New member Needs Help

center to center 4" you can get away with a bit less depending on how long the cars are.

The parallel track plan spaced the two loops to give you 4 1/2" centerlines. Looking at the picture John posted, it looks like the O-45 turnout needs to be repositioned. At that area, the outer loop should be O-36, and the inner loop should be O-45. I'll try to post a quick snapshot of what it should look like.

This is how this portion of the track plan should look. I'm leaving work and after taking care of house buying issues, will get back to you tonight.

The spacing will depend on what you're running.  Some of the stuff that runs on the tighter curves will have a significant overhang and will require more track spacing.  I see various figures tossed around, but the spacing is dependent on the equipment and the curves.

If you have an O36 curve with a longer locomotive like an Allegheny or Big Boy, you'll want more like 6" center-to-center between the tighter curves.

You might want to re-think the outer loop on the left leg. Remember, that is going to be tucked under your S gauge line. If you do keep that track configuration, ensure you create an access hole and that when it parallels the inner loop, you have the proper spacing.

Start on the left side and create the reverse loop. The distance between the center rails of both loops will be 9".

Continue to the front of the table.

Continue along into the right leg of the layout.

Finish up by connecting the inner loop and then completing the siding. A 40" section should cover all of your custom cut pieces.

After completing the inner loop and double checking the spacing between mainlines, don't do anything else to your layout (aside from running temporary wiring and running a train.) We need to address John's comment on your choice of engines. You cannot rush through this step, as once we continue, the only way to fix any problems later will be to tear apart the layout. You need to think about what you would like to run on your layout. Browse through the MTH catalogues and note which engines you would like to have in the future. If you choose one of the longer engines, I would recommend getting it before completing the lower level so you can make any adjustments.

Stewart:

I have all the track down, the switches are all working as they should (manually), the train runs fine on both loops. I won't be buying any more trains now, so I would like to proceed to the next step.

Steve

Steve,

Sorry, I've been busy all day. I'll have a wiring schematic for you sometime tomorrow.

In the meantime, did you get your TIU fixed? Also, will any of your engines be running in conventional mode?

Can't wait to see some updated pictures!

Stewart:

I've discovered that fixed #2 does not work unless fixed #1 has power. So, yes it's working. I spent the day trying to figure out how to wire one of my Atlas turnouts so it will work with both the switch it came with, and the DCS. I did it.

Steve

Well, yes, the TIU has to have power!   You can power it from the aux power port and not have power on Fixed #1, and there are some advantages to aux power.

Stewart:

I will now have to buy some things, order others. This will keep me busy for a while. Also, I should explain that the layout is in my summer home in Georgia, where we leave in a few weeks to go back to Florida. I expect to get all the wiring done before I leave, but I expect to leave it at that until the Spring.

I might decide to build something small in Florida, but I'm not sure I have the space. Thank you so much for all the advice and assistance, and hopefully we can pick it up again in the Spring.

Steve

What do the N and R, at the levers end, stand for?

Normal Travel and Ruh-Roh, the train is diverging  (Ok, technically it's called Switch Normal and Switch Reverse.)

Logic Rail Technologies has a webpage that describes how CTC switches are used. For a really in depth reading, check out CTCParts.com.