My wknd project - 1st Pilot Fixing

Martin,

 

Looks great, good job

 

I'm not sure what you're doing to the handrails, can you explain?

 

I've never liked the way handrails look around the steps, but after looking at some prototypical photos, they're not too far off when it comes to the fixing of them to the area of the steps.  I think the bends on most models could be more precise (so they don't stick out in the middle of the steps like some I've seen), but I haven't taken the time to do any new handrails yet.

 

Once you start operating with Kadees you'll be wanting to jump in and convert everything, I just got thru running trains and setting out/picking up cars at my downtown freight facility, slowly coupling and uncoupling the Kadees (I use a plastic TV tuning wand) and it's pure joy to not have to slam things together or pick the car up to uncouple.

Ok first mistake is the coupler won't allow install of snowplow.  That's annoying because now I have to drill differen hole throught the metal to move it further forward

Bob,  look at this prototype photo.  The inside handrail attached way too low on the MTH model.  This will be a significant correction when I'm done.

 

 

You can get long shank Kadee's ?

Spacer looks good Martin. You can use the long shank coupler, but when I did it, I didn't like the looks because it just stuck out too far. I ending up using the 740 and cutting off the trip pin. I used the 740's on all my Dash 8's and Dash 9's even with the snow plow on.

Martin,

 

That looks very, very good. A good rule of thumb I've found is have the Kadee knuckle hinge line up with the front of the anti-climber on contemporary diesels. That will clear the plow and usually give enough clearance in comparatively tight three-rails scale turns. If you don't use the extended shank coupler, it means the draft gear box extending past the pilot, a little, but I don't find it looks too objectionable.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Rich.  That's probably what I'll do too.

Martin,

 

Looks like it's too low on the upper end and too short on the lower end .

 

Down here in the Norfolk area, I don't know if I've ever seen a NS engine with a snowplow, the most snow we get might be 14" about once/decade (of course I haven't looked too hard for snowplows lately either).

Ok, so I didn't get completely finished with this weekend project.  However, I did get front and back pilots fixed and kadee couplers installed.  I had to move the front coupler forward to clear the snow plow, and I had to reposition the snowplow closer to the loco frame because the snow plow was causing attached rolling stock to decouple.

 

I only got 2 of the 8 handrails replaced, but I am especially satisfied with how the long one turned out.  And the color match I got at the hobby store was very good.

 

Hopefully I can finish the rest this week at night.

 

(Click on the pic below to make it a little bigger)

 

 

Martin, that looks great!! Huge improvement over the larger couplers and swinging pilots!

Looks good. What wire did you use for the new handrails?

Okay...the rest of you know...but, I don't.  What/how do you "fix" the pilots?  Granted I have not looked closely at this...but what gets "cut" and then how do you re-affix it to the main body of the locomotive.

 

How about a few photos of that process?   Maybe I am asking too much...rather than figure it out myself...but, why re-invent a wheel?

 

Thanks for any kind response.

Every engine is different as to where and what to cut, how thick the spacer is, how you attach the pilot to the frame, how you build the coupler mounting pad etc etc etc. I have posted a couple different threads on fixing pilots, and several other members as well. Most of the effort is spent fitting the pieces and getting the proper height.

Larry- for the most part, MTH engines require a 4mm spacer, which I've found that Evergreen styrene makes these in the 3 diffeent widths you need. Just cut to length. The pilot need to be cut off as close to the back of the edge as possible to avoid the truck "catching" on it.

 

You will then need to make a template for where the screw holes are in the diesel shell, so you can attach the pilot. The tricky part is drilling these diecast pilots with a drill- I use high-speed bits that are diamond tipped and work very well.

 

Once you're this far you can see how to make it fit on. I also use CA glue to help reinforce all connections.

So much for weekend projects, LOL!  I just finished this last night after 7 more months!

 

I decided to drop the thicker wire like was originally on this model and go with skinnier wire that looks prototypical. 

 

This was my first pilot fixing.  My second was the ac4400cw (difficult to do, as Jeff had mentioned.)  I don't want to do anymore!  I'm going to buy fixed pilot PS3 versions from now on!

Martin, The NS SD70M looks fantastic!  I like the handrails turned out. 

Good morning Martin

 

That turned out great. I did six SD40-2 this winter didn't do the hand rails yet, have to get ready for open house on the 26th&27. I would really like to see the fixed pilot option on all premier line.

Clem

Blissfield Railroad Days' Events - Blissfield Main Street

Martin....your project turned out great.  It does look much better....

 

Alan

Very nice, Martin. The thinner wire was a good choice. I hear you about the seven months. I just finished up another Atlas project I started on well over a year ago and worked on off and on. It is just a hobby, though.

 

RM