NEED HELP WITH N&W Y6B !!!!!!

Unless -I'm- missing something in your question or the photo, you would remove the 

hex screw in the #1 driver (seen below the crosshead guide) with a small wrench (not

pliers) remove (cut) the old tire off if you have not already done so, slip the new one

up under the side rod and, using small screwdriver/tweezers/much cursing fiddle the

tire top to bottom or bottom to top into the slot. 

 

This is a pain in the locomotive; tires should only be put on the

#4 (in this case) drivers for easy replacement.

 

I don't have one of these Y6's, but here's the true correct way to do it: if the loco has tires on the #4 drivers - most modern locos have only that, in my experience - simply leave the one's you are talking about off, forever. They are not needed, their absence is not really visible (and so what?) and you will not hurt a single thing.

After looking at the photograph, and if I am correct in that the connecting rod is split at the second driver, then it may be easier to remove the not on the second driver and then swing the front section of the rod down so that you can slip the new tyre over it. This may be easier than trying to remove the nut on the first driver.

D500 I can loosen the screw up to a certain point and it hits the side rods and linkage

It needs to be loosened more but it can't be. I work on Lionel engines all week long but this is the first time I'm working on a Y6B. I'm upgrading the smoke unit and I was fixing a broken chuff switch wire and I noticed the engine had no rear traction tires on it. So I thought I would replace them. I can take apart the engine pretty easy but I don't want to go through that if I don't have too. I thought I was missing something but I guess I will have to take the engine apart.

 

Thanks for your help, Alex

HI Nicole,

 

It looks like the side rod is in two pieces but it's not here's another photo showing all the drivers. What's bugging me is I had the whole engine apart already and I noticed there was no traction tires after I put it back together.

 

 

Alex

 

Hi Alex,

Sorry that I wasn't much help. But in looking at the second photograph, it still may be easier to remove the other nuts and slip the new tyre along the entire rod than it may be to remove the awkward first nut. I wish you good luck in solving this one.

for what it is worth and having experienced the same problem, including loosing a screw while I had the engine upside down, I would STRONGLY suggest you find a service/repair dealer and let them do the tire change! Short of that, the next thing to do is find the idiot that designed the **** thing in the 1st place( I think he was in charge of placing oil filters on vehicles) and severely hurting him! Logic would dictate the tire be put on the REAR driver and replacing them would be quite easy! Hey, call Mike Reagan at Lionel and ask him!

Thanks D500, Nicole, and paperboys for your input and info.

 

Nicole I think you are right, I will take off the other nuts and slip the tire along the side rod and then stretch the tire over the driver.

 

Paperboys I agree with you, this is a bad design. The traction tire belongs on the last driver.

 

Thanks again, Alex

Wasn't there a hex head wrench that came with the engine? Many Lionel steamers came with one. It looks like a chrome rod with a recessed hex fitting  on one end. If you don't have one get a set of hex sockets and find one that fits. It will probably work on MTH engines as well. Also, remove the adjacent brake shoe which is attached with a small phillips head screw. Use toothpicks to position the new tire and these won't scratch any paint if it slips. Be patient. If you don't have the exact replacement tire choose one from another engine with the same or slightly smaller drive wheel size. Also, carefully clean out the groove where the tire resides.

 

Who would ever put the rubber tire there under the steam chest as opposed to the rear driver? What a poor design! Are both sets of drivers the same way?  Can you loosen the rod and rotate it enough to get the tire just on the front driver?

Just rom looking at this I would try loosing those two black screws underneith and letting the wheel chassie assembly drop just enough to be able to get to and remove the screw holding the driver on.  Then replace the tire as usual.

If the hex head screw is partially hidden by the cross head guide then I would get a set of small good quality open end wrenches and carefully remove only the one hex headed screw. This will allow you to slip the new tire over the driver. Then position and stretch it with toothpicks to get in place. Don't use a pliers on the hex head screws. This will damage their appearance and may round them off. Be sure and remove the brake shoe hanger which is right behind the lower edge of the driver. And, take your time!

Thanks to all for all of your info and input, I will work on it tomorrow

 

 

Thanks, Alex

Alex,

Quit foolin around with that engine and get back to working on structures. LOL

 

Alan Graziano

Good one Alan, you're right I have 4 structures sitting waiting to be built. lol

 

Alex

Alex, I once owned a Y6b and cracked the case on how to change those tires. In your photo you'll see 2 screws under the engine in front of those drivers. I know this sounds crazy but loosen those 2 screws and that will allow the driver to drop down far enough to get the screw out. After you do it once its actually a snap to change tires!

Alex,

 I have this engine. I dropped the rear  axle/wheels slightly to get the traction tires on. Its not for the faint of hearted.

If your going to get into this , find a clean spot with lots of room. There are tiny springs under each axle .Each axle ride in squares that sit down in slots on the tiny springs.

 

Stupid design

If you are really careful you ll only have to lift the rear axle a tiny bit to get that screw out hiding behind the crank and rods.

Thanks Patrick and N&W 1218, I knew a few of you guys would have this engine and know the simple way of changing the tires. Again Patrick and N&W 1218 thank you very much

 

Alex

I have this problem with alot of 3-rail steamers. I solved the problem. I now buy only 2-rail and I don't have to ever worry about this again!

I went nuts changing tires on a PRR S-2 duplex once.  Never again - next time the big steamers go to service center as mentioned above.

Alex

 

I have replaced this tire on the JLC Y6b . The job is a bear. You seem to have the rod screw in the right place so that when you trmove it, you can get the tire under the rod to slip onto the driver. The problem is trying to stretch it around the driver in the confined work area.

 

What I found that helped was a second person using  two small crew drivers to hold the tire against the upper part of the driver once you have it on there while i used two more screwdrivers to stretch the tire into position to slip on the bottom. Dental pics might make this task easier. Be Patient as you work on this. Its not going to be easy but a slow and steady approach will get it done. Good luck

Alex in has been a while since i did it. Not saying this is the only way to do it just i do remember that bolt does not come out unless you want to damage the rod.I mentioned earlier Rear axle  but meant front axle on rear drivers. If you are replacing the tires on the rear drivers, this is how i remember doing it........

 

I layed the engine on its back and took out 5 screws  to remove the "guard" that holds the   axles down.The 2 screws in the picture,2 oppisite side and one in the middle. (all same size)There are 2 deep wells on the rear drivers with screws,do not remove these,they hold the motor in place.

 

 

 

With engine still on its back -After removing the guard that holds the axles down Carefully lift the ONE axle (the one with the screw in it in the pic) up just enough to clear the rod and  loosen the screw that goes through the wheel.

If you lift it up to much you will see the copper squares at each side of the axles will come out of their slots. These copper squares that the axles are attatched ride up in down in a slot. At the bottom(because the engine is upside down) of them slots are tiny springs.If you lose one of them your bummin. 

Again if you only lift the front axle up enough to  get the screw out, you wont have to worry about re seating the springs and then axles.

I dont think you needed to take off the shell.

 

If it were my engine I would try unscrewing the eccentric crank and valve gear, pull the piston rod assembly out of the guides and rotate the wheel  (three or nine o'clock position) to position the screw between the valve gear guides to gain access to the screw so the nut driver could reach in. might work, might not.

I have the MTH N&W Y6b and just run it without the tires.  Been going fine for over a year without problems.  Of course if doing any serious hill climbing then you would need the tires.  But my layout is flat with just a smal curving rise/fall and engine negotiates it without problem.

 

Your milage may vary as they say.