Need brass repair in DFW

Can't help with a reference but while I generally frown on using epoxy to repair brass, in this case it might be worth a try as the paint appears to be intact. You risk discoloring the paint and emblem by soldering and could make the repair much more difficult and expensive.

Pete

I agree with Pete on this one. All that's needed is a little epoxy on the inside.

If you don't feel comfortable with the epoxy, I would try to reach Roger Lewis.  He is a Key Model Imports dealer in the Dallas area.  He owns Wasatch Models.  

His screen name for the forum is spiltwindow and his email address is listed in his profile.  He also has a website.  This is the new web address:    

http://63splitwindow0.tripod.com/id4.html 

I would think he could provide you with someone he felt comfortable.

BTW Looks like a beautiful engine!

Thank you Pete, Pappy, and Howard. Much appreciated. Given my lack of mechanical skill, I have an e-mail in to Roger Lewis for a pro repair referral. Pretty sure that if I tried an epoxy repair myself, I would end up with an E-7 glued to my right hand for a few weeks.

Unless that shadow is a dent, it doesn't look like shipping damage; more like the door fell off its hinges.  If so, your best bet is the epoxy trick, done from inside with a strip of reinforcing cloth.  You can see if this would work by just taping it.

There is nobody who has mastered the art of soldering without messing up paint - at best the paint will discolor within about an eighth of an inch of where heat was applied.  Then you are going to have to pay a painter - maybe not the same guy as the solderer. At some point, it is cheaper to eBay this one and buy a new one. Skilled model makers who work for six bucks an hour are becoming increasingly scarce.

Opinion.

JB Weld, two part epoxy. Sunset models recommended it for brass repairs. I've used it on a number of occasions and it is easy to use and works very well.

Hello guys and gals.............

I bought my Sunset 3rd S.F.5011 class from Scott Mann and it has poor soldering done on the front end cow catcher (slightly tilted down) someone did a bad job on the soldering repair and so I used JB weld epoxy to make it stronger from the underside of it.  The JB weld is good stuff.  I am trying to live with it since we bought it in 2012.

 I have seen the picture of the door of your E-7, you CAN put some JB weld in INSIDE the shell to epoxy the door shut and it will look ok if you're careful.  This repair is much easier than what I had to do to repair the cow catcher of my S.F.5011. 

Tiffany

I used JB Weld and fiberglas cloth to fix a cracked toilet tank.  Two years later, no leakee.  Harmon tells me he glued a tractor casting back together with the stuff.

Once the door is in position, any old cloth saturated with JB Quik will do it.  If you are careful, you can do the initial securing with super glue.  Just don't get it anywhere where it can seep outside.

I assume Roger will recommend Gary S. because of his talent and close association with Key.

If it were my model the first thing I would do is remove the shell and inspect damage from the inside.  Then, if possible, I would restore the door to it's original location.  Once in place you can make a better determination for a repair.

All the suggestions I've seen, so far, make sense.

Jay

This is an opening door on the nose of this model. If you don't care if it opens it will be much easier to repair. If you want an opening door then it needs to be reattached to the hinge mechanism.

But, as Jay and others have said, if you don't look inside, you don't know what you have. Removing a shell is not difficult and could be as simple as removing 4 to 6 screws. The chassis, motor and trucks lift right out of the shell if it is sitting upside down. Make a cradle out of something (foam, cloth between some supports) so you don't mar the paint or damage any roof details. A very simple and good start to learning about your brass models. 

butch

Good advice here - opening up an expensive brass model is a bit nerve racking the first time, but after a few times, it'll be old hat.  For me, this is becoming a very enjoyable part of the hobby.

We have a 2 rail club in Dallas. DFW O Scale. We have brass "experts" who would be glad to help you. Contact me.  ss124@sbcglobal.net

Stan

What's the possibility that the door is suppose to open and close??? If that is the problem.   I have models that do that.