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Well, it was fun while it lasted but my WBB GP30 quit running tonight. It was going great until I decided to reverse it. Then... nothing. I think it's a connection problem, not a dead board because sometimes it will try to fire up but it won't move. When I took it off the track for a closer look I noticed one of the truck side frames is very loose. Pretty sure this is what's causing the problem but I can't see any obvious way to tighten it (middle going on old age eyeballs...). Anyone know how to tighten the side frames? I'd really prefer to fix this myself instead of sending it off for warranty work.

 

Thanks,

Ken

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Ken:

 

I have two of the WBB GP-30's and will be happy to take a look at mine when I get home from work this evening.

 

Just a suggestion but, you would probably receive a quicker response to your question if you also posted it over on the Bachmann "Ask the Bach Man Forum".  They have a special category for Williams and one of their tech folks could probably answer your question pretty quickly.

 

Curt

The GP30 is the one WbB loco I don't have....but a loose truck sideframe should not be able to cause a short on 3 rail O.  In the past WbB O 3 rail the center rail roller is insulated from the truck but the rest of the truck is used to pick up power from outside rails. I'd take off the body shell and check for wires from the center rollers to the DCU board.  If they are loose or bare and shorting on the chassis that may be the issue.

 

To correct the truck issue the truck should drop down after the screw in the bottom center is removed. Then there should be 2 screws on the top of the truck that attach to the truck frame.

 

I've rebuilt many a WbB locos and never have hit a real problem I couldn't fix....they are pretty basic. Good luck!

The same thing happened to me last week with my brand new WbB E-7 B&O diesel.  Was running just great, then put her in reverse - she just sat there buzzing - then the transformer circuit breaker shut it down.

 

I thought, maybe, one of the gears was stuck, but I could turn the flywheels inside the shell and the wheels turned with no problem - so not mechanical as far as I could see.

 

I sent that sucker back to Bachmann on Monday - still waiting to hear back.

I have an SD-90 ALaskan , at Bachmann and their reply is 5 weeks

turn around time: mine was/is for the front screw , holds motor , in place,

I had it for 2 weeks, I think:  I guess , sometimes helps in sales,  cause

I did buy a Katy - SD-90,( Williams blow out)   and it has been going round and round,  smooth as can, be , my 5 weeks is up May 25, even new  cars will tear up, !!

Not a loose sideframe problem but:  I ordered a couple Williams locos totalling two powered and one unpowered:  6 trucks.  Four of the total six trucks arrived either loose or disconnected in the shipping.  My powered PA seemed OK, but when placed on the track it ran a moment and stopped, and would not reverse.  Problem was a loose screw holding the truck on - there is a big worm screw that meshes with the truck gears that take power to the wheels.  After reinstalling trucks and tightening all screws, all units running fine for 10 hours of cummulative running so far. 

Ken, I bet that is what is,  I just dont have the no how (wish I did), for what you

just described,  which was probably the same,  anyway $5.00 shipping, Warranty

coverage, and , my anticipation of hooking those things together , and  grab

every car I have, maybe some bricks, also  and see if those things will pull it !!!

They are STRONG !!!!  TOYS !!!  had to put that in !!

I too recently purchased a WBB GP30, only have a hour or so actual run time on it so far but have not experienced any of the problems mentioned above.  However; after reading this thread I plan to take it to the bench this weekend and give it a going over to inspect all the screws and such.  Does anyone know if there is a way to add an aux. power system to keep constant sounds when cycling from fwd, net, rev.?

I don't think that you can have auxilary power to a Williams as the electronic reverse board needs to go to zero volts, to the best of my knowledge. Somebody with electronic knowledge could tell you if it can be done without letting any voltage cycle back to the reverse circuit board. If any power goes to the reverse circuit board it stays in the Forward or Nuetral or Reverse position.

I did not say that your idea can't be done but I don't see how, Steve A.

 

FYI, WBB had a batch of bad circuit boards a few years back, not sure if the same problem is coming up again. The WBB circuit boards are made in China.

 

Lee Fritz

My, Alaskan, SD-90 , is back (from Bachman), and as stated, I 've got smooth double Wbb floor power under layout,  Oh!,  they beat their advertised,  5 wk turnaround:  4 weeks and 3 days,  You cant find hwy constructions crews that can match that deadline. wonder if they check, all the others and tightended if needed

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