here is a video of the surging.

That is definitely a binding situation.  Have you opened up the truck to look at the worm and the worm gears, possible dried up grease on those elements or a bent axle or bent worm shaft. I have found some of these to have grease that dried and caused some binding. I cleaned it out and replaced with Red & Sticky.

Ray

I replaced the worm gears since they were cracked and cleaned and greased everything while in there.  Made sure to line up the worm gears so they don't fight each other.  Wheels spun freely while spinning the motor gear by hand.

Brendan

Brendan posted:

I replaced the worm gears since they were cracked and cleaned and greased everything while in there.  Made sure to line up the worm gears so they don't fight each other.  Wheels spun freely while spinning the motor gear by hand.

Brendan

Brendon,

Just wondering if you found anything on this engine causing the surging I saw on your video?

Ray

Funny you should post, I was just searching the web for a motor.  No luck, yet.

Brendan

Brendan, if you don't have any luck on eBay, I think I have a few of those motors in my parts stash.  Any way you could post some pics of the motor, especially of the end of it with the gear removed?  I need to confirm the location of the mounting screw holes.

Dean

Actually, it may be the opposite end of the motor that has the screw mounting hole.  I can't recall and I am at work right now so I can't check it.  Better posts pics of both ends.

Dean

Thanks Dean.  The non-gear end has the mounting hole.

Brendan

OK Brendan, I'll check later tonight, but I'm pretty sure I have one.  I'll let you know for sure.

Dean

Brendan, found it.  Here are a few pics.  If you want it send me your address and I'll put it in the mail to you today.  My email address is in my profile information.  I paid $10 each for these and it looks like First Class postage is under $2 from Virginia to Illinois, so $12 should cover it.  Dean